HID freaking great!

[VinnyR11]

I know HID has been talked about in a number of posts. As a matter of fact, those posts are the reasons I bought a VMME HID kit (thanks much to all for valued recommendations). I feel like the 93 year old guy in the old joke where he confesses to the priest that he had sex with his wife. When the priest asked why he's confessing having sex with his own wife, he says "I'm 93. I had to tell somebody."

 

So,sorry that there are other posts, but I have to tell somebody.

 

This kit is without question the best money I have ever spent on my bike. If you have an older RT or other bike with poor lighting, you should scrounge up the relatively little dough and get one of these kits. I bought the kit just for my low beam, and to coin a phrase, it is literally night and day comparing my old high beam with the new low beam. I live in an area with many curvy streets with no street lights. For the first time I felt safe riding at night. When I saw the difference in light, I was kicking myself for waiting so long. I thought a lot of my problem was just age and decreased night vision.

 

I've seen and ridden some bikes with auxiliary lighting, but if your objective is to see (vs. being seen), I think these win by a large margin for bang for your buck.

 

You can link to VMME HERE No affiliation. Just very happy.

 

Note: Shipping is expensive. DHL $26 from China.

[OoPEZoO]

Glad you're happy with it........BUT you should have got the kit with little built in servo that allows them to function as a low and high beam. As good as the low beam is, the high beam is just plain incredible.

 

I left the BRR yesterday about an hour before the sun came up so it was pitch black and not much traffic. I always forget how good it really is until I get into that type of situation.

[VinnyR11]

Glad you're happy with it........BUT you should have got the kit with little built in servo that allows them to function as a low and high beam. As good as the low beam is, the high beam is just plain incredible.

 

I left the BRR yesterday about an hour before the sun came up so it was pitch black and not much traffic. I always forget how good it really is until I get into that type of situation.

 

My thoughts exactly after trying out the low beam. The high beam must be amazing.

 

My mechanic agreed to buy the parts for one of his bikes if I want to upgrade at a later date. He gladly bought the extra light kit that came with this kit, and was shocked at the cost/quality/easy install of the kit. He said he's spent around that much just on replacement bulbs. I may do the high beam upgrade next season as a birthday gift.

[OoPEZoO]

I know quite a few guys who have found good deals on car kits (with two sets of lights) on ebay. They use one, and then sell the other for the same price they paid for the entire kit. For some reason, people tend to feel more comfortable buying from the classifieds instead of Ebay. Personaly, I've never had anything but good luck.

[Rocer]

Vinny and Keith, thanks for these posts.

 

I've been casually following any posts regarding HID lighting since I purchased my R1100RT last fall. Living rural, night rides are problematic especially in the spring bug season when critters move out of the bush onto open roadways for some relief.

 

Can you clear up my confusion as to why purchasers of the HID systems don't start with highbeam first and low beam secondary to get maximum reach right from the get-go. From what I've read you'd both recommend both high and low beams at the outset.

 

Could you both comment on the colour you chose.

 

thanks

Paul D.

[smiller]

Yes, an HID upgrade is very effective on the 1100RT, finally I have as much light as I want. The reflector assembly (being designed for a much dimmer incandescent lamp) is almost too efficient for HID and you do have to aim the lamp carefully to make sure that the sharp horizontal cutoff is where it need to be to avoid blinding drivers. But man, a 35-watt HID capsule in that reflector assembly is frickin' bright (and probably illegal, but who's counting...) I'm also drawing 65 watts less than the 100-watt incandescent lamp it replaced, with a lot more light to show for it.

 

Regarding the high/low beam thing, I am also using only the low beam (the high/low HID kits seemed flakey to me but I hear that they are better now.) I have a set of Hella FF50's on EMP brackets and they do so well that I don't have a problem on high beam, it was the low beam I was trying to address. I operate the HID on low beam and turn on the Hella's for high beam. Having both on at the same time is plenty bright from directly in front of me all the way out to the hidden deer staging themselves way down the road.

 

Now... maybe some H7 HID lamp replacements in the Hella's..? Seriously, I am concerned that may even be too bright, enough to reduce my night vision and cause blinding reflections from road signs. Would like to hear if anyone has done this yet.

[SageRider]

HID lights have a delay of up to a minute to come to full brightness. This makes them unsuitable for single beam high beam use.

 

When dual beam bulbs are involved as on the H4 used in an R1100-RT, then a solenoid is typically used to move the HID capsule to emulate the different positions of the dual filament stock bulb. Generally called Bi-Xenon, this can be very effective.

 

I had a Bi-Xenon setup on my R1100-RT. It was too effective. Road was very bright over a wide range, but outside that range, the contrast was so great that it was pitch black.

In addition, the reflection off of highway signs was nearly blinding.

 

I have not converted my R1200-RT

[OoPEZoO]

Can you clear up my confusion as to why purchasers of the HID systems don't start with highbeam first and low beam secondary to get maximum reach right from the get-go. From what I've read you'd both recommend both high and low beams at the outset.

 

Could you both comment on the colour you chose.

 

thanks

Paul D.

 

Well.....I think it has more to do with what is available from the manufacturers. I've seen plenty of HID low/Halogen high beam systems, and also the biXenon setups that give you HID low/high with the use of a servo built into the base of the bulb. I have NOT seen a Halogen low/HID high beam system. Not saying they aren't out there, but I just don't recall seeing them. I think people are just afraid to take the plunge or are skittish about screwing around with their electrical system. I've talked a few people into picking up HIDs for the the 1100 (mostly privatly through PMs do to some peoples strong feelings on the subject), and have recieved quite an overwelming thank you from those people after they finaly pulled the trigger.

 

As far as what color......stick with white light and stay in the 4-5k range of bulbs. Anything above that gives a blueish tint and actually gives you less usable light.

[AviP]

I've talked a few people into picking up HIDs for the the 1100 (mostly privatly through PMs do to some peoples strong feelings on the subject), and have recieved quite an overwelming thank you from those people after they finaly pulled the trigger.

Can you post some links to your suggestions for an '00 1100RT? I've procrastinated long enough on this.

[Edgar]

Here you go

[lvnvbiker]

dont try a group buy from those guys! FLTRI and I tried, they add 25 bucks shipping to every item and have yet to respond to my Email( 1 1/2 weeks). Fair pricing and cool products but rip off shipping so far.

[eddd]

I have the HID conversion on my RT. I've found that the perfect aim for the low beam made the high beam much too high. I've basically give up on ever using the high beam. Like smiller, I have EMP brackets, but I run PIAA 004XT 50 watt halogen as my high beam. This works OK, but I'm not completely satified.

 

The low beam is an HUGE improvement, and highly recommended. Other models may not raise the high beam as much as mine and thereby may be suitable.

 

I will say that road signs, driveway and mailbox makers, bridge markers and like can be a problem on high beam, even when adjusted to an optimal level. The reflection from these markers can be very distracting, even to the point of being blinding if there are several of them or they are large.

 

Still I search for a better solution. I just ordered a set of Trail Tech HID driving lights. Before ordering I called and explained that I was interested, but unsure if the improvement would be worth the $325.00. I explained that I would simply power one of the HIDs to see for myself if this was going to work. I've been ensured that I can return the lights as long as I don't cut wires or damage them in anyway.

 

I would expect the lights to be here in about a week, and will report my findings at that time.

[smiller]

I have the HID conversion on my RT. I've found that the perfect aim for the low beam made the high beam much too high.

That's probably a good point. Even though manufacturers attempt to achieve the same filament location/orientation in the replacement HID capsule you can't count focus points to be exactly the same as the original H4 lamp. By adjusting the reflector assembly you can get a proper light pattern location for the low beam or high beam, but you may not get both. This was another issue that I wanted to avoid by going with a low beam-only kit, and using separate driving lights for high beam.

[OoPEZoO]

Can you post some links to your suggestions for an '00 1100RT? I've procrastinated long enough on this.

 

I can't really post any specific suggestions. My HID light was installed on my bike by the previous owner and has been on the bike for at least 6-7 years and well over 80k miles so I have no clue where it came from originaly. I would look on Ebay for a biXenon kit that is in the 4-5k light range from a seller with a well organized listing and good feedback.

[VinnyR11]

Vinny and Keith, thanks for these posts.

 

I've been casually following any posts regarding HID lighting since I purchased my R1100RT last fall. Living rural, night rides are problematic especially in the spring bug season when critters move out of the bush onto open roadways for some relief.

 

Can you clear up my confusion as to why purchasers of the HID systems don't start with highbeam first and low beam secondary to get maximum reach right from the get-go. From what I've read you'd both recommend both high and low beams at the outset.

 

Could you both comment on the colour you chose.

 

thanks

Paul D.

 

Paul,

 

I went with the low beam first because there is a lot of traffic where I ride. I needed max light that I didn't have to keep dimming. As above, now knowing how effective it is, I would have gone for both High and Low, and will most likely do that next season.

 

The color I went with was 4300K temperature. Nice bright white light.

 

I've read another post that says there is a "delay" with the light coming on. I have no delay, and know of no technical reasons why there would be any noticeable delay.

 

 

[SageRider]

I've read another post that says there is a "delay" with the light coming on.

Vinny,

Are you saying that your HID lights come on at full brightness with zero delay on startup?

[flars]

"Are you saying that your HID lights come on at full brightness with zero delay on startup"

Yes. The bixenon uses one HID capsule, and the capsule has an internal shield around it. There is a solenoid that draws the shield back a small distance (quarter inch maybe??) which changes the focal point thereby providing a 'high beam'. When the light is first turned on, the shield is in the high beam position, and immediately drops back to the low beam position so at startup there is a flare of bright light which drops back to the low beam setting.

 

[SageRider]

I'm not talking about an already on bi-xenon unit switching between hi and low positions. I'm talking about a single fixed position xenon bulb and it's startup time.

(Was I unclear in my post above???)

[VinnyR11]

I've read another post that says there is a "delay" with the light coming on.

Vinny,

Are you saying that your HID lights come on at full brightness with zero delay on startup?

 

Yes, at least nothing that I can notice. If they're not full brightness, then they are very, very close and MUCH brighter than non-HID immediately. Same on cars with HID. From what I've read that is the reason they use Xenon in cars/bikes vs. Argon as is used in street lamps. Street lamps take a very long time to come to full brightness, and cars/bikes can't use lights with delay times.

 

Also, keep in mind that the brights use the same bulb, so even if there is a couple second delay (maybe from the time I turn the key, to the time I ride there's a brightening, but I can't notice), it won't matter because the bulb is already lit at full brightness. In any case, in the actual application, you will never be riding without full brightness.

[SageRider]

Vinny,

That's great then. Technology has improved tremendously since my kit (which was Xenon, but needed about 30 seconds to build to full brightness).

[OoPEZoO]

Vinny,

That's great then. Technology has improved tremendously since my kit (which was Xenon, but needed about 30 seconds to build to full brightness).

 

Mine probably takes maybe 5-10 sec to get to full brightness. I've heard a few objections to the "safety" of not having it at full brightness. Whenever it comes up I pretty much tell people that there is no way you could ever fire the bike up and have it moving before it is at full brightness. By the time I switch the key on and get back to the starter button, it is at full brightness.

[SageRider]

It's only in the role of a dedicated high beam where the delay is an issue. Turn on your high beam then wait.....

[Bill Dennes]

Mine (from Xenon Depot in Canada), too. Flashes brightly when it strikes, then seems to need to warm up.

[Huzband]

It's only in the role of a dedicated high beam where the delay is an issue. Turn on your high beam then wait.....

 

That's just what I'm contemplating now. Tired of feeding the 12RT bulbs, I'm going HID.

 

But do I get a second kit for the high beam, or just forgo the use of high beam. I'm pretty sure the halogen bulb will be useless once the HID's are in there.

[Mighty Manfred]

I put this HID kit into my bike. Low and high beam are on target. It's the lowest cost US-based solution I found. I had previously bought and installed on another bike a lower cost HID bi-xenon from an Asian firm. Warranty service has been pitiful. Saving $8 up front cost me the price of a kit.

[FLTRI]

dont try a group buy from those guys! FLTRI and I tried, they add 25 bucks shipping to every item and have yet to respond to my Email( 1 1/2 weeks). Fair pricing and cool products but rip off shipping so far.

 

Wondered what happened with them. Has anyone used these guys kits? Looks pretty nice, and the price seems in line. Found the link on a local sport bike forum, response seemed positive...

 

I'm a little confused with the high beam discussion. On a 2005+ RT that has a separate high beam bulb (off on low beam) will a HID H7 bulb function correctly? Is there a delay with hitting the high beam switch? How does the ballast/bulb deal with repeated toggling?

 

TIA

Dan

[CruisinCruzan]

I was never able to find any good info about the effect of frequent on-off switching on the ballast if I put in a high beam HID (have low beam HIDs) so I put in a mild overwattage halogen bulb and added HID driving lamps that when turned on are slaved to the high beams. I was never that impressed with the beam pattern of the high beam so I find the driving lights really add useful high beam light that also is better focused IMO. I used the Hella DE driving lights. Martin Fabrication has a set that look like PIAA 1100X lamps that have had HID bulbs placed into them.

[Indy Dave]

I was never able to find any good info about the effect of frequent on-off switching on the ballast if I put in a high beam HID (have low beam HIDs) so I put in a mild overwattage halogen bulb and added HID driving lamps that when turned on are slaved to the high beams. I was never that impressed with the beam pattern of the high beam so I find the driving lights really add useful high beam light that also is better focused IMO. I used the Hella DE driving lights. Martin Fabrication has a set that look like PIAA 1100X lamps that have had HID bulbs placed into them.

 

Do you notice any effect from the over-wattage bulb? I've got a set of PIAA 1200's on the forks (brighter than the 1100x), and they are a nice addition. But I find the standard high beam adds very little to what I'm already seeing.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

For a separate high beam, to go HID you need a three lead HID bulb of whatever the high bulb configuration is...H7 for you 1200 guys????. Don't know if it is made though. It might be wise to also check the low beam for number of prongs also so that you get the right kit since it may need a solenoid/cover too. Look at recent euro and high end japanese cars with HID. The high beams are always on but, they shine only as if backlit. The third prong is the solenoid/cover activation to allow the light to hit the reflector. Flick the lever, leeeeever if in England, and the high beam illuminates the roadway.

 

HID IS freaking great BTW.

[Huzband]

I just ordered this kit.

 

I talked with the guy on the phone about high beam, & he set me up with half an H7 kit to use there. He uses the same setup on his CBR, & claimed it works great.

 

I should have it by next Tuesday, & I'll report back once it's installed.

[FLTRI]

Appears to be the same site I was looking at. Why did you decide to go with the slim digital ballast, instead of the standard one?

 

Looking forward to a report on how their stuff works out...

[VinnyR11]

Appears to be the same site I was looking at. Why did you decide to go with the slim digital ballast, instead of the standard one?

 

Looking forward to a report on how their stuff works out...

 

I have the same question. Their website says it prevents a "nightmare install" but, I had my mechanic install mine (non-"digital") and he said the install was so easy that he couldn't charge for time. I gave him the unused half of my kit as a thanks.

 

Maybe it's s different story on newer bikes.

[Huzband]

Appears to be the same site I was looking at. Why did you decide to go with the slim digital ballast, instead of the standard one?

 

Looking forward to a report on how their stuff works out...

 

I have the same question. Their website says it prevents a "nightmare install" but, I had my mechanic install mine (non-"digital") and he said the install was so easy that he couldn't charge for time. I gave him the unused half of my kit as a thanks.

 

Maybe it's s different story on newer bikes.

 

The guy on the phone (David, I think) said the digital ballasts are more resistant to vibration than the analog, thus more durable on a bike. It was my own determination to spend a few extra bucks for that.

 

YMMV.

[EffBee]

When I installed the bi-xenon headlight on my old 1100RT, I drove it around that evening in my SoCal location and was entirely unimpressed. I didn't see any additional illumination at all. But I'd spent quite a bit of time on the project and the tupperware was all buttoned up, so I left it alone as Torrey was just two weeks away.

 

Fast forward two weeks. I'm now on my way to Mesquite, NV, having left SoCal on a Thursday afternoon. Clearing Las Vegas at twilight, Bruce LaQuinta and I were in the pitch black of Hwy 93, where the glow of Sin City is but a distant spec in our mirrors. Without any city lights, and being two weeks different from my initial test (and thus there being absolutely no moon), the light output was utterly fantastic. Then, just for giggles, on an empty stretch where the nearest oncoming car was at least a couple of miles away, I hit the hi-beam. HOLY MOTHER OF JOSEPH!!!

 

Within a few seconds that oncoming car was flashing us. Or at least we thought so. It's puny light output at that distance made it tough to tell. But it could sure see my headlight. And whoever it was didn't like it.

 

Later, up 93, there are some very large dunes between the NB and SB sections of 93, as the highway was cut through them. The headlight made daylight seem like a REDUCTION in illumination as we flew through the area at close to a ton.

 

Fitting an HID to a bike is hit and miss. The secret is a quality product whose light source is EXACTLY where it is on the halogen bulb it replaces. The parabolic reflector is shaped specifically based on the location of that light source. Off by .1mm and the entire light pattern can fall apart. Off by more than that and all you've got is a very bright candle.

 

For that reason, I paid a princely sum those years ago for that HID kit (about $350). And it worked flawlessly. These days, the less expensive ones may now be as accurate as the more expensive ones. I don't know. But do your research and see what's working on bikes like yours.

 

[Huzband]

HID kit came the other day. Stripped the bike & plugged them in for a quick test last night and....seems the 12RT can't handle the voltage of both low beams. It'll only light one or the other. So, a quick call to David got me a relay harness on the way.

 

Darn things will certainly melt your retinas, though.

[Matts_12GS]

I'm with you Fernando...

 

During the 50cc run across AZ in dead of night was pretty cool to see just how far you can really see with that stuff on there.

 

With HID high beams and 50W halogens in the moto lights I was probably really easy to see a long ways away.