BalancePoint Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Yeah I know, this kind of thing has been beaten to death. On Purolator's website, the following disclaimer is found: What About PureONE If you're thinking you want to install a PureONE oil filter on your bike, please think again. PureONE oil filters are designed for vehicles, not bikes. Because of PureONE's high efficiency, the motorcycle oil pump may not be able to handle the pressure. The Purolator motorcycle filter line is designed to meet the specific needs of a bike; therefore we highly recommend the use of a Purolator ML filter over a PureONE oil filter. My question is: Is this valid for BMW motors? It seems to me there's a pretty good leap between wet clutch bikes that turn 8-11,000 RPMs and an oilhead motor environment. Anyone not too exasperated to comment? Apologies in advance. Link to comment
rob1100r Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Do they list one for your bike on their 'application chart'? Link to comment
BalancePoint Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Do they list one for your bike on their 'application chart'? They list a motorcycle-specific filter (not a Pure One) on the app chart for bikes. They make a Pure One that fits the oilhead- PL10241 I believe. I have one installed, and I'm coming up on an oil change. I'm curious as to whether I should use the same one (fits my wrench) or if there is a compelling reason to change. Link to comment
BalancePoint Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Do they list one for your bike on their 'application chart'? They list a motorcycle-specific filter (not a Pure One) on the app chart for bikes. They make a Pure One that fits the oilhead- PL10241 I believe. I have one installed, and I'm coming up on an oil change. I'm curious as to whether I should use the same one (fits my wrench) or if there is a compelling reason to change. By the way, your R1100R looks just like mine right down to the cases and windscreen! Link to comment
Jeepster Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 If Purolater doesn't recommend the Pure One for M/C applications, that would compell me not to use it. Link to comment
smiller Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 That's interesting info, hadn't noticed it. It would probably be impossible to say whether the Pure One filter would be a problem in BMW motorcycles without some testing... the Pure One filters have very high filtering efficiency, and does that help more than the potential drop in in pressure hurts or the other way around? Is this a real issue or just CYA boilerplate (Mobil One 'recommends' only their motorcycle-specific oil for bikes, etc. and do on... this practice is common for many manufacturers whether any real issue exists or not.) But I sure can't say for certain, other than to note that the Pure One PL10241 filter is in very common use in oilheads and I've never heard of a single case of anyone experiencing a problem. Also note that there are two versions of the Purolator 10241 filter, the Pure One premium version (PL10241) and the standard version (P10241). The standard version doesn't have as high a filtering efficiency and thus probably less restriction so that might be an alternate choice for those concerned. And there's always the special 'motorcycle' version... if you can find it... Link to comment
BalancePoint Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 If Purolater doesn't recommend the Pure One for M/C applications, that would compell me not to use it. Noted. I just feel a little reluctant about the equivocation of my 4500-5500RPM oilhead cruise to the engine dynamics of say, a Hayabusa. Link to comment
Unhofliche_Gesundheit Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 re: " By the way, your R1100R looks just like mine right down to the cases and windscreen!" hey there is a speck of dirt on the top of the right case! you should clean that up. Link to comment
BalancePoint Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 re: " By the way, your R1100R looks just like mine right down to the cases and windscreen!" hey there is a speck of dirt on the top of the right case! you should clean that up. That's actually a gouge that was caused by a pedestrian's tooth. Funny story, actually. Link to comment
4wheeldog Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 My question would be, why is increased efficiency more of a problem for a motorcycle than it is for a car? The filter that fits the oilhead is the same as for a toyota. Toyota is not known for supplying highly efficient oil filters, using very highly efficient air filters to keep the dirt down instead. Being a belt and suspenders type, I use purolator high efficiency oil filters on my Toyotas. And, by the way, on my RT as well. I would wager that the oil pumps in an oil head are plenty stout enough to push oil through the finer high efficiency filter. JMHO. YMMV. Link to comment
4wheeldog Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 On further reflection, I bet purolator's warning is intended for motorcycles with roller bearing bottom ends.....As in Harleys. I believe the oil pressure present in that type of engine is low, on the order of 15 PSI. Volume would be high, but pushing oil through a restrictive filter with 15 or so PSI could be an issue. Link to comment
philbytx Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 I checked the specs on the ML16825 and PL10241. Both have anti-drain back valves and the ML16825 has a 14PSI relief valve and the PL10241 a 12-17PSI relief valve! Slight overall sizing differences but nothing of note....plus PL10241's are easier to obtain Link to comment
Mr. Frank Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 The OEM relief valve is 9-11. The regular Purolator is a bit above that and the Pure One is still higher. The material quoted above makes it clear that the manufacturer sees the Pure One as more restrictive than the regular filter. That's how it filters better. Link to comment
NoHeat Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Both have anti-drain back valves That actually doesn't matter. Although many automotive oil filter have have an anti-drain-back valve, it serves no purpose when the filter is at the bottom of the engine with its open end pointed up. If the filter were mounted higher up and horizontal, as it is on many motorcycles and cars, the antidrainback valve prevents dirty oil in the filter from draining back into the sump when the engine is off. But that can't happen when the filter is inverted and at the bottom of the engine, as it is in an oilhead. So it doesn't matter if your oil filter has an anti-drainback valve or not. Link to comment
smiller Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 How many cases has anyone heard of where any oil filter that is in good condition and anywhere close to proper for the application has ever caused any engine damage? Low oil pressure (due to restriction) would show first in bearing wear. Many owners on this and other forums have oil analyses done... how many have ever showed bearing wear attributable to an oil filter? The Pure One filters in particular are in very common use in BMW and just about every other motorycle brand... but I can't find a single instance of damage attributable to a Purolator filter, or any other oil filter for that matter, if replaced at proper intervals and undamaged. Worry about it if you like but this issue would seem to rank one step above (or below) choice of oil brand in importance. Link to comment
SKYGZR Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 This is where I'm at on "oil filters". (FWIW)..One only needs (2) Filters, ever for an engine...(well maybe more depending on "circumstances")..This is what one does: 1.) When changing existing oil/filter, take existing filter, and an appropriate sized funnel, inserted into an empty oil quart bottle. Tip/Drain the filter into the funnel/bottle, and leave the filter draining in the funnel overnight. Install the "new"/"filter (2)" in machine, fill, ride... 2.) Next day, or when ever..take filter (1) out from the funnel, fully drained by now, and with that cheap bottle of 5/30 -or- 10/30 oil you purchased, fill filter (1) about 1/2 way, slowly swirl/agitate/tip/swish/...fill the rest of the way. Then dump back into the funnel/bottle...leave... Repeat till oil flows clean as new....Presto...This Filter is ready for re-use!! This will probably cost about a buck or so to recycle/reuse your filters. Some may think this as "crazy/insane", but think about it...less waste, less cost, and besides, unless the filter is internally damaged somehow, this makes perfect sense, as they should last relatively forever. There's no "moving parts". If one changes per the above, and the filter never "cleans out" / pours out good clean, clear "flushing" oil, then perhaps it would be time to spend for another one, yet I'm on cycle two on each machine, and so far so good! Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Some may think this as "crazy/insane", but think about it...less waste, less cost, and besides, unless the filter is internally damaged somehow, this makes perfect sense, as they should last relatively forever Your living proof that buying used MUST be avoided at all costs..... (no smiley on purpose) Stan Link to comment
4wheeldog Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Your process only "Cleans" the downstream, clean side of the filter. The media will remain full of debris. From what I have discerned from manufacturer's strategies, oil remains usable longer than filters.......Concievably, you would be better off changing your filter and leaving the old dirty oil in the sump. If you don't believe me, try spending a few bucks on a NEW filter, cut open your old swish cleaned one.......Which side of the media is the dirt on? YMMV. Good Luck! Link to comment
rob1100r Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 With some effort I suppose you can use toilet paper more than once.. Link to comment
smiller Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 I can only assume that you're kidding... Link to comment
WOZERD Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Hello everyone. FWIW-- I've used the PL10241 with Castrol GTX 20-50 every 2500 miles since my 04' 1150RT's 3rd oil change. About 28K right now on her and so far-- so good. Well-- I'm off to Waynesville, NC for a soggy rest of the week. Link to comment
Selden Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 I'm not saying this is gospel, but I harvested this information from BMWST several years ago: FRAM (hard to find at WallyWorld) PH6063 FRAM (readily available and works) PH3614 AC DELCO PF-53 NAPA 1348 Mobil-1 M1-102 BMW 11.42-1 460 843 or 845 Mahle/knecht/microstar/tecafiltre OC91 Champion (of motorcycle range) C301 Purflux LS188B Link to comment
AndyS Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 This is where I'm at on "oil filters". (FWIW)..One only needs (2) Filters, ever for an engine...(well maybe more depending on "circumstances").. I've checked the date and it is not April the 1st. So I am making the assumption that you are serious. If so, can I suggest a way to further save money and achieve the same results.... ...don't bother ever changing the filter, just the oil. Link to comment
JamesW Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Why not just use the L10241 rather than the PL10241 that way you don't have to worry about restriction and it costs less and probably filters just as good or close to it? Link to comment
MontanaMark Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Selden, Add Bosch 3330 to your list. $6.99 @ Autozone. Also works for K75 & K100 bikes, too. Cheers, Mark Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I'm not saying this is gospel, but I harvested this information from BMWST several years ago: FRAM (hard to find at WallyWorld) PH6063 FRAM (readily available and works) PH3614 AC DELCO PF-53 NAPA 1348 Mobil-1 M1-102 BMW 11.42-1 460 843 or 845 Mahle/knecht/microstar/tecafiltre OC91 Champion (of motorcycle range) C301 Purflux LS188B There is an entire list of oil filters and other parts that can be downloaded that is stickied in this forum under title "archive for R-bike maintenance part data" Link to comment
Marty Hill Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hello everyone. FWIW-- I've used the PL10241 with Castrol GTX 20-50 every 2500 miles since my 04' 1150RT's 3rd oil change. About 28K right now on her and so far-- so good. Well-- I'm off to Waynesville, NC for a soggy rest of the week. Is it safe to leave the oil in for that many miles? Link to comment
biometrics Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 This is where I'm at on "oil filters". (FWIW)..One only needs (2) Filters, ever for an engine...(well maybe more depending on "circumstances") Some may think this as "crazy/insane", but think about it...less waste, less cost, and besides, unless the filter is internally damaged somehow, this makes perfect sense, as they should last relatively forever. There's no "moving parts". If one changes per the above, and the filter never "cleans out" / pours out good clean, clear "flushing" oil, then perhaps it would be time to spend for another one, yet I'm on cycle two on each machine, and so far so good![/i] (FWIW)? To me "it" isn't worth the real estate on my computer screen!~ "crazy/insane" doesn't even cover what I think about what you are doing... You are testing your own unscientifically proven theory and risking the longevity of an expensive motorcycle engine to save replacing a filter than costs about $10.00? Really? Your engine was designed by engineers who presumed that it would be operated as designed, and in accordance with their recommended guidance for service. If you bought a new machine... the FIRST time you mounted a used filter during an oil change you would probably void your warranty. If you developed an engine issue that could be traced to oil, any investigation as to your methodology would leave BMW completely blameless, and without financial responsibility to you and your bike. Please make sure that you enlighten any prospective buyers of your motorcycles of your method of oil change service before they make a decision to give you any money... Link to comment
AndyS Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hello everyone. FWIW-- I've used the PL10241 with Castrol GTX 20-50 every 2500 miles since my 04' 1150RT's 3rd oil change. About 28K right now on her and so far-- so good. Well-- I'm off to Waynesville, NC for a soggy rest of the week. Is it safe to leave the oil in for that many miles? Hi Marty, what do you mean? He is replacing the oil every 2500 miles. Can't get much more pampered than that. Link to comment
JamesW Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Just another reason to, in general, avoid used motorcycles especially BMW's because for some reason BMW owners seem to be a bit more eccentric than owners of other brands and also seem to be really into do-it-yourself maintenance and modifications. Of course I exclude myself from this group. Link to comment
tallman Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Hello everyone. FWIW-- I've used the PL10241 with Castrol GTX 20-50 every 2500 miles since my 04' 1150RT's 3rd oil change. About 28K right now on her and so far-- so good. Well-- I'm off to Waynesville, NC for a soggy rest of the week. Is it safe to leave the oil in for that many miles? Hi Marty, what do you mean? He is replacing the oil every 2500 miles. Can't get much more pampered than that. Hey Andy, think about it... we had a customer who changed his as soon as the sight glass showed darkening, usually ubder 1,000 miles. Link to comment
Marty Hill Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Andy, I wasn't clear enough in an effort to be funny. I think it's silly to change the oil that often. Total waste and bad for the environment. Link to comment
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