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How to Change Clutch Fluid on r1100rt???


kobi1

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Does anyone know how to change the clutch fluid on a 2000 r1100rt? I am sure there is a post somewhere but I could not find it with the search function.

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I'll bite... clutch fluid?

Again... CLUTCH fluid???

 

I'm hooked deep, please cut me loose. :dopeslap:

 

You have a cable actuated clutch not a hydraulic one. So no fluid to change...you WIN! :clap:

 

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Does anyone know how to change the clutch fluid on a 2000 r1100rt? I am sure there is a post somewhere but I could not find it with the search function.

 

kobi1, why are you asking? As Tony mentioned your clutch is cable operated so there is no fluid to change..

 

There are 2 adjustments though,, one up on the handlebars where the cable attaches to the lever & one on the rear of the trans where the cable hooks to the trans..

 

If you have a clutch lever,, release,, or slippage problem maybe a simple clutch cable adjustment will help..

 

Let us know why you are asking?

 

Twisty

 

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I am trying to do my 12000 mile maintenance. In the IBMWR maintenance manual it mentions replacing the clutch fluid. Since this is my first crack at maintenance, I was trying to change all the fluids. Perhaps the r1100gs or another model has a hydraulic clutch since this manual is somewhat generic?

 

I can see that there is no handlebar resevoir and there is a cable coming out of the clutch. Since I had read that the clutch fluid needed to be replaced, I thought that the cable connected to a master cylinder somewhere and then converted to hydraulic. You guys are telling me this is wrong...

 

What is strange, is that I have even read there is a bleeder somewhere on the right side of the bike. I think I even came across pictures of it on the web but could not locate the bleeder. (Most likely because it does not exist)

 

As of right now, I am not having any issues with the clutch, I just wanted to make sure all fluids were replaced.

 

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I am trying to do my 12000 mile maintenance. In the IBMWR maintenance manual it mentions replacing the clutch fluid. Since this is my first crack at maintenance, I was trying to change all the fluids. Perhaps the r1100gs or another model has a hydraulic clutch since this manual is somewhat generic?

 

I can see that there is no handlebar resevoir and there is a cable coming out of the clutch. Since I had read that the clutch fluid needed to be replaced, I thought that the cable connected to a master cylinder somewhere and then converted to hydraulic. You guys are telling me this is wrong...

 

What is strange, is that I have even read there is a bleeder somewhere on the right side of the bike. I think I even came across pictures of it on the web but could not locate the bleeder. (Most likely because it does not exist)

 

 

kobi1, you probably should find another maintenance source.. BMW didn’t go to hydraulic clutch on the RT until the 1150 came out..

 

Be very careful in what info you are using for reference (there is some misleading info out there on the internet) as some things are different between the different years & engine sizes on the BMW motorcycles..

 

 

Twisty

 

 

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Yes, Thanks. I am learning that the hard way. I am very thankful for this forum and your help in particular, Twisty. Unfortunately, my CD version of the repair manual crapped out on me just before this maintenance round so I have been using the IBMWR maintenace manual as a guide. Until now, it has been spot on...

 

I may ask stupid questions from time to time so bear with me. I would rather ask a stupid question than make a stupid mistake.

 

Next I will tackle the throttlebody synch and the valve adjustments...

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Mark_Turner

The only stupid question asked is when you already know the answer. Don't ever feel afraid to ask anything here, if you get some smart a&& answers like some do post, never take it personally. 99.9 percent of the people here go out of there way to help people on here and at times the support they do is amazing.

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kobi1 - everyone was new to working on a BMW once upon a time. I would suggest finding a fellow BMW rider near you that can either show you or look over your shoulder while you do your first attempts. They're easy to work on, but also easy to mess up and BMW dealers aren't necessarily nearby.

Where are you located?

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Yeah - where you be? It's always better to have someone there to help the first time.

If you proceed on your own and move on to adjusting the valves, I offer one caveat - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the valve cover bolts (yes, I know I was shouting)...

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Yeah - where you be? It's always better to have someone there to help the first time.

If you proceed on your own and move on to adjusting the valves, I offer one caveat - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN the valve cover bolts (yes, I know I was shouting)...

 

Ditto that. Been there done that, got my "T" shirt and left !! Good luck with your projects and do not be afraid to ask, anytime. :grin:

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Unhofliche_Gesundheit

buy some torque wrenches (they are most accurate mid-range so you need a collection - dont try to use a 150 ft-lb unit on a valve adjust)

 

oh and you actually have to use the torque wrench to avoid striping stuff (damhik)

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Im Based in Gurnee Il. I have a couple of buddies who are pretty good mechanics who help me with mechanical tuning. In this case, I was pretty confident that I could change the fluids without too much fuss. They will definitiely help me with the TB synch and valve adjustment.

 

The r1100rt has proved pretty easy to work on as you mention. In this case, I thought it would be easier to ask you guys before I pulled the tupperware to explore further.

 

Thanks for the advice and the support! This forum is awesome.

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While it has been correctly stated that R1100RT has no hydraulic fluid actuated clutch, it may be helpful to note that its offspring, e.g., R1150RT, do. Thus, our buds at IBMWR are not wrong, just looking at a different (newer generation) oilhead.

Wooster

 

BTW, Be sure to caution your mechanically experienced friends that oilhead valve adjusters as well as the valve cover bolts are very delicate, i.e., needing something like 7 N/m (not Harley's FT/lbs); much more will strip threads

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