johnlt Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I have a new-to-me DRZ400 with a 14 tooth countershaft sprocket. It also came with two other sprockets, a 13 tooth and a 15 tooth. I tried changing them out but found that both the 13 & 15 tooth sprocket are thicker in the middle and when I slide it over the output splined shaft, it doesn't leave enough spline exposed to catch the mating splines of the retaining washer. Is this normal? I could just tighten the nut and call it good but I really would like to keep the retaining washer to bend over the nut. Any ideas would be appreciated. Link to comment
smiller Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Are you sure that you have the correct side of the sprocket facing the engine? As I remember on my DRZ CS sprockets there is a lip around the center hole and if this is placed towards the engine the sprocket will stick out too far, causing the problem you describe. The lip should face away from the engine (in which case it will be covered by a recess machined in the CS nut.) Link to comment
Art.. Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I have a stock 15T in my garage.....can look tonight if you don't get an answer. Link to comment
johnlt Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 I think I found the answer. When using a sprocket with "constant thickness", you need a spacer between the sprocket and the case. With a sprocket that is thicker in the center, you remove the spacer and put the thicker lip next to the case. Seems to work ok, I just didn't realize that there was a spacer there. Link to comment
Art.. Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I tend to ride mine with the 14t most times. What gearing are you going with? Link to comment
johnlt Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 I've got a 13, 14 & 15 tooth countershaft. I just put on the 15 to make it a little less buzzy at highway speeds. I'll stick on the 13 for difficult dirt and the 14 is a good compromise. I'll sample each to see how I like them. My rear is a 41 but I also have a 48 in addition to a chain extension. With a 13/48 it ought to be a real stump puller. Link to comment
Twisties Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I have a new-to-me DRZ400... I assume you've found Thumpertalk Forums Page. I assume the wife said you're crazy, again. What are you doing with the KLX, I thought you liked it? I'd sure like to see Sharon on it. Link to comment
Art.. Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I think you'll find 13 / 48 too low. I run 14 / 47 and 15 / 47 and I'm good up to 70 mph. I don't want to go faster than that on that bike with full knobs( D606) and rimlocks. A steering damper makes all the difference in the world on that bike on the road. I installed a GPR. I ride my DRZ 99% on the dirt. Eastern woods trail riding. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I think you'll find 13 / 48 too low. I run 14 / 47 and 15 / 47 and I'm good up to 70 mph. I don't want to go faster than that on that bike with full knobs( D606) and rimlocks. A steering damper makes all the difference in the world on that bike on the road. I installed a GPR. I ride my DRZ 99% on the dirt. Eastern woods trail riding. I run 14/47 and I agree that 13/47 would be too low unless you're doing some REALLY slow stuff. Link to comment
johnlt Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Jan, I sold the KLX. Great bike but I'm doing the Continental Divide ride this summer and riding back from the Canadian border on a 250 with camping gear just wouldn't work. If I could have kept both, I would have but my negotiations failed. Who knows, when I return, I my got back to a KLX. Link to comment
Art.. Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Riding back on the road you may want 15/41 to quiet her down. I would definitely look into a GPR damper. Link to comment
johnlt Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Yeah, I've got the 15/41 on now and it helps a lot on the highway. One other question. Although the bike really runs great, I got only 44 miles per gallon on my first tank. Is that normal? I get better than than on my GSA! Link to comment
Twisties Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 I get better than 60 mph. Which carb you got? How's it running, 3x3 mod and rejet done? Link to comment
StuGotz Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Guess I'll be the odd bird here. I change mine seasonally, but then I ride pretty much locally, and not much desert anymore..I like the Sierra's above 7000 ft. Summer I run the low stuff, and fat jetting. Make sure you kids don't fill your California model gas tank too full, the evap line is low in the filler neck, as a result you'll vac lock the tank at altitude. Ask me how I know... The low setup works best, I like to pull the hill, not let it pull me off the bike. Right now I'm back to stock set up, since I'm using the highway to/from the cabin. On the highway you should get 50 minimum, unless someone's toyed with the stock jetting. MB> Link to comment
johnlt Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 Not stock. The PO re-jetted the carb and opened up the airbox. It runs very strong but probably too rich based on the mpg. Another indicator is that I do NOT need to use the choke to start it even when it is cold. I guess I'll need to tear into it and lean it out some. Link to comment
Art.. Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Or put a bigger tank on.... I've got a 4 gallon Clark on mine. Link to comment
smiller Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Who makes that bag setup Art? Link to comment
Art.. Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Dirtbagz They come in two sizes, those are the small ones. The tail pack is OEM Suzuki, on the Suzuki rack. Link to comment
Twisties Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 It might be your lower gearing. My sprockets are stock. Link to comment
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