Autocom whine with Zumo install --05 RT

[nbooth]

Just had a Zumo550 installed and connected to my Autocom. There's a constant whine/buzz on the line. Dealer says it's the servo motors on the 05 RT that cause the whine and that nothing can be done. The whine/buss does disappear when the brakes are engaged. He proposed two solutions:

 

1. Buy a new bike (non-servo assisted brakes)

2. Go completely wireless (Bluetooth helmet to bypass the Autocom)

 

I like the Bluetooth approach (actually I REALLY like the first option) but that's a realistic option at this point. The Z550 seems to do everything I need it to and I have an XM hockey puck connected which gives me great audio options. Just have to get rid of the buzz/whine.

 

Anyone ever confront this issue before?

 

 

[johnlt]

I don't think that is normal. Even if it is the servo system, there must be a way around it. I had an 05RT with autocom and no whine/buzz. Call autocom UK service (I think the US disto folks have quit representing autocom although they were also very knowledgeable. Sounds to me that your dealer may be giving you the "easy" answer instead of working the problem.

[jakfrost]

I don't think its all that abnormal either...I have an 05 as well and have been living with the 'whine' for 4 years.

 

And believe me I have tried everything everyone has suggested including buying the suggested accessory parts from Autocom that are supposed to remove/reduce the problem.

 

As far as I can determine at this point the main culprit in my case is the Autocom Bluetooth Dongle. When I unplug it from the Active 5 unit the whine goes away. But I need it since I am on call 24/7 for 22 days a month.

 

The only other input I can give is that it seems to reduce in intensity as my ride progresses, which might suggest that it is alternator/charging related, since I am speculating that the alternator is under a heaver load as it initially replenishes the battery after the engine start draw.

 

And following your comment about the ABS/servo system playing into the equation...I know when I apply the brakes I can detect a very slight uptick in the frequency of the whine...which I equate to the voltage draw and subsequent alternator load increase.

 

Just for the record I have relocated all the audio leads at least twice, as well as tapping the battery directly for both the autocom and the garmin...

 

Jim

[bobbybob]

Just had a Zumo550 installed and connected to my Autocom. There's a constant whine/buzz on the line. Dealer says it's the servo motors on the 05 RT that cause the whine and that nothing can be done. The whine/buss does disappear when the brakes are engaged. He proposed two solutions:

 

1. Buy a new bike (non-servo assisted brakes)

2. Go completely wireless (Bluetooth helmet to bypass the Autocom)

 

I like the Bluetooth approach (actually I REALLY like the first option) but that's a realistic option at this point. The Z550 seems to do everything I need it to and I have an XM hockey puck connected which gives me great audio options. Just have to get rid of the buzz/whine.

 

Anyone ever confront this issue before?

 

 

 

I don't understand---do the servo motors run continuously until the brakes are *engaged* ??? This sounds completely backwards.

For the record, I had a whine coming from the audio output from my radar detector to the Autocom--caused by the typical ground loop-- and THAT whine ALSO disappeared whenever the brakes were engaged. But my 07 RT does NOT have servo brakes. I installed a ground loop isolator and it completely killed the whine. I would be suspicious of the dealer's knowledge (or motives). It is not unusual for ground loop interference to be temporarily altered or eliminated by other electrical draws on the system...such as brake lights...horns...turn signals...etc.

 

 

[markgoodrich]

You asked "Anyone confront this problem before?"

 

Yes, it happens all the time. I've had it on three different motorcycles, with different accessories plugged into different Autocoms.

 

Have finally resolved it by doing the following things:

 

Installing a ground loop isolator (look on ebay, I have a name brand and a no-name one, and they both work equally well) between the offending accessory and the Autocom.

 

If that doesn't do the trick, the Autocom part (call TopGear, they'll probably still have the part and will still try to help) which is, as far as I can tell, a red version of a ground loop isolator, might do the trick.

 

If neither of those work, try a power filter, which is a big cylinder full of magic which you hook up from the battery to your power block where the Autocom etc are powered.

 

Grounding everything to the battery, via a little ground block I made up with Radio Shack parts may have helped.

 

I've got all of the above; in fact, I have two ground loop isolators for two different accessories. I have, finally, clear sound.

 

If NOTHING works, get your comprehensive deductible reduced to $100, wait a decent interval, and decide to clean the tar and goo off the bottom of your bike with a (large) pan of gasoline. Casually light a cigar, and holler out "Mercy me, someone call the fire department, my motorcycle is on FIRE!"

 

Proceed back to dealer's option #1.

 

Here, THIS is the no-name GLI I bought, which did the trick.

 

No way it's the servos; my '06 has 'em.

[nbooth]

great solutions....I'll try the ground loop...anyone just ditch the autocom and go bluetooth?

 

The dealer confirmed that there's no autocom distributor in the US anymore...what's up with that?

[IanW]

Just had a Zumo550 installed and connected to my Autocom. There's a constant whine/buzz on the line. Dealer says it's the servo motors on the 05 RT that cause the whine and that nothing can be done. The whine/buss does disappear when the brakes are engaged. He proposed two solutions:

 

1. Buy a new bike (non-servo assisted brakes)

2. Go completely wireless (Bluetooth helmet to bypass the Autocom)

 

I like the Bluetooth approach (actually I REALLY like the first option) but that's a realistic option at this point. The Z550 seems to do everything I need it to and I have an XM hockey puck connected which gives me great audio options. Just have to get rid of the buzz/whine.

 

Anyone ever confront this issue before?

 

 

It is not the servo motors, I have an 05 with Autocom and Zumo 550 all hard wired (no Autocom bluetooth thingo) and there is no whine. Sounds to me like it is coming from the alternator, try re-routing your wiring.

Ian

[bobbybob]

great solutions....I'll try the ground loop...anyone just ditch the autocom and go bluetooth?

 

The dealer confirmed that there's no autocom distributor in the US anymore...what's up with that?

 

 

I don't believe the Zumo has stereo bluetooth output from the XM. Just nav guidance and cel phone audio.

 

Plus....you WILL add other audio sources in the future and will wish you had the Autocom.

[marcopolo]

I've got an '06 RT with servo-assisted brakes. I have my Garmin 276C wired into my Autocom and I have no whine whatsoever (I'm only getting voice prompts from it. I have an iPod wired to the Autocom for music. There too I have no interference at all). The GPS is hard-wired; the iPod runs on its internal battery.

[markgoodrich]

great solutions....I'll try the ground loop...anyone just ditch the autocom and go bluetooth?

 

The dealer confirmed that there's no autocom distributor in the US anymore...what's up with that?

 

Technically true, but the former distributor still has parts, and is still helpful. Top Gear is who you want to call. You'll probably talk to Dan. Nice guy, very knowledgeable.

[Tom B]

Some interesting questions and theories.

 

First of all if you unplug ALL audio accessories from the Autocom system can you confirm that the Autocom system is then totally free from any electrical interference? I expect that it will be noise free.

 

Can you confirm which Autocom system you have, as different Autocom systems had different Aux connections, each designed for various purposes, and I would like to make sure that any tips I provide are as accurate as possible, first time.

 

Can you confirm that the Autocom negative lead is connected directly to the bikes battery negative terminal, and not to any other earth point?

 

Can you confirm where the Autocom 12 volt positive wire is connected to the bikes electrical system?

 

I see that you have a Zumo 550 connected but can you please tell me what part number lead you are using between the Zumo and Autocom and which Autocom Aux connection you are plugging into. If you are not sure of the leads part number maybe you could describe it in detail for me. Maybe you remember what it costs?

 

Do you have any other leads connected to the Autocom and if so can you tell me the part numbers, or describe them and what they are connected to and whether of not any of the other audio devices are bike powered.

 

Autocom UK have fitted systems to hundreds of RT’s without such problems, so we suspect that you may have an incorrect part somewhere, or perhaps a poor electrical supply/connection.

 

If you plug one audio lead/device back in, just one at a time, and recheck for electrical noise before connecting another, you should be able to identify which lead/device is causing the problem, which I believe you have already done in suggesting that it all started when you connected the Zumo, but I do need to double check with you in order to provide the best advice and get this problem sorted quickly.

 

Sometimes, in fact in most cases, when an electrical interference problem happens when the brakes are applied, or when the indicators or headlight are on, it suggests that the positive supply to the Autocom is not suitable, and so you can check this by disconnecting the Autocom positive wire and seeing if the electrical interference goes away when you temporarily (touch) connect it directly to the battery positive terminal. If doing this gets rid of the noise then it confirms that where it was connected is not suitable.

 

If you cannot find a clean positive feed, then I would suggest using part 1546 (now called part 2437 from 2009) which is a direct bike battery connection device which has a remote trigger wire that operates an internal relay to switch the power on/off via the ignition. This means that you could connect both of your Autocom positive and negative wires directly to this device, which connects directly to the bike battery (that you checked before that doing so sorted the problem) and the trigger wire could connect to say the original point where your Autocom was previously connected, but the electrical noise at this point will not contaminate the Autocom audio because it is isolated by the relay.

 

Other than this it is possible that the bike is producing an airborne electrical interference which is being induced into the main control unit or perhaps one of the interface leads/devices. It may be that the power to the Zumo has a poor earth or noisy power feed and when other loads are applied such as the brakes etc, the Zumo output amplifier is sending the noise into the Autocom system. Or perhaps your interface lead between the Autocom and Zumo is not the correct ISOLATED type? But hopefully we will work this out for you and sort the problem soon

 

On a final note please be assured that Autocom will soon have two distribution/service and technical support hubs in the USA, one east and one west coast

 

If you don’t mind PM me the dealer’s details I can forward this advice directly to them, or perhaps you would be kind enough to do so for me

 

Autocom UK Tom

 

[Kritou]

Now, how's about that for service - straight from the horse's mouth AND in the wee hours of a Sunday morning!

[Tom B]

Jim

 

If you don't mind PM me your phone number I will get one of my tech staff to phone you at a time you say is good for you. Lets see if we can't solve your problem at the same time.

 

Autocom UK Tom

[Lmar]

Very Impressive! Now that is what you call service!!

 

[nbooth]

Thanks Tom -- I've run down your recos and here's my experience

 

First of all if you unplug ALL audio accessories from the Autocom system can you confirm that the Autocom system is then totally free from any electrical interference? I expect that it will be noise free. --- Yes, there no whine/buzz of any kind

 

Can you confirm which Autocom system you have, as different Autocom systems had different Aux connections, each designed for various purposes, and I would like to make sure that any tips I provide are as accurate as possible, first time. -- Autocom Pro Seven Sport

 

Can you confirm that the Autocom negative lead is connected directly to the bikes battery negative terminal, and not to any other earth point? --- yes it's directly connected

 

Can you confirm where the Autocom 12 volt positive wire is connected to the bikes electrical system? -- yes it's directly connected

 

I see that you have a Zumo 550 connected but can you please tell me what part number lead you are using between the Zumo and Autocom and which Autocom Aux connection you are plugging into. If you are not sure of the leads part number maybe you could describe it in detail for me. Maybe you remember what it costs? ---- not certain of the PN. I had a Garmin 276C which worked with no problems. Dealer updated the lead for the Z550. I am plugged into the Music Input and have one Aux input which is not used.

 

Do you have any other leads connected to the Autocom and if so can you tell me the part numbers, or describe them and what they are connected to and whether of not any of the other audio devices are bike powered. ---yes, I have a splitter (red) which is used for music/ radar detector and neither is currently connected.

 

Autocom UK have fitted systems to hundreds of RT’s without such problems, so we suspect that you may have an incorrect part somewhere, or perhaps a poor electrical supply/connection.

 

If you plug one audio lead/device back in, just one at a time, and recheck for electrical noise before connecting another, you should be able to identify which lead/device is causing the problem, which I believe you have already done in suggesting that it all started when you connected the Zumo, but I do need to double check with you in order to provide the best advice and get this problem sorted quickly. -- yes the Z550 is plugged into the Music input and that's where the noise comes from

 

Sometimes, in fact in most cases, when an electrical interference problem happens when the brakes are applied, or when the indicators or headlight are on, it suggests that the positive supply to the Autocom is not suitable, and so you can check this by disconnecting the Autocom positive wire and seeing if the electrical interference goes away when you temporarily (touch) connect it directly to the battery positive terminal. If doing this gets rid of the noise then it confirms that where it was connected is not suitable. ---disconnected the positive lead and touched the + battery terminal. Whine/buzz continues when the + lead is touched to the + terminal.

 

If you cannot find a clean positive feed, then I would suggest using part 1546 (now called part 2437 from 2009) which is a direct bike battery connection device which has a remote trigger wire that operates an internal relay to switch the power on/off via the ignition. This means that you could connect both of your Autocom positive and negative wires directly to this device, which connects directly to the bike battery (that you checked before that doing so sorted the problem) and the trigger wire could connect to say the original point where your Autocom was previously connected, but the electrical noise at this point will not contaminate the Autocom audio because it is isolated by the relay.

 

Other than this it is possible that the bike is producing an airborne electrical interference which is being induced into the main control unit or perhaps one of the interface leads/devices. It may be that the power to the Zumo has a poor earth or noisy power feed and when other loads are applied such as the brakes etc, the Zumo output amplifier is sending the noise into the Autocom system. Or perhaps your interface lead between the Autocom and Zumo is not the correct ISOLATED type? But hopefully we will work this out for you and sort the problem soon -- don't know..Which PN would you recommend for the ISOLATED type? I can match that up with the PN the dealer used for the install.

 

On a final note please be assured that Autocom will soon have two distribution/service and technical support hubs in the USA, one east and one west coast

 

If you don’t mind PM me the dealer’s details I can forward this advice directly to them, or perhaps you would be kind enough to do so for me -- I'll forward your counsel to the dealer.I appreciate your help with this. I'm a big fan of Autocom and would like to be able to continue to use it. Thanks!

[Switz]

Removed the Autocom system as it NEVER worked as advertised and replaced with the BMW branded J & M Corp (of Tucson, AZ) 2003 CB/Weather Radio/Intercom/Audio in and now only have to contend with wind noise in the helmet. I get stereo sound in the headphones. The new J&M interface box allows for multiple incoming audio (ie. XM, radar, phone etc). I have the Garman GPSMap 478 with XM-30 antenna setup where that assembly is moveable from the RT to the two GS models as well as the Gold Wing. My 2009 GS was the prototype bike for the J&M 2003 system installation and it works as I had hoped. IM have used the 2003 system on multiple Harley installations in the past.

[CoarsegoldKid]

I think the dealer is incorrect. My bike has servo brakes. When I first wired my Autocom with the cables running up to the front of the bike all was well. Then months later I needed to move the cables out of the way so I cut the ties holding them in place. Upon reassembly I was lazy and didn't re position and tie the wires. I also didn't use the system for months but when I did rider and passenger helmetsets received a obnocious whine and crackle. Rerouting the cables and wires away from the alternator seemed to do the trick. All is quiet. Isolators are supposed to fix the problem according to a thread on the subject of Zumos and Autocoms.

[lopaca]

07 RT - Autocom install couple of years ago - Right after install by my dealer I had the same whine and actually other audio issues. Dealer simply kept moving the wires around and away for the atlernator - took them a couple of tries but finally got it all straightened out - no issues now some 2 years later. It may just be a simple matter of making sure the wires are in the right place and stay in the right place. Good luck.

[krussell]

I've got an 08 with Autocom Super Pro AVI and a Zumo. I had whine problems at first, you can search for prior posts. Running separate power and ground directly to the autocom and Zumo is imperative. I do go through a Centech on the positive side for switching. Isolators are also critical. My power and audio to the Zumo are run in a single bundle up the left side of the bike. My Autocom is in the tail tucked behind the rear seat latch.

 

My audio, once all of this was done, could be described as 'pristine.' I'm very happy with it.

 

Some day when I'm board I may try a StarCom1. I like the idea of remote volume adjustment. The autocom automatic volume is good, but once in a while I want to tweak it and it's sort of a hassle to remove the seat etc.

[Tom B]

I bet that will be an interesting report! but you may want to take a look at the SP-RC which will have full RC plus AV