TDY Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 I have been told that I should change my fluid every year on my r1150rt. If this is a closed system and no air or dirt is getting in why should I have to change fluid? Just can not figure this out. Link to comment
Haynes Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 Your fluid will still be contaminated with traces of components that wear in the system. Traces of metal, rubber and perhaps plastic need to be flushed with the fluid. I only do mine every two years. Link to comment
T__ Posted July 4, 2009 Share Posted July 4, 2009 TDY, well it really ISN’T a closed system that people think it is.. The actual brake supply reservoirs in the ABS controller are vented to atmosphere down a hose that exits by the rear brake pedal.. The handlebar & rear pedal reservoir are pretty well sealed from ambient but the computer reservoirs aren’t.. Still a long ways in for moisture to travel but it isn’t sealed.. If you live in a dry climate & only ride in dry weather then changing fluid every year might be overkill.. If you store it in a damp place or ride in a lot of iffy weather then it sure wouldn’t hurt to do an annual flush & bleed.. On my last 1150RT with wizzy brakes I always did an annual brake flush as I had the Tupperware off for other service anyhow & it was little additional effort to remove the fuel tank & flush the brakes from there.. Twisty Link to comment
RickB Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 ...little additional effort to remove the fuel tank & flush the brakes from there.. Twisty Say what?? Link to comment
Boffin Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 ...little additional effort to remove the fuel tank & flush the brakes from there.. Twisty Say what?? The brakes on a R1150RT are not like normal brakes. They have four hydraulic circuits, one from the bars to the ABS/Servo unit, one from the foot pedal to the ABS/Servo, one frmm the ABS/Servo to the back wheel and one from the ABS/Servo the front wheel. There is no direct hydraulic connection betwen these circuits, so if you try to bleed the brakes by cracking the front wheel caliper bleed nipple and topping up at the bar resevoir you end up emptying the wheel circuit of fluid and possible screwing up the expensive servo unit. All is not lost however, and with a workshop manual, a home-made filler tool and the instructions to be found in the M/C FAQ at the top of the forum they can be done at home. A dealer will charge quite a bit of money to do this as there is a fair amount of labour involved. To help you understand here are the instructions for the wheel circuit bleed and the control circuit bleed. If you are at all concerned about your ability to do this, either pony up at your dealer or get to a tech-daze to learn from the enlightened. Andy Link to comment
RickB Posted July 6, 2009 Share Posted July 6, 2009 ...little additional effort to remove the fuel tank & flush the brakes from there.. Twisty Say what?? The brakes on a R1150RT are not like normal brakes. They have four hydraulic circuits, one from the bars to the ABS/Servo unit, one from the foot pedal to the ABS/Servo, one frmm the ABS/Servo to the back wheel and one from the ABS/Servo the front wheel. There is no direct hydraulic connection betwen these circuits, so if you try to bleed the brakes by cracking the front wheel caliper bleed nipple and topping up at the bar resevoir you end up emptying the wheel circuit of fluid and possible screwing up the expensive servo unit. All is not lost however, and with a workshop manual, a home-made filler tool and the instructions to be found in the M/C FAQ at the top of the forum they can be done at home. A dealer will charge quite a bit of money to do this as there is a fair amount of labour involved. To help you understand here are the instructions for the wheel circuit bleed and the control circuit bleed. If you are at all concerned about your ability to do this, either pony up at your dealer or get to a tech-daze to learn from the enlightened. Andy Andy, I am all too familiar with the joys of the mini-stan and the myriad of bleed nipples on the ABS unit. My reference was to Twisty's comment about "little additional effort"... Maybe after I do it dozen or so times I will feel the same way. Link to comment
pmfranke Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 does this apply to the 2000 R1100RT too? Ie. crazy bleeding ,brakes not like normal brakes... Link to comment
Allen Rowand Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 Nah, the 2000 brakes are a cinch. Even for a newb like me! Bleed the calipers like any other bike (be careful not to hit the horn button with your head when you do the left front- DAMHIK). If you want to bleed the ABS, pull the tank and go for it; only 2 bleeders. I bled the ABS because the bike is new to me, but I'll probably only do it every other bleed or if the tupperware is off for another reason. Best, Allen Link to comment
NumbHands Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 If you are at all concerned about your ability to do this, either pony up at your dealer or get to a tech-daze to learn from the enlightened. Andy My dealer quoted $300 minus a discount for arriving without tupperware for a complete bleed. Michael Link to comment
philbytx Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 $300 with your bike naked Most of the folks on this board will do it for a 6 pack! Me, it would be a 6 pack of fine English Ale Link to comment
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