"special tools"

[smootz]

For what it's worth I thought I might share.

 

Since the odo on the RT clicked past 100K last year I have been methodically replacing a few items that I worry about on long trips even if they look OK. Last week it was front wheel bearings. The manual shows BMW special tools to pull the right bearing. Not having that tool I improvised. I covered the wheel area around the bearing and carefully tack welded a 5/8" hex nut to the bearing. A length of all- thread rod, a short heavy pipe slider and another nut made a functional "slide hammer". I warmed the hub slightly with a torch, being careful not to scorch paint. The bearing came out quite easy. Once the right bearing is out the left one can be knocked out with a drift. (don't forget the snap ring)

 

Another "special tool" is used to determine shim thickness for correct pre-load on the final drive bearing. Many BMW shops don't have this one and they just put the same shims back in. On my bike the bearing failure was likely because of too much pre-load so I wanted to measure it. I removed all of the shims and strategically placed 3 pieces of soft solder in their place. I buttoned up the unit and then dis-assembled it again. I removed the solder, mic'ed it, and added that measurement to the recommended pre-load to determine the shim pac.

 

Does anyone else have tricks or short cuts to share that help accomplish the "special tool" jobs?

 

SCOTTIE

 

 

[Stan Walker]

I removed all of the shims and strategically placed 3 pieces of soft solder in their place. I buttoned up the unit and then dis-assembled it again. I removed the solder, mic'ed it, and added that measurement to the recommended pre-load to determine the shim pac.

 

Nice approach. Did you happen to take pictures showing the solder placement?

 

Stan

[ltljohn]

You could also use Plastigauge for that.

 

The special funnel needed to change the fluid for the "whizzy" brakes can be easily made with parts from the McMaster Carr catalog for about $15

 

Funnel

4005T5 1 Each Quick-drain Clear Polymethylpentene Funnel, 8 Oz Capacity, 4-7/16"top Od, 7-3/4"o’all Height

 

This is the rubber plug to fit,

 

9545K27 1 Pack Tapered Push-in Round Rubbber Plug, Through Hole, Size 2, 13/64" Hole Size

This is a pack of 25 if anyone needs one I have plenty left.

[RoanokeRider]

I made the brake flush resivour with a coleman camp stove funnel from Wally World for $0.87 and found a rubber stopper at a True Value for $0.85 with out a hole. Used a push-pull drill to make a hole in it. Worked fine.

[smiller]

You could also use Plastigauge for that.

The problem with Plastigauge is that it doesn't come in sizes large enough to measure the clearance with all shims removed. To get within Plastigauge range you'd have to use a shim of the correct thickness (smaller than needed but not too much smaller), which would require some experimentation (assuming you had spare shims on hand, which you probably wouldn't.) Using large-diameter solder solves this problem and seems to be a pretty neat idea, wish I thought of it!

[ltljohn]

I made the brake flush resivour with a coleman camp stove funnel from Wally World for $0.87 and found a rubber stopper at a True Value for $0.85 with out a hole. Used a push-pull drill to make a hole in it. Worked fine.

 

Even better!

[RBertalotto]

I would pay big money to see pictures of the "thick solder" procedure...........Even a hand sketched drawing would be great.

 

I'm ready to do my final drive bearing on my 04 R1150RS with only 18K miles....(ugh!)

 

Thanks

[smootz]

No need to spend big bucks. It's really a very simple trick that machinists have used for years.

 

When I had to do my RT final last year I was amazed to find that none of the shops I contacted had the special tool. I am fortunate to own a small machine shop so I followed the photo in the manual and made one. After getting a reading of .006 too tight I questioned my homemade tool. That's when I remembered the solder trick. I placed three pieces of soft solder at equal points behind the bearing in the place of the shim pack. I assembled the final drive case and then took it apart again. The "new" thickness of the solder gives a "real" representation of the gap. Use that measurement + the recommended pre-load and you have the correct thickness for the shim pack. Don't be afraid, once you get it apart it will make perfect sense to you. BTW - My final really was .006 beyond the max allowed pre-load. I am convinced that that caused my original bearing failure but I bet the Germans would never admit to the mistake.

 

Another thing I learned, (maybe from this site) was to forget about using a heat gun to release the locktite on the bolts that hold the final drive to the swing arm. Use a small brazing tip and direct a very tiny flame directly into the hex socket of the bolts. If you are careful you will not damage any paint and the bolts will come right out.

 

SCOTTIE

[11101110]

I would avoid the rosin core solder. You would end up having to clean up any acidic rosin when it gets squeezed out. Plumbing solder is usually rosin free while electronic solder usually has a rosin core.