Broken RT Windscreen Strut

[Kevin A]

Hello everyone, the right side strut that helps raise and lower my '05 RT windscreen snapped near where is was connected to the windscreen bracket. Does anyone know how hard this is to fix? It looks like a fatigue break. Thnx.

 

[Boffin]

Do you have an aftermarket screen? This fault is showing up on a lot of bikes with bigger screens and someone has started manufacturing machined replacements for the cast OEM part - sorry I don't have the details but I know someone will post them.

I was interested to note if the arms had started breaking with the OEM screens after four years of use.

 

Andy

[Indy Dave]

Hello everyone, the right side strut that helps raise and lower my '05 RT windscreen snapped near where is was connected to the windscreen bracket. Does anyone know how hard this is to fix? It looks like a fatigue break. Thnx.

 

Here ya go: http://www.westtoolff.com/.

 

This guys owns a bike and makes highly recommended replacement struts.

 

dave

[Tetz]

The above noted arms are what I put on my 06 and now on my 09.

 

The replacement is pretty easy....the instructions have been posted in the past. If you purchase the better engineered arms (you should) and need the instructions, email me. I have the method saved on my other computer and will email or post them for you.

 

I would agree, this is usually a problem with added aftermarket windshields, so can't blame BMW for this one.

[Kevin A]

Thanks everyone. I just ordered a set from Tyler at that link for $80. He assures me that they're easy to install, so I should be good to go.

 

Kevin

[Kevin A]

I forgot to answer Andy's question - - yes, you guessed correctly about the after market windscreen. I installed a Cee Baily about three years ago. Thanks again.

[Highway41]

Also have WestTools arms on both sides after breaking the left one. I have an Aeroflow and the arm broke going over a very rough RR crossing.

You will need the little nylon bushings out of the old arms so be careful taking them out.

Bill

[Fightingpiper]

What timing....I found a broken right one today. I am on the road still in North Carolina. I stopped by the BMW shop in Greensboro and they don't stock the item. I hinted at them pulling one off a floor RT since I have an 1100 mile trip tomorrow and they wouldn't do it. I'm just going to order from West tool and have sent to my home. Going to be a windy ride with the windscreen all the way down the whole way...

[lopaca]

Hello everyone, the right side strut that helps raise and lower my '05 RT windscreen snapped near where is was connected to the windscreen bracket. Does anyone know how hard this is to fix? It looks like a fatigue break. Thnx.

 

Here ya go: http://www.westtoolff.com/.

 

This guys owns a bike and makes highly recommended replacement struts.

 

dave

 

I just ordered a pair 90.00 including shipping. I am riding to Alaska this summer and do not want to have to deal with a broken strut as I have been riding with a large Cee Bailey screen for the last 2 years. I am hedging my bets.

[Limecreek]

I have a spare set of R12RT windshield struts (BMW) if anyone needs a set. PM me and we can make a deal.

[lopaca]

I have a spare set of R12RT windshield struts (BMW) if anyone needs a set. PM me and we can make a deal.

 

You're killing me! Just ordered a set two days ago.

[jimfastcar]

I also have a set if anybody wants a source in Canada

[Tetz]

 

Mine broke on the road too. Rode with the windshield in low position all the way home BUT learned this. Get some JB Weld and fix the broken arm until the new one gets in. The other method I learned of was to go to a Walmart (or similar) and get a small rubber ball. Put it under the windshield between the dash and close the winshield on the ball. Should help you get home.

 

Good luck.......

[Tetz]

I followed these directions which I found on another forum and I have modified. I think it could be done without a second set of hands...but it sure was easier having someone hold the dash up and hold a flashlight when putting them back together. The first time I did it I had my daughter help me...the second and third time I did it alone and found it quite easy.

 

This sounds a little tough...............BUT .

 

So just follow these...and you will be fine:

 

remove all torx bolts holding windscreen on.

 

- pull of windscreen frame mount (black plastic piece over both arm structures; it just pulls off)

 

- remove 2 black-coated torx screws on the top of the dashboard.

 

- remove both mirrors (just pull straight back), then unscrew both torx screws holding dashboard face on. Now that dashboard piece will peel back far enough to see the top portion of the mounts.

 

- Pull off the circlips that are holding on the short 1" or so "axle" for the front/lower mount on each arm. We used a small flathead screwdriver. THESE are small "c" type clips.

 

- Remove the axle; I get it out by putting a small awl on it and (very lightly) tapping with a rubber mallet.

 

- Peel back the dashboard piece, and remove the circlips on the axles that hold the top/back part of the windscreen mounts. Remove the axle the same way (I use the same awl, and the rubber mallet to very lightly tap it out). Make sure to keep hold of the spring, and take note of how the spring is attached on the mount. Do ONE side only! Look at how the spring is attached to both the arm and as IMPORTANT look at how it is positioned on the bike. The reason I suggest doing ONE side at a time is I needed to look at one side to remember how to put the spring back in the right way.

 

- With the support arms now completely free, just remove the bushings (used a small flathead screwdriver to put right in the middle and twist) THIS is an easy step to forget...MAKE SURE YOU TAKE OUT AND REPLACE THE BLACK BUSHINGS.

 

- Pull back the dash panel (an extra set of hands helps here), and install one of the new arms with the spring attached correctly. Continued below at ****

 

OR do this and leave the spring OFF.....

 

On the back of the spring, there is small raised clip that catches on the OUTSIDE of the cup that holds the spring/arm assembly. The easiest way to do is to leave the spring OFF the arm when you reassemble and then lift the spring back up and over the support arm after you have the pin and C clip reinstalled.

 

I found it easier to leave the spring OFF until it was assembled...then take a needle nose and put the spring over the arm.

 

***(continued from above)…Slide in the axle, this takes some doing to get right. You may want to grease this axle before replacing it. I HAD to use a little grease on the axle and I further suggest to slide the axel in and out of the NEW arms to make sure it fits... I had to use a round file and with a few strokes on the inside of the new arms to get it to fit. It is meant to be tight....but my new arms were to tight. I use the awl and a rubber mallet to lightly tap it all the way back in, then replace the circlip on the end to hold it in. Reinstall the other side as well.

 

- replace the bushing onto one of the arms, then replace the axle that holds it to the windshield support frame. (Regrease the axle as necessary). Once in, use the circlip to lock into place. Repeat for the other side.

 

- Reinstall mirrors, reinstall screws on top of dash, reinstall windscreen base support, reinstall windshield.

 

- Have a beer.

 

 

[krussell]

Well, I shouldn't have read this thread. Took a ride this afternoon, about 4 hours total. Did a ferry crossing about 30 minutes from home. Came over a bump as I exited the ferry and the left one snapped. Dropped the windshield as soon as I noticed, but some where between there and home the right one snapped. I have a Cee Bailey +4H +2W and have had it on my bike for all but a month or two of the 18 mos I've owned it. Spent last weekend in about 700 miles of very intense wind. Then today it was pretty windy too. So it all came to fruition as I hit that bump coming off the ferry.

 

I'm doing the Lee Parks Total Control class tomorrow in Olympia WA, and really want to do it on my RT. I just pulled the windshield and the mounting hardware all off. Looks funny, but it's quieter and safer than the Cee Bailey resting in the down position. Have the West Tool page open in another window, I'll be going that route.

[BeemerLover]

Question: does the rod snap at the thin area close to the windshield?

 

[cali_beemer]

I was just on a road trip and noticed the right side of the windshield was flopping when I went over a curb. The windshield still moves up and down just fine and holds itself upright fine even in the elevated position. However you can tell something on that side is loose. I havent pulled it apart yet but my guess is that this is the problem. I should note that I have the stock windshield. The bike now has about 26,000 miles.

 

 

[krussell]

Question: does the rod snap at the thin area close to the windshield?

 

Both sides of mine broke on the end closest to the windshield.

[BeemerLover]

Thanks, Kevin!

 

I think I will take some JB Weld and stiff wire and reinforce that area a bit....

 

[Limecreek]

Three years and 33K and my arms did not fail. I did keep a spare set in my kit, but fortunately never needed to dig them out.

 

It is hard to understand how this part is failing? It is a beefy piece of metal.

[RTinNC]

Just interested as to whether all broken arms are on taller/wider shields? Most seem to be on the Cee Bailey's or similar where the shield is +"X" taller and +"X" wider. While I bought a set of the West Tool arms just in case I have not needed them. I am running the standard size Ztechnik shield. Just would be interested to know it any failed on say a stock shield?

 

Sorry if has been asked and answered before.

[Fightingpiper]

I am running a large Cal-sci windscreen. I am the only one I know of who has broken an arm while running a cal-sci.

[krussell]

I don't think it is simply an oversize issue. I think there are many other factors including:

 

- How fast do you ride?

- How much wind do you ride in? A fair weather rider will put a lot less stress on any shield than someone who regularly endures high wind.

- How rough are the roads you ride? This is subjective too, but someone who regularly rides a lot of rough roads, or washboard gravel etc. is going to introduce a lot of stress too.

- What position is your windshield normally in? I'm not a mechanical engineer, but it seems like the loads might be different based on the amount the shield is raised or lowered.

 

An interesting data point would be hearing from those with a STOCK shield that have had a failure?

[Alan D]

Which struts are breaking, lower or higher?

[krussell]

Mine were the top ones.

[Fightingpiper]

top

[Tetz]

I am not 100 percent sure...but I believe the item is cast iron. It looks beefy, but is fairly brittle. Just my guess.

[pdes]

Left hand broke yesterday for the second time - got a CalSci screen fitted. Having said that, I ride fast for 120 miles a day in all weathers on motorways and the wind buffetting at 80+ mph is increddible. (I am averaging 52mph over 25k miles!) I often look at the screen bouncing and vibrating in the strong gusts and wonder how they survive such pressures! What I don't understand though is that the mechanism should be capable of sustaining 120mph with a stock screen, so a slightly larger screen at much lower speeds should not add extra stresses to the design tollerances. Anyway, mine goes in for repair next week under warranty. Last time it took the dealer the best part of three hours to strip down the front to change the strut. How long does it take the average DIYer?

[pdes]

It is hard to understand how this part is failing? It is a beefy piece of metal.

Metal? Mine are plastic (I think)

[10ovr]

It is hard to understand how this part is failing? It is a beefy piece of metal.

Metal? Mine are plastic (I think)

Pot Metal

[Limecreek]

What kind of Pot?

[dnorrell]

Left hand broke yesterday for the second time - got a CalSci screen fitted. Having said that, I ride fast for 120 miles a day in all weathers on motorways and the wind buffetting at 80+ mph is increddible. (I am averaging 52mph over 25k miles!) I often look at the screen bouncing and vibrating in the strong gusts and wonder how they survive such pressures! What I don't understand though is that the mechanism should be capable of sustaining 120mph with a stock screen, so a slightly larger screen at much lower speeds should not add extra stresses to the design tollerances. Anyway, mine goes in for repair next week under warranty. Last time it took the dealer the best part of three hours to strip down the front to change the strut. How long does it take the average DIYer?

I have taken the entire front end off of the bike a couple of times fooling with satellite radio and the like. It takes me about 30 minutes to get it all off, but a bit longer (maybe 40?) to put it all back on. With that being said, I am not sure you have to take off as much as I do to do the fix to replace the struts. Wouldn't hurt though...$0.02

[krussell]

I ordered my replacement struts on Monday, and they got her Wednesday via US mail. Decided to replace them tonight. I ran through the instructions on the BMW Service DVD. The high level process was:

 

- remove windshield

- remove left and right fairing trim

- remove mirrors

- remove instrument panel trim

- remove pins from lower end of windshield mounts

- strap windshield mounts back to handlebars to hold in place

- remove entire front fairing w/headlight assembly etc.

 

Once all that is done you have easy access to what you need.

 

After you replace each strut one at a time you reverse the order making sure to lube the pins and springs.

 

I spent 1.25 hours on it. I'd say about 1/2 an hour of taking everything apart to get to the struts, then 15 minutes to replace and lube the struts, then 1/2 an hour to put it back together. I took several pictures along the way.

 

http://krussell.smugmug.com/gallery/8140799_WgSkH/1/531030830_VsMcb

[pdes]

I ordered my replacement struts on Monday, and they got her Wednesday via US mail. Decided to replace them tonight. I ran through the instructions on the BMW Service DVD. The high level process was:

 

- remove windshield

- remove left and right fairing trim

- remove mirrors

- remove instrument panel trim

- remove pins from lower end of windshield mounts

- strap windshield mounts back to handlebars to hold in place

- remove entire front fairing w/headlight assembly etc.

 

 

http://krussell.smugmug.com/gallery/8140799_WgSkH/1/531030830_VsMcb

Many thanks for this!

[Fightingpiper]

I did mine last night and I didn't remove the front fairing and healight assembly. only took off left and right top fairing and instrument panel trim. Might save you some time...

Edited May 8, 2009 by Fightingpiper

[krussell]

I did mine last night and I didn't remove the front fairing and healight assembly. only took off left and right top fairing and instrument panel trim. Might save you some time...

 

Oops. I was following the BMW DVD instructions for replacing the windshield mount assembly or something like that. It's under the front fairing/headlight assembly which is why they suggest you take it off. It's only four screws and one plug, so I didn't waste much time and had an excellent working area.

[okiebiker]

Thanks everyone for the assistance.

[lopaca]

Mine finally went after about 2 years.

 

Right side - broke at the top as well.

 

Happened when I road on dirt/gravel roads on the Cassiar Highway in British Columbia.

 

Really my fault. I was so worried about the surface of the road that I forgot to lower the shield, bigger Cee Bailey.

 

I will be putting on the heavier duty ones this weekend.

[Ray R]

 

So just follow these...and you will be fine:

 

remove all torx bolts holding windscreen on.

 

- pull of windscreen frame mount (black plastic piece over both arm structures; it just pulls off)

 

- remove 2 black-coated torx screws on the top of the dashboard.

 

- remove both mirrors (just pull straight back), then unscrew both torx screws holding dashboard face on. Now that dashboard piece will peel back far enough to see the top portion of the mounts.

 

- Pull off the circlips that are holding on the short 1" or so "axle" for the front/lower mount on each arm. We used a small flathead screwdriver. THESE are small "c" type clips.

 

- Remove the axle; I get it out by putting a small awl on it and (very lightly) tapping with a rubber mallet.

 

- Peel back the dashboard piece, and remove the circlips on the axles that hold the top/back part of the windscreen mounts. Remove the axle the same way (I use the same awl, and the rubber mallet to very lightly tap it out). Make sure to keep hold of the spring, and take note of how the spring is attached on the mount. Do ONE side only! Look at how the spring is attached to both the arm and as IMPORTANT look at how it is positioned on the bike. The reason I suggest doing ONE side at a time is I needed to look at one side to remember how to put the spring back in the right way.

 

- With the support arms now completely free, just remove the bushings (used a small flathead screwdriver to put right in the middle and twist) THIS is an easy step to forget...MAKE SURE YOU TAKE OUT AND REPLACE THE BLACK BUSHINGS.

 

- Pull back the dash panel (an extra set of hands helps here), and install one of the new arms with the spring attached correctly. Slide in the axle, this takes some doing to get right. You may want to grease this axle before replacing it. I HAD to use a little grease on the axle and I further suggest to slide the axel in and out of the NEW arms to make sure it fits... I had to use a round file and with a few strokes on the inside of the new arms to get it to fit. It is meant to be tight....but my new arms were to tight. I use the awl and a rubber mallet to lightly tap it all the way back in, then replace the circlip on the end to hold it in. Reinstall the other side as well.

 

- replace the bushing onto one of the arms, then replace the axle that holds it to the windshield support frame. (Regrease the axle as necessary). Once in, use the circlip to lock into place. Repeat for the other side.

 

- Reinstall mirrors, reinstall screws on top of dash, reinstall windscreen base support, reinstall windshield.

 

Thanks for the instructions. I followed these and they were right on. While I had it apart, I also installed the dual horn setup.

[RodB]

 

So just follow these...and you will be fine:

 

remove all torx bolts holding windscreen on.

 

- pull of windscreen frame mount (black plastic piece over both arm structures; it just pulls off)

 

- remove 2 black-coated torx screws on the top of the dashboard.

 

- remove both mirrors (just pull straight back), then unscrew both torx screws holding dashboard face on. Now that dashboard piece will peel back far enough to see the top portion of the mounts.

 

- Pull off the circlips that are holding on the short 1" or so "axle" for the front/lower mount on each arm. We used a small flathead screwdriver. THESE are small "c" type clips.

 

- Remove the axle; I get it out by putting a small awl on it and (very lightly) tapping with a rubber mallet.

 

- Peel back the dashboard piece, and remove the circlips on the axles that hold the top/back part of the windscreen mounts. Remove the axle the same way (I use the same awl, and the rubber mallet to very lightly tap it out). Make sure to keep hold of the spring, and take note of how the spring is attached on the mount. Do ONE side only! Look at how the spring is attached to both the arm and as IMPORTANT look at how it is positioned on the bike. The reason I suggest doing ONE side at a time is I needed to look at one side to remember how to put the spring back in the right way.

 

- With the support arms now completely free, just remove the bushings (used a small flathead screwdriver to put right in the middle and twist) THIS is an easy step to forget...MAKE SURE YOU TAKE OUT AND REPLACE THE BLACK BUSHINGS.

 

- Pull back the dash panel (an extra set of hands helps here), and install one of the new arms with the spring attached correctly. Slide in the axle, this takes some doing to get right. You may want to grease this axle before replacing it. I HAD to use a little grease on the axle and I further suggest to slide the axel in and out of the NEW arms to make sure it fits... I had to use a round file and with a few strokes on the inside of the new arms to get it to fit. It is meant to be tight....but my new arms were to tight. I use the awl and a rubber mallet to lightly tap it all the way back in, then replace the circlip on the end to hold it in. Reinstall the other side as well.

 

- replace the bushing onto one of the arms, then replace the axle that holds it to the windshield support frame. (Regrease the axle as necessary). Once in, use the circlip to lock into place. Repeat for the other side.

 

- Reinstall mirrors, reinstall screws on top of dash, reinstall windscreen base support, reinstall windshield.

 

Thanks for the instructions. I followed these and they were right on. While I had it apart, I also installed the dual horn setup.

 

My left side strut broke after 45K km's with a Z-Technik windshield. I replaced both sides with a set from Westtools. I didn't follow any instructions, but if I would've needed to; these ones would have served the purpose brilliantly.

[Dave4583]

The lower strut broke on my 07 the other day.  Have just pulled it apart and can't see how to remove the lower strut.  Looks like a pressed fit to a hex rod.  Anyone replaced the lower strut?    My younger brother has just installed a cnc router so thought I'd take the good one off and draw it up and see if he can make me a couple.  And yes I have a large airflow screen.

Any help would be appreciated.

Dave

 

[Rougarou]

If I recall when I changed one of mine out, I just wedged a screwdriver in and pried it off.  Should eventually pop loose.

[dirtrider]

8 hours ago, Dave4583 said:

The lower strut broke on my 07 the other day.  Have just pulled it apart and can't see how to remove the lower strut.  Looks like a pressed fit to a hex rod.  Anyone replaced the lower strut?    My younger brother has just installed a cnc router so thought I'd take the good one off and draw it up and see if he can make me a couple.  And yes I have a large airflow screen.

Any help would be appreciated.

Dave

 

Morning Dave

 

Some are lightly pressed on, others can be a real pain to get off. I usually cut a couple of notch's in on back side of the arm (behind the arm) large enough to get a small puller in then use a small gear puller to remove. 

 

I haven't ever encountered it but I have heard of some hex shafts that were lightly peened on the outer end preventing the arm from easily coming off (verify that yours are not peened, if they are then you will have to grind the peening off to remove).

 

The new arm needs to be a fairly tight precision fit to stay on so I doubt a CNC router type machine will be able to make proper fitting  hex hole. Probably have to make the hex hole with a proper broach.   

 

I don't know if West tool is still making replacement alloy arms but you can try them___

 

Don Westra

West Tool & Design Inc.

1220 North Tower Road

Fergus Falls, MN 56537

Phone: 218-739-4990

 

 

[BrianM]

Also Beemer Boneyard shows them for sale.

 

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/windshields.html

[Hati]

I have replaced the upper pair already and have the Boneyard sourced lower once on the ready, but the original arms are still going strong, so I did not need to check for fit of the lowers yet. Sorry.

[Dave4583]

Thank

11 hours ago, Rougarou said:

If I recall when I changed one of mine out, I just wedged a screwdriver in and pried it off.  Should eventually pop loose.

Thanks.  I tried to see if there was any movement but nothing gives.  I'll spray with some penetrating lube and let sit for a couple of days and try again.

 

DaveR

 

[Dave4583]

11 hours ago, dirtrider said:

I haven't ever encountered it but I have heard of some hex shafts that were lightly peened on the outer end preventing the arm from easily coming off (verify that yours are not peened, if they are then you will have to grind the peening off to remove).

 

Thanks

I don't think it's peened.  Was thinking I'd try a gear puller will let you know how I get on.

 

[Dave4583]

10 hours ago, BrianM said:

Also Beemer Boneyard shows them for sale.

 

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/windshields.html

Thanks

Have just emailed to see if they have both upper and lower in stock and if yes what they think the chances of getting them to New Zealand before the end of March.  Have a 4k ride planed for April that was canceled last year because of lock down and now they have Auckland in level 3 and the rest of us in level 2 as of last night.

 

DaveR

[Rougarou]

10 hours ago, BrianM said:

Also Beemer Boneyard shows them for sale.

 

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/windshields.html

 

That's where I picked mine up.

 

30 minutes ago, Dave4583 said:

Thank

Thanks.  I tried to see if there was any movement but nothing gives.  I'll spray with some penetrating lube and let sit for a couple of days and try again.

 

DaveR

 

 

That sucks, good luck.  Maybe this will help, I remember it not being difficult to get off and I know for sure I didn't pull the whole motor assembly out (I'm much too lazy for that)