Lubricate Speedo Cable

[ElevenFifty]

Speedo needle is vibrating and speed is consistently 3mph or more LOWER than GPS speed ... just started about 1000 miles back (day before yesterday

 

Is it worth trying to lube it and keep it running awhile (I'm on the road for the next two weeks)?

 

If lube is worth trying, what should I use?

 

If replacement is needed, how much of the plastic needs to come off?

 

DH;~)

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

[smiller]

You might try just cleaning it first. The cable is normally pretty easy to remove from the bottom, remove the cable sheath from the speedo drive hub down at the wheel and you usually can just pull the cable core out, leaving the sheath in place. The cable will probably be pretty grimy so cleaning it may do the trick. If not you can try lubricating it but do not use oil or grease or anything that will collect dirt, instead use something where the carrier evaporates and just leaves a dry film, such as WD40 or silicone lubricant.

[ElevenFifty]

Will do - thanks!

[Selden]

Remove the cable from its housing and clean with solvent. Then re-lubricate with DuPont multi-use Teflon lube, which is available at most hardware stores in spray cans or in a handy squeeze bottle.

 

[ElevenFifty]

Do I need to take the cable off at the speedo or can I remove it just by taking it out of the wheel sender unit?

 

I removed the retaining screw and pulled the cable assembly from the sender unit ... looks like I need to take it out of the speedo to pull the cable out of the sheath. Is this correct? Do I need to remove ant plastic to get to the speedo connection?

 

Thanks

[smiller]

You should be able to pull the cable out of the sheath with some needle-nose pliers (if it doesn't fall right out in your hand.) You don't need to disconnect it up at the speedo as that end has a square drive that will slip right out of the speedo head. When you reinstall the cable (from the bottom end) you may need to turn it a bit and it will slip back in at the speedo head. Note that when I say 'cable' I'm not talking about the entire speedo drive cable assembly but the interior cable only, not the black sheath/housing. The sheath/housing portion stays in place and does not need to be removed.

[ElevenFifty]

I have pulled with quite a bit of force ... 20, 30 lbs or more ... a good hard tug, but the cable does not come out of the speedo. I can move in in and out about a quarter inch but that's it. I'm tentative about applying any more force to the thing. (I did hook up a drill motor after the tugging and it still works.)

 

Is the fact that it resists coming free important? Would you just keep tugging till it gives or would you uninstall at the speedo head?

 

Of course the collar at the speedo is much too tight to turn by hand, but I think I could get a mini pipe wrench on it. What do you advise?

 

DH

[Selden]

Resisting that much force suggests that the cable is kinked somewhere, and you may need to replace it. A "normal" speedometer cable should fall out of the sheath with almost no effort -- in fact, the problem I have usually had is keeping it from falling out.

[smiller]

Resisting that much force suggests that the cable is kinked somewhere, and you may need to replace it. A "normal" speedometer cable should fall out of the sheath with almost no effort -- in fact, the problem I have usually had is keeping it from falling out.

I agree, it should come out pretty easily. If it doesn't then it may be kinked, or the cable core perhaps starting to fray and holding onto the cable sheath. At this point perhaps best to pull the cable assembly. This is also pretty easy (on the 1100 at least, I think the 1150 is similar.) You can usually unscrew the cable retaining ring on the back of the speedo by just reaching under, then the whole thing should come out from the bottom (no panels to remove.) The only hitch is that sometimes there's a tie wrap holding the cable in place but you can often get to that as well without removing anything.

[Ken H.]

Remove the cable from its housing and clean with solvent. Then re-lubricate with DuPont multi-use Teflon lube, which is available at most hardware stores in spray cans or in a handy squeeze bottle.

 

Lube if you want, but the BMW cables are designed to run dry.

[smiller]

Lube if you want, but the BMW cables are designed to run dry.

That is true. For my part I was only recommending lubing if cleaning didn't do the job as sometimes lubing the cable can get some more service out of one that's getting near end-of-life.