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Fork oil seal failure


mikeR1100R

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I have read several accounts of fork seals "weeping" or showing a trace of oil leakage. My left fork seal appears to suddenly have developed a major leak. I mean it was fine one day, we went for a little 75 mile jaunt, and the next day there was a mess all over the left fork leg. Anything I should be looking for when I replace the seals ( I figure I may as well do both fork legs) that would cause a sudden messy failure such as mine? Also the Haynes manual specifies the fork oil as "BMW telescopic fork oil 5W or 10W". Which should I use?

Thanks, Mike

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Once one of the seals fail, I think it just makes a mess. Mine was the same way. One day it was fine, the next day it looked like someone sprayed oil from my triple tree to the brake caliper.

 

The oil doesn't do much as far as dampening goes, so use whatever you like. I picked up a quart of 10W fork oil from my local Kawasaki shop that is down the road.

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I'm in the opposite camp; if you're going to bother with replacing one seal, you may as well replace both while you're at it. The incremental difference in parts and effort isn't that great, and this gives you a chance to suck all the old crap out of the slider, replacing it with clean oil.

 

Following a tip I picked up from a dirt bike rider, mix 25% ATF sealer with the new fork oil. The last time I did this, I used Gunk Transeal, which is about the same viscosity as 10 wt fork oil. This technique also works for weepy seals (mine stopped within 48 hours), but it's probably not going to work with a gusher such as you describe.

 

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Boy is this thread timely.

 

This past weekend i took my '04 RT to get inspected. I had the guy put the NYS inspection sticker up high on the fork tube because last year's sticker wouldn't stick to the nubby (technical term) surface of the fork leg, and blew away.

 

I wasn't 10 miles from the shop when my left fork seal became a geiser of fluid. Related???

 

 

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Boy is this thread timely.

 

This past weekend i took my '04 RT to get inspected. I had the guy put the NYS inspection sticker up high on the fork tube because last year's sticker wouldn't stick to the nubby (technical term) surface of the fork leg, and blew away.

 

I wasn't 10 miles from the shop when my left fork seal became a geiser of fluid. Related???

 

 

umm......am I reading it correctly that you had the guy install the inspection sticker up on the smooth shiny part of the fork tube?

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OK, i hate to admit it, but yes i did. Did the same thing last year, and put almost 9000 miles on the bike. This year, less than 10. Anyone want to guess what the bill for the replacement of the fork seals was?????

 

So does anyone use one of those inspection sticker plates? I've seen them on the custom bikes. (flame suit on).

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I hate to say I have never had my bike inspected. The cost to fix the seal is pretty cheap if you do it yourself. I did mine 3 months ago very easy and I used HD fork oil. Took about 1 and 1/2 hours faster if you turn a socket faster than me.

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this wasn't something that i wanted to tackle without a helping hand.... otherwise i wouldn't have a bike to ride to GA next week. Maybe next time.

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Hennepinboy

So what is involved in replacing a fork seal on an 02 Oilhead RT? Yesterday on my commute home I notice that the left seal to be leaking, it had been dry Saturday when I replace the front oil seal that had been leaking. Repair one leak and the next day there is another????

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So what is involved in replacing a fork seal on an 02 Oilhead RT? Yesterday on my commute home I notice that the left seal to be leaking, it had been dry Saturday when I replace the front oil seal that had been leaking. Repair one leak and the next day there is another????

Are you saying that you replaced a leaky seal, and the next day it was leaking again? Did you check the fork tube for rough spots? Even a tiny rough spot can destroy a new seal in a short time.

 

When I change a seal, I clean/polish the fork tube with chrome polish in an up and down motion, then use 600 grit wet/or/dry paper with some oil to create a light diagonal crosshatch pattern along the area where the seal slides. An electric drill and a helper work very well; just slide the sandpaper up and down the tube while it is spinning. The reason for the crosshatching is the same as for a cylinder, to improve seating of the seal.

 

Then thoroughly clean the tube with brake parts cleaner, lube lightly, and re-assemble.

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Actually have the fork back together again. One more question: When bleeding the air during installation of the fork tube into the slider, how do you know when you have let enough air out? Do you push the fork tube all the way in until oil comes out the bleeder? Thanks, Mike

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Everything is back together and assembled on the bike. I bled the air out of the fork to its neutral position, ie: where it rests when the bike is on the center stand. I took Shovelstroke_Ed's advice and flushed out the fork slider with mineral spirits. I'm glad I did. What a lot of crud had collected at the bottom! I'm sure the forks had never been drained or had the seals replaced since it was new. I will tackle the right side on some rainy day later on.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Since we are on the topic of fork seal failures recently...

 

I am in the process of changing the right side seal of an 04 RT and can't get the top hex nut off. It looks to take a 14mm socket. I'm assuming counter-clockwise to remove. Is there any threadlock on there? Would heat help?

 

What size wrench is needed to counter-hold the "nut" below the top hex nut? Largest I have is 19mm and it's too small. Adjustable wrench is not ideal to fit in the small space.

 

Did any one else have a similar problem? I've done two on the 02 RT a few years ago but can't remember what I did then.

 

Thanks,

 

Paul

 

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Thanks... I was able to get top screw off this morning. I did let some liquid wrench soak in over night and that might have helped.

 

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