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Broken Case Latch in MD


Selden

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I had a parking lot tipover while loading the bike this morning; the right side case came off, and I discovered that the metal latch fractured. So, I am in a need of a right side inner case or complete case for an R1100RT. I'm currently in Richmond, VA, and will be heading out for New Castle, DE on Thursday. I'll be based in New Castle until Saturday, returning to Atlanta on Sunday. The case is currently functional (as long as I don't hit large bumps), with some wooden wedges jammed between frame and upper mounts to keep it in place; I may be able to improvise something better with zip ties.

 

If anybody in this general area has a used case, I'd love to snap it up. I'm going to check dealers when I have time (I'm tied up in a computer users group meeting today and tomorrow).

 

Thanks in advance for suggestions. I'll be checking the forum during breaks.

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How I love the internet. :clap:

 

I PM'ed Paul Mihalka earlier today, and he suggested contacting Morton's BMW in Fredericksburg. They have a right side case in stock and are asking "only" $193, which strikes me as a pretty good price for a new case. So, unless someone here comes up with a better solution in the next 48 hours, I'll be stopping at Morton's Thursday morning.

 

Can the lock be rekeyed, or do I have to start carrying two keys? (I'm already carrying two spares, so this really means two more keys.)

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The lock can be rekeyed. Infact, BMW sells a kit to do it. Knowing Mortons reputation, they probably have one (or a few) in stock.

 

If you have never been there......its a nice dealership with awesome people. They helped bail me out a few years ago when my HES failed in Winchester. They had a new sensor and alternator belt in stock for a good price, and were extremely helpful. I make sure to stop in for a cup of coffee whenever I'm passing through and not in a rush. Make sure to eyeball the MV Agusta they currently have sitting on the floor......drool

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Paul Mihalka

If it is a new bag at Morton's it does not have a lock in it, as the lock is a separate item. The lock from your damaged bag can be removed and installed in the new bag, or a new lock cylinder can be matched to your current key and then installed.

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Boy I'd love to run across a deal like that for a topcase.

 

I always wondered if the factory blew up after only making x number. Or if there was some special BMW "never break down" Mojo packet that BMW put in there to make them worth the asking price.

 

Has anyone ever wondered that too?

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Wonderful; transferring things from the old case should be no problem, as I will have all day. Can I do this with my own tools, or are special tools required?

 

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Outstanding. That looks simple enough to do with a Leatherman, and I brought a lot more tools than that with me. Now to scrounge some paperclips.

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I saw someone from hotel maintenance this morning, and asked if I could cadge some zip ties. He handed me a half dozen, and I used two to secure a piece of wood to the luggage carrier side rail in a way that jams the top rear mount very securely in place. I gave a hefty tug, and the case didn't budge. I wouldn't want to do the rest of the trip this way, but feel confident that the case will stay in place long enough to get to Morton's tomorrow -- despite the worst that downtown Richmond streets can throw at me.

 

When I get home next week, some zip ties are going into the bottom of the glove compartment.

 

Props to the Hilton Garden Inn in downtown Richmond. It's only been open for 3 months, and is in a former department store building. They've been open long enough to get their act together, but not so long for the staff to be jaded, and everything is new and spiffy. My room is huge, 26x15 feet, with a 14 foot ceiling, plus 8x5 bathroom. This is the most enjoyable hotel stay I've had in years. I think hotels are trying harder in this bad economy.

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Anton Largiader

$193 is the retail price for the multifunction box. If they're willing to sell you a $350 case for that price, fantastic! If it's just the box, you'll probably end up buying the rivet set and a bit of labor also.

 

I thought I had a good used MF box here but after looking I think I sold it. :(

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When I get home next week, some zip ties are going into the bottom of the glove compartment.

 

Never leave home without them :thumbsup:

 

I always carry half a dozen beefy 16" zip ties, plus some smaller 4-5" ones for little stuff. Plus I never leave home without one of those bungie nets with the hooks on them. You never know when you will have to stop and bring home a table saw........got some funny looks that day :grin:

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Yup. I stopped at Morton's BMW in Fredericksburg today and learned why I had been quoted such a "relatively" modest price for the right side bag -- it was a latch assembly only. Shop was booked, and I had enough free space to carry the new latch, so I rode on to New Castle, and will try to fix it Saturday morning. It looks to be pretty straightforward to drill out the 7 pop rivets; rivets come with the kit. There are also two rectangular black plastic pieces -- I haven't figured out yet what they're for, but hope it will become obvious on disassembly. Zip ties are holding well.

 

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A couple tips when doing this repair: Make sure all of the rivet "bodies" are out of their respective holes (holes are clean), might have to use a punch to tap them out, as just drilling off the head of the rivet won't remove the body. A vice is nice for holding the assembly while retro fitting the lock mechanism. Those two black plastic pieces (with "slots" in them?) are for the locking/latching "arms" that grab the inner side of the case when actuating the handle. Remove the originals, and install the new ones..they're kind'a like grommet's/washers/spacers to allow a snug and secure feel when locking down the handle. The originals will probably be squished and deformed.

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The patient went in for surgery this morning. I decided not to try a driveway repair in Delaware Saturday morning and, since my zip tie lash up was quite stable, decided to ride it that way to a friend's place in Greensboro, SC, where I could be assured of working in a garage with a full complement of tools, and someone with a creative outlook for fixing things.

 

Other than the somewhat constrained space for drilling out some of the rivets, it was a very straightforward repair, with no need to consult a manual. Probably the trickiest park was finding the tab to release the lock. The latch mechanism seems unnecesarily complicated, but I have to admit that it works well. Happy ending.

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The latch mechanism seems unnecesarily complicated, but I have to admit that it works well. Happy ending.

 

Whats that.....a German designed mechanism is unnecessarily complicated? Never :rofl:

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  • 3 years later...

Hi! I have a 2002 R1150RT. The side case latches are becoming difficult to open/close. Top case latch still works nicely. I am considering drilling out rivets to see what might be worn/dirty/needs lube, but I'd like to know what I am going to find in there before I get started. Did you take photos when you opened yours up?

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Sorry to hear that. I took no photos at the time, and (despite my pack rat tendencies), I tossed the old latch assembly. Replacing the latch assembly (if necessary) is pretty straightforward. The most difficult bit is removal of the lock tumblers, which is illustrated nicely here: Re Keying R1100/1150 Cases.

 

See also this illustrated guide (with the exact same failure that I experienced): How to fix Repair BMW System Case & Replace Multibox.

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Hi! I have a 2002 R1150RT. The side case latches are becoming difficult to open/close. Top case latch still works nicely. I am considering drilling out rivets to see what might be worn/dirty/needs lube, but I'd like to know what I am going to find in there before I get started. Did you take photos when you opened yours up?

 

Hi Nelson,

Another thing to check is whether the orange tabs may be slightly bent. I use a long nosed pliers or similar to gently line them up with the slot.

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