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What RPM to ride at?


Devo220

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I have been reading a few forums and have noticed that when people are talking about riding and shifting, they are at alot higher rpm than

I drive. I usually stay around 3000 to 3500 rpm's is this too low?

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You are putting around... correct? You are lugging the engine, though you may not notice it. You are also building up carbon deposits on your pistons, cylinder heads and valve train. Get up into 4k to 5k and bike will love ya. Hit 7k sometimes too! :thumbsup:

 

Also, start living up to your tag line "ride it like you stole it" or remove it! :grin:

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I have been reading a few forums and have noticed that when people are talking about riding and shifting, they are at alot higher rpm than

I drive. I usually stay around 3000 to 3500 rpm's is this too low?

 

If the bike is responsive and feels good at that range, I would stick with it, but air it out a bit now and then... ie... hit 4k and higher...

 

Of course, I don't have that much experience on a bike... just know how mine feels... and I have noticed that the bike seems to feel tons better when I am running it in a lower gear than my friends on their Harley's and when I am winding up the rpm's a bit...

 

At first I thought lower rpm's would be better, but it really felt sluggish when I wanted to ease up a slope (not even a hill mind you) and thus I found myself down shifting and down shifting until the bike was super responsive to anything I wanted to do...

 

okies... within limits there... )))

 

oh... and don't hit 5th TOO early... but when you hit it... expect a ton of fun as the scenery flies by in your mirrors... )))

 

Regards -

-Bob

 

edit -- oh yeah... I ride a 2000 R1100RT --

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Twist it and rip it, 4000+ and live the boxer lifestyle!!! I'm talking like this because I just got done with a hot ride out in the country with the needle at 4000 and above....Sweeeeet!

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I am new to BMW's have been riding a Triumph Speed Triple and I always kept the r's up on that. With the boxer it seems like it is reving up too high, just not used to it I guess. If you say it is ok to run it up a little higher then let it be.

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I reckon that the gear shifts are so much smoother and a lot less clunky closer to 5,000rpm. Mine lurches and moans if I dawdle around at low revs when shifting.

 

Also, the better tuned they are (valves and throttle bodies) the better they feel at higher revs.

 

On the freeway (for my own safety), I can be booked for endangering myself at 2mph over the limit so I usually wander around at 3750rpm or so in 6th gear.

 

Linz :)

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I feel the bike is more responsive at higher revs (around 5K). Better acceleration and the added feature of engine braking. I only use 5th gear on low traffic slab riding (which I do not enjoy anyways) I guess I just feel more in control at higher revs---4.5K and up. I also agree with others that bikes need to hit the redline once in a while.

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These engines are quite oversquare (bore much greater than stroke); they therefore run much better if revved. As long as the engine oil is warmed up since the piston speed at high revs is not very high, the engine will neither be stressed by revving it nor will it wear excessively. As has been said, the gear change is much sweeter at higher revs (4,000+) and the stress on the gearbox input bearing will be less.

 

Regards

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My 99 R1100RT with pull ok above 3,000 RPM for tooling around type driving. if you want to ride with gusto, then 4,000 rpm and up is the better range with the meat of the power around 5,000 to 7,000 rpm (YRMV). And yes the R259 motor does like to rev, as it has been more than a few time that I have hit the rev limiter......and lets me know I am an out of practice old fart!

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On the flat running at 3000/3500 is fine but around 4k is the cruising "sweet spot" on the boxer motor and that is on both my R1100R and R1150RT :thumbsup:

 

RPM's north of that are all fine :clap:

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Max Torque 72.3 ft.lbs. @ 5500 RPM

Max Horsepower 95 hp @ 7250 RPM

 

This beast is designed to rev. The best fun is to be had between max torque and max power.

 

Andy

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In Arkansas one day I only shifted when it hit the rev limiter all day long. It was a blast and the bike seemed to love it. (04 RT) I was riding with a group of sport bikes .

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I rode just like you for a while when I first got my RT, the one day I startd really running it above 4000 and it was like I got a new bike. Lots more fun to be had above 4000 RPM.

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I am new to BMW's ... If you say it is ok to run it up a little higher then let it be.

 

Oilhead motors seem to like 4000 to 6000 RPM. Below 4000 or so, they are just not breathing well yet and above 5500 or so you run the risk of being "a risk to society".

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When I get home after a ride in the 5-6K range, I could swear than the bike seems to be perkier and all smiles, like a dog after playing frisbee.

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MrHondamatic
On the flat running at 3000/3500 is fine but around 4k is the cruising "sweet spot" on the boxer motor and that is on both my R1100R and R1150RT :thumbsup:

 

RPM's north of that are all fine :clap:

 

Same here, in fact I was riding through the RPM ranges this morning evaluating this. 4000 is a good slow cruising RPM, anything less and the engine labors some. I have found that anything below 55 mph two up causes me to drop a gear or two as speed decreases. The engine does not like to be lugged. The wife even mentioned a difference in smoothness, as she felt less vibration at 65-70, than she did at 60-65.

 

Just remember, running one at too high of RPM will lighten your wallet from time to time. Seems like the LEO's don't give a hoot about how much better the bike runs at higher RPM's. Felt damn fine to me though. ;)

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As has been said, the gear change is much sweeter at higher revs (4,000+) and the stress on the gearbox input bearing will be less.

Could you elaborate on input bearing stress?

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Seldon,

 

The point about placing undue stress on the gearbox input bearing is that, unlike a four cylinder engine, a big twin creates large pulses of power as each cylinder fires. These smoothe out as engine revs increase. Whilst there is a shock absorber on the gearbox input shaft I personally feel that not lugging the engine will give the gearbox an easier time. The transmission on these bikes is one of the main trouble spots. Apart from this, as others have said, the more you rev them the better they seem to go.

 

Regards

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Just remember, running one at too high of RPM will lighten your wallet from time to time. Seems like the LEO's don't give a hoot about how much better the bike runs at higher RPM's. Felt damn fine to me though. ;)

 

I was followed a few miles on back roads today after I had gotten a little into the speedometer... but I don't think he clocked me, thus he just gave me an escort close to home... and made me drop a gear to keep the revs up a bit... )))

 

Regards -

-Bob

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Clive Liddell

IMO some posters are missing the fact that the Boxer engines have a fairly flat torque curve and thus in normal everyday use (such as I use mine) can be used in a very relaxed manner while covering ground quite quickly. I find with my brisk riding that in built up areas I seldom reach 4000rpm wheras on the open road I am normally between 4 and 5000rpm.

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I have been reading a few forums and have noticed that when people are talking about riding and shifting, they are at alot higher rpm than

I drive. I usually stay around 3000 to 3500 rpm's is this too low?

No! if the bike isn't lugging, then it's OK.

It is also fine to spin the engine.

Whatever floats your boat....I for one don't like an engine screaming away unless I really am in the mood for it....but here's the thing - If you keep riding around with the engine revving fast, your fuel consumption will increase. If the engine COMFORTABLY pulls the gear you are in at 3500rpm then it will be more economical. However, if you are lugging the engine (even if it doesn't sound like it is), your fuel consuption will be worse.

Andy

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OK, yesterday is the first day I was able to check this out and I must say you guys driving at 4 to 5 thousand rpm's must be looking over your shoulders for the law all the time. At 4000 rpm in third gear I am doing 55, at 4000 in 4th gear I am doing 65, you get where I am going. You would have to be riding in 1st and 2nd gear winding the crap out of them to be riding anywhere but the freeway, to get 4&5 thousand rpm. I did find if I kept it down 1 gear and keep the r's up a little more it seemed to run better.

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OK, yesterday is the first day I was able to check this out and I must say you guys driving at 4 to 5 thousand rpm's must be looking over your shoulders for the law all the time. At 4000 rpm in third gear I am doing 55, at 4000 in 4th gear I am doing 65, you get where I am going. You would have to be riding in 1st and 2nd gear winding the crap out of them to be riding anywhere but the freeway, to get 4&5 thousand rpm. I did find if I kept it down 1 gear and keep the r's up a little more it seemed to run better.

 

Typically I am doing around 45 in third...

 

Your bike must be set up differently from mine... although in 5th I am cruising rather nicely on the freeway... )))

 

Regards -

-Bob

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Devo220,

Get out of the city and keep it above 4000 and report back! I would love to take you out for a ride in my area and see how big that smile would be after a run....

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I came to the Beemer from HD and it took me a while to "get it", but once I did the bike came to life. Running above 4000 I actualy get better milage and it sure is alot more fun.

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der Wanderer

A bit of a hijack: how much engine braking is right to use? I catch myself doing a lot of it across the entire rpm range... Bad?

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OK, yesterday is the first day I was able to check this out and I must say you guys driving at 4 to 5 thousand rpm's must be looking over your shoulders for the law all the time.

My usual technnique for getting on teh interstate is to run it up to the rev limiter in second, clutchless shift to third, run it to the rev limiter in third, then ... uhh ... start looking around for the heat. I figure I can always try the "accelerating to merge with traffic" excuse.

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You know, I remember when I was breaking in my R1100RT that it seemed to be taking FOREVER for the beast to loosen up. Then a someone (a BMW mechanic) told me to find a nice twisty road and to run the crap out of it. Just wind it up and then let it wind back down. I did as he said and wowee- he was right. So I did it a few more times and it got better and better and better. So yes, run it up a bit every now and then. I'm not talking about WFO all the time, but heck, it does like to have it's tail twisted at times!

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A bit of a hijack: how much engine braking is right to use? I catch myself doing a lot of it across the entire rpm range... Bad?

 

Engine braking is fine, won't hurt a thing. Use it, love the sound, then pound the gas again!!!

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Seldon,

 

The point about placing undue stress on the gearbox input bearing is that, unlike a four cylinder engine, a big twin creates large pulses of power as each cylinder fires. These smoothe out as engine revs increase. Whilst there is a shock absorber on the gearbox input shaft I personally feel that not lugging the engine will give the gearbox an easier time. The transmission on these bikes is one of the main trouble spots. Apart from this, as others have said, the more you rev them the better they seem to go.

 

Regards

OK, now I see what you mean. A boxer is not a Harley V-twin, and shouldn't be ridden like one. When I am moving, I rarely let the RPMs get below 3000, but also rarely find a need to go beyond 6000 -- although it's briefly entertaining when I do.

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I just recently started riding an RT after years of riding a Harley. I was finding it hard to get used to the sound of the engine reving so high. My solution was to wear a pair of earplugs, and just go by the feel of the engine through my hands. If everything felt smooth, then the engine must be in it's zone. That zone seems to be in the 3500 4000 range. I'd wear the earplugs for a different reason with the Harley.

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That zone seems to be in the 3500 4000 range.

That's OK for cruising. When you're accelerating, try blasting through 6K before you shift. It's a whole different bike.

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russell_bynum
That zone seems to be in the 3500 4000 range.

That's OK for cruising. When you're accelerating, try blasting through 6K before you shift. It's a whole different bike.

 

Yup.

 

One of the nice things about the RT is it's so heavy and underpowered that you can be completely hamfisted with it without getting into (much) trouble. If I pinned the throttle in 1st on my Tuono, I'd be on my ass before you could say "power band". On the RT, I'd get off the line with minimal throttle and minimal clutch slipping, then as soon as the clutch was out, just pin it. Shift just before the rev limiter. Repeat until you reach the desired speed. I hit the rev limiter on just about every ride and it saw redline leaving every intersection unless there was a LEO behind me. My RT is no longer my RT, but it's got over 100K on it and is still running like a stripe-assed ape. Ride it like you stole it.

 

In some ways it's more fun riding a slow bike hard than riding a fast bike and trying to keep it from getting away from you.

 

PS

This reminds me of a great thread from the days of yore...someone asked "How long can I ride at full throttle." And someone replied "About 2 hours and then you have to stop for gas." :thumbsup:

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