Can You Hear My Head Hitting The Wall?

[Bheckel169]

Doing a simple oil change on my R1200R yesterday and decided to look at the pressure release valve. No reason, just curious. Then, the S*** hit the fan. Because I have an engine guard on, I was having a hard time lining up the spring loaded release valve and tightened it all the way before I realized it was not lined up flush. It was crooked and when I stuck my finger in the hole I realized I just screwed up the threads (not on the valve but in the hole). I finally chased the valve back in and got it flush but the oil still weeps and this hummer is on "tight". So, I backed it out a little and put some plumbers tape in thinking I could stop the leak. No dice. This guy is weeping just a little but that's not acceptable and now I'm wondering what I do next before I have to take it in to some BMW service center and watch the dollars leave my wallet.

Any thoughts to stop the leak?

Bruce

[RodB]

How damaged are the threads? If you say - this hummer is on "tight", then I suppose that the threads are still in decent shape. I would then pay attention to the crush washer and the seating of said washer (both sides). This type of arrangement does not depend on the threads for sealing - that is the job of the washer/seal. However, if the threads are damaged/crooked the washer/seal will not be able to do its job. Maybe a new washer is all you need.

[Bheckel169]

It's on tight and flush and appears that the threads are still good but you have a good point and I was thinking of replacing the washer or adding a 2nd washer.

Bruce

[Satguy]

Are you referring to the cam chain tensioner by chance??

 

If so, probably a new crush washer would help along with chasing the threads in the head with a tap.. Will be hard to find the correct tap easily however, you may have to order one from a machine tool supplier.

 

then, there is always the dealer but they are not likely to have any better luck with a proper size tap either.

 

 

[RodB]

Adding a 2nd washer should not be needed. If 1 washer doesn't do the job; then adding x amount of washers will not help you. What is important is the integrity of the sealing seats and by association - the threads.

[RodB]

Hi Satguy,

I think he is actually talking about the lube pressure relief valve; I didn't know one existed until this thread started but I looked it up and yup there is one on the right side of the engine (set to relieve at 87PSI). That is another reason why he should not add any washers - it would affect the pressure setting.

By the way, I succeeded with my tranny overhaul, thank you for helping me out with your advice.

 

[Grumpy-ol-Fart]

I spent several years as a Cadillac technician in the late 80's when the Northstar engines came out. Because it was so easy to remove threads on the aluminum blocks, we were all trained on the proper way to use thread inserts, which became standard issue. In an oil passage, you can use a thread insert, along with loctite red thread sealant. If you can find an insert with the proper threads.

[Don_Eilenberger]

I would second the suggestion of an insert of some sort (helicoil probably the easiest http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp, or a TimeSert http://www.timesert.com/ IMHO a better choice for this application.)

 

Think about what happens if the remaining threads decide to let go. Instant loss of oil pressure, and an oiled back wheel. Having this happen isn't a fun experience - it's butt puckering (BTDT.)

 

I'd also suggest that if you've never installed an insert this isn't a good place to learn how.. and getting a pro to do it would be a VERY GOOD IDEA.

 

Doubling up on crush washers doubles the potential leaks IMHO, and accomplishes nothing good. Even the Teflon tape is questionable, since you don't want a piece of it getting loose and circulating with the oil to end up blocking an oil passage someplace.

 

Mark it down to beginners un-luck and call a dealer or ask about a good independent in your area.

[Bheckel169]

All good suggestions. First, I did find a new crush washer exactly like the old one except the new one of course, has not been crushed so I'm thinking once I replaced this my problem could be solved. I also coated the valve threads with Permatex Blue RTV silicon gasket maker and chased the bolt back in with no problems and tightened it up flush. I'm going to wait 24 hours and fire it up and see what happens. If it weeps oil it's off to BMW tech and the more advanced re-threading I'll probably need. I'm hoping this action today did the trick.

Bruce

[RTinNC]

All good suggestions. First, I did find a new crush washer exactly like the old one except the new one of course, has not been crushed so I'm thinking once I replaced this my problem could be solved. I also coated the valve threads with Permatex Blue RTV silicon gasket maker and chased the bolt back in with no problems and tightened it up flush. I'm going to wait 24 hours and fire it up and see what happens. If it weeps oil it's off to BMW tech and the more advanced re-threading I'll probably need. I'm hoping this action today did the trick.

Bruce

Bruce ... I so feel your pain!! Been there a few too many times myself ...........sitting in the garage muttering "why did I not just leave well enough alone"! Hang in there ... I am sure it will all work out !!

 

[Don_Eilenberger]

One thing I hadn't thought of - Permatex makes a thread repair compound. It's basically an epoxy like compound, you put into the hole, grease the bolt and thread it in, and the compound hardens around the threads on the bolt. You then remove the bolt, clean up the surface and area, and use the new threads.

 

It might be used for this sort of damage successfully - but I'd take a lot of care to make certain none of it gets into the operating mechanism of the pressure relief valve, or into the oil passages.

 

The problem with RTV, is although it might seal the threads to the outside of the pressure relief valve - it provides no strength against thread pullout.

[Bheckel169]

Don,

 

I didn't know about this compound. I'll investigate this because even though I think I still have good integrity on the threads, you never know.

Bruce

[Don_Eilenberger]

Info on it..

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/thread_repair.htm

 

http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/81668.pdf

 

DISCLAIMER: I've never used this stuff. I have a few kits of it in my garage as vodoo/juju to keep from needing to use it (Eilenberger's Law of Parts..) It sounds like reasonable stuff, I've heard from other people who've used it that it works, but it might turn your engine into a lump of aluminum, as you said - ya' never know..

[Bheckel169]

Thanks Don.

Bruce

[Tim Wilson]

Info on it..

 

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/thread_repair.htm

 

http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/81668.pdf

 

DISCLAIMER: I've never used this stuff.

 

I have. Stripped the trans drain hole on a '95 Nissan Altima. Worked perfectly to get the bolt back in without leaking but never did take it back out before selling the car so I don't know how durable it is with regard to removing/reinserting the bolt.