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Timing Adjustment


jblaze5779

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jblaze5779

I took off the HES to inspect the wiring yesterday and reinstalled it to what I think is the same position. However, I tried to start the engine without the pulley fully tightened and not I'm not sure if the little brass ring with the opening in it between the pulley and sensor is in the correct position. I placed the brass wheel back with the tab aligned with the small gap on the HES (I figured that made sense).

 

The seems to run alright but I want to make sure everything is kosher before I go reinstalling the tank and body panels.

 

I read the article about adjusting the timing by gently moving the HES back and forth while listening for the fuel pump. I was wondering if I could just use an induction timing light like what you would use on a car? Seems to me the timing light would be more accurate. I could just attach it to the right side and shoot the gun into the viewing window.

 

If I can use the light, what is the recommended degrees off TDC? Should it fire right at, before, or after TDC?

 

 

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jblaze5779, it is difficult to give you a real definitive answer on your timing question..

 

On the older BMW 1100 boxers a person could easily use an inductive timing light to set the ign timing.. I have even used an inductive T-light on the early single spark 1150’s..

 

I have tried using a T-light on a few of the later 1150 twin sparkers & not had a good warm fuzzy feeling about the accuracy.. The later 1150’s uses much more dynamic timing mapping so rely on engine temp,, air temp,, TPS position to choose the correct spark mapping..

If a person could find data on the spark advance during engine cranking you could check the spark timing during engine cranking (most crank at TDC spark cold) I have no way of knowing (or finding) if that info is valid on the late twin spark 1150’s..

 

The only way I would (personally) feel comfortable relying on an inductive timing procedure on the later twin spark 1150’s would be if I either checked a few “unmolested” twin sparkers & got the same results across all the samples,, OR, checked the cranking,, low idle, & 1100 RPM (at a given ambient temp) on my twin spark 1150 PRIOR to any movement of the HES..

 

Hopefully someone has checked enough samples of the later 1150 boxer to give you some sort of verification that there is a process that is valid to check the basic ign timing that is accurate & repeatable enough to feel confident about..

 

Twisty

 

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As far as I remember on the 1100 the HES trigger cup is keyed so that it can't be installed incorrectly (or at least you'd really have to try.) Not sure if the 1150 is different but isn't there anything that indicates correct orientation on the crank? There should be...

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Seth, on the 1150 (at least the ones I have worked with) the cup is keyed to crank position but there is some slight slop in that area so the cup is also bonded (actually glued) to the back of the pulley.. As a rule that bonding needs to be re-done after the pulley is removed as I have found more than a few with failed bonding upon removal.. There is a procedure in the BMW service manual for re-bonding that cup (rotor gate) back to the pulley using instant adhesive (I personally use Loc-tite 380) Black Max as it has a polymer in it that enhances grip & fills slight gaps.. On the ones I have used the 380 on the cup has been still bonded after future removal..

 

Not sure it makes any difference once the pulley is torqued down but the service manual suggests re-bonding if loose so that is what I have always done..

 

Twisty

 

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Seth...you are, of course, right :thumbsup:

 

In both the R1100 and R1150 motors, the tang on the rotor lines up with the notch in the pulley, they are also the same part numbers on the R1100 and R1150 motors.

 

I suppose you COULD screw it up...like anything, really :eek:

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That glue stuff is all news to me, I didn't notice any and the crankshaft center bolt holds everything on so securely I can imagine that any would be necessary... but then again there is no BMW service procedure that I would consider too strange to be true...

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jblaze5779

Yeah my cup came off the pulley during the procedure. I should probably glue it back on but I can't see it coming off once I've torqued everything down...

 

can't BMW make anything simple?

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Yeah my cup came off the pulley during the procedure. I should probably glue it back on but I can't see it coming off once I've torqued everything down...

 

can't BMW make anything simple?

 

jblaze5779, I’m not real sure what the BMW reason is in the cup gluing.. Might be as simple as making sure the cup stays put during assembly & the locating pin doesn’t get out of position & bent during pulley install. Or there could be more to it like thinking due to the slight locating pin movement that it would be possible for the cup to migrate to a different advance position in long term engine operation causing a base ign timing change..

 

It’s easiest enough to glue the darn thing so I always do that on re-assembly.. That way I don’t have to think or care about the reason way it is specified.. Obviously they (BMW) took the time & effort to write it into the manual so I take the time to do it..

 

 

Twisty

 

 

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jblaze5779

I'm just trying to get used to this 1150 it's been down more than running since I bought it. My 07 Dakar that I had before was trouble free the entire time I owned it.

 

Don't get me wrong I love getting familiar with the bike but I also love riding bikes just as much.

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