Rubber Chicken FD Bushings...Those who have installed them

[E30TECH]

I installed the RCR / JL Enterprise FD bushings per the directions. I took the RT out for a few mile ride ( <10 miles), brought it home and checked the play in the FD There was moderate play. I backed the locknut off, preloaded the bushing again, and retorqued to 7Nm. I went for a ride today - about 25 miles. Checked again, and the play was even more than the first time. The bike actually felt OK I thought, so I was surprised.

 

I'm assuming the bushing was hanging on the pin, and required more than 9Nm to press on all the way (even though I polished the pins to make it a slight interference fit).

 

I wanted to let those who have installed these bushings to check way before the recommended 500 mile interval.

 

Also, is it possible the bushing got screwed up with that much play?

 

I have oilite bronze at work, so if I need to....I'll make another pair of them.

 

 

Interesting how I happened to just find this thread....

RCR / JL Paralever bushing issues

[jm1515]

Couple of things....

1. Use the right Loctite to glue the bushing to the pin...it's #270 and let it set up for a few hrs.

I used Blue Medium on the threads tho...nothing on the adjuster till after ~800mi retorque.

2. Make SURE the bushing is seated flush w/ the shoulder of the pin...no gaps. I wouldn't rely on an install torque... you can see this fairly well with a strong light at the proper angle to the pins inside the housing.

3. Forget the 7Nm final torque...actually, the instructions that came w/ my bushings said to "Set preload torque with the INBOARD pivot pin to 36-48 inch lbs.."

This must be a mistake...that's not even 5.5 Nm. Instead, do what I learned to do, mostly from this site. Torque until you get a nice firm, not binding feel of the FD thru it's arc. It also helps if you construct a 'torque applicator'. I cut a 2' piece of 2x4, and bolted it the FD w/ 2 lug nutz.

As I torqued, using my trusty Craftsman Torque wrench, I did the 12~6 & 3~9 thing on the FD using the 2x4. When I got a nice, firm arc w/ NO slop...I stopped. For me, that was 8.6Nm. Of course, YMMV...

That was just about 6000mi ago, and the rear wheel on my Roadster is solid as a rock.

 

 

[E30TECH]

I used the #270 loctite on the outer fixed pin threads and on the bore of the bushings.

 

"Set preload torque with the INBOARD pivot pin to 36-48 inch lbs.."

 

Yes, I agree that is an error, which is why I went with the BMW spec for that.

 

 

How many threads do you have past the locknut?

 

Do you think its possible the bushing got f-ed up?

[skinny_tom (aka boney)]

2. Make SURE the bushing is seated flush w/ the shoulder of the pin...no gaps. I wouldn't rely on an install torque... you can see this fairly well with a strong light at the proper angle to the pins inside the housing.

 

The bushings fit on the pins tightly. I had to apply more than the spec'd torque to get the bushings to fully seat on the pins before backing the inboard pin out and re-torquing for final install.

 

How many threads do you have past the locknut?

 

I just went down and looked. I have maybe 1 to 1.5 threads sticking out.

[OoPEZoO]

The bushings fit on the pins tightly. I had to apply more than the spec'd torque to get the bushings to fully seat on the pins before backing the inboard pin out and re-torquing for final install.

 

+1

 

I had to "over torque" the pin in order to 100% seat the bushings, then backed it out a little and torqued them to spec. After the 500 mile retorque, mine haven't moved at all. They have been in there for at least 20k miles now.

[swgee]

I just went through the same thing and dressed the pins and inside the bushings just a tad with emory cloth. I then watched from the rear as I was tightening everything up to make sure bushings were in their proper place on the pins. Also torqued until just a tad bit of drag. Things good so far.

[Spyder]

Perry, the only way you are going to get any movement initially is if the race was not seated all the way or if the bushing was not seated to the shoulder of the pin.

How many threads are showing on the inboard pin beyond the locknut?

There is a good thread on this topic here

[E30TECH]

I have about 1.5 threads as well. I know the race was pressed in completely. I'm sure the bushing wasn't seated completely.

 

I didn't want to over torque too much as I was afraid the bushing would crack.

 

I should be good in regards to the bushing being seated.

 

I'll check the link.

 

Thanks

[ElevenFifty]

Forget the 7Nm torque and do it by feel ... tighten until you take the play out of the bushing and then a touch more ...

 

Lock it down and ride. I set mine by feel, then backed it off with and reset with a torque wrench a couple of times to get a measurement ... it was closer to 9Nm on my bike.

 

I must have adjusted loose bearing cranksets and wheel bearings on my road bikes (we're talking the '60's and 70's here - Campagnolo and Shimano didn't use sealed bearings back then) more times than I can count so doing it by feel just seemed right.

 

One check and slight readjustment at 600 miles and no problems for the past 20K+

[PETDOC]

Interesting thread. I just finished installing the JL bushings on my '04 GS and made certain the races and bushings were seated completely. After reassembling I over tightened the inboard adjuster pivot pin backed off and then torqued it to 42 in-lb (elected to split the difference from recommended 36 to 48 in-lb). My rear wheel at this time is rock solid, but I have yet to put any miles on the new bushings.