Jump to content

Removing both wheels at the same time


krussell

Recommended Posts

I'm having a local dealer mount and balance a set of Dunlop Roadsmarts I bought at SW Moto. I can save a bunch if I take the wheels in off the bike. I haven't removed them before, but it seems straightforward from the instructions in the manual. My question is what do you use for holding the bike while it has no wheels. I was thinking of removing the side cases first, supporting the front forks with blocks of some kind, and then pulling the rear wheel followed by the front wheel. Will that work, or do I need some sort of stand?

Link to comment

My $.02:

 

With the money your saving by removing your own wheels, go out and buy a motorcycle/atv jack (Craftsman?). I've put together some pretty elaborate balancing schemes that did nothing but make me nervous.

Link to comment

Kevin, seeing as the 1200RT is front heavy while on the center stand I place the bike on the center stand,, next I use a ratchet strap (or a rope) & tie the center stand to the frame at the front of the engine so it CAN’T collapse while working on the bike,, next I move the exhaust then remove the rear wheel,, next I loosen remove the front brake calipers & tie strap them up,, next I remove the front fender upper front section,, next with the front wheel still on firm ground I loosen the axle attachments,, next I place a padded jack under the front of the engine & lift the front of the bike enough to remove the front wheel.. (it will balance there quite nicely)

 

Twisty

 

Link to comment

+1 what twisty said. I use a jack up front under the engine to the front wheel up, then once removed slide a milk crate or some means of support under the front forks for added stability while away at the dealer. (You never know when an earthquake will occur here in CA :grin:)

Link to comment
Kevin, if you don't have one yet you'll need something to fit into the hex of the hollow front axle.

 

Like one of these: http://www.marcparnes.com/BMW_Axle_Tool.htm

 

Yeah, those are nice. Or, you can do like I do, and use a standard spark plug socket, insert it in the axle "backwards" and then grasp it with some channel lock pliers. Have had no mishaps with this method.

 

Here's something I didn't know until recently: when you get the front wheel on, and the axle is snugged down, take the bike off the center stand and push vigorously on the on the handlebars several times to compress the shock, seating the wheel completely, then tighten the peench bolt. This allegedly is to keep the brakes from squealing.

Link to comment

Mark, a long 7/8” nut from a truck spring U bolt (from auto parts store) fits that axle nicely if a person doesn’t have a spark plug socket handy that fits.. I must have 15 assorted spark plug sockets & none would fit that axle hex..

 

You are correct on leaving the front axle attachment somewhat loose then stroking the front suspension.. I usually fully torque the axle into the L/H fork tube as that doesn’t change in the stroking process,, then leave the R/H pinch bolt somewhat loose.. Then ride the bike up & down my long driveway while applying the front brake.. That centers it all up nicely,, then torque the R/H pinch bolt to spec..

 

Twisty

 

Link to comment

I do the same as these other guys, except I make it even easier:

 

1. I don't strap the stand to the front of the bike. The bike isn't going to fall unless you jerk the hell out of it. Don't jerk the hell out of it.

 

2. I don't remove the exhaust pipe. Do the back tire first and just loosen the exhaust holding nut to create a little room to get the rear tire off. Sometimes I let the air out.

 

3. Do the front tire next by lifting the front end with a car jack under the engine. It is a very light lift to get the front tire airborne.

 

4. I don't remove any of the front fenders.

 

5. Removing the front calipers takes 30 seconds each side, tops. Remove the two caliper bolts and wiggle the calipers to get the pads to recess the piston so the caliper can slip past the rotor.

 

5. Remove front axle.

 

Sayanara to high dealer prices to R&R the wheels.

Link to comment

hitechcpa, on the 1200RT you gotta jack that front end way up to remove the front wheel if you don’t remove the front fender’s front duck bill (2 screws) .. Doesn’t that make you nervous with it just perched on the center stand.. Can’t tilt the wheel very much or risk damaging the speed sensor.. Seems much safer to just remove the 2 fender screws & jack the front up very very slightly,, then roll the wheel straight out the front..

 

Same with re-installing the front wheel,, without the duck bill in place you can just roll the wheel into place & slide the axle in,, you don’t have to lift the wheel up under the fender or chance bumping the speed sensor..

 

I guess I’m asking as it seems more difficult & labor intense to do it with the fender duck bill in place..

 

Twisty

 

Link to comment

Just prior to DVD, I pulled both wheels for tire replacement. I used a small bottle jack under the engine, then stacked a couple of 4x4 blocks under the exhaust crossover pipe in case of jack leak down. I removed the beak plus the two opposite screws on the front (black) fender which allows it to flex upwards and the tire to roll free without jacking up very high.

 

Jeff

Link to comment

I don't have to jack it very high. I have to change my tires soon, I'll repost next week with my experience. I could be wrong about not taking off the fender, but I don't think so. I have 48,000 on the R12RT and have changed all the tires myself. But, I am getting older and could be forgetting a step, so let's wait till next week.

Link to comment

331d_2.JPG

 

With the bike on the center stand I put one of these under the motor, and raise it just enough to get the front wheel off the ground. Then the bike stable enough to pull both wheels off.

 

 

Link to comment

Re the front axle removal. I use one of those "fit all" sockets that has a bunch of spring loaded fingers that conform to said bolt head. The hex part of the socket fits the front axle female bolt perfectly. I then put a 1/2" ratchet wrench into the finger side of the socket where the fingers recede to accept the wrench. Shazzam it's done!

Link to comment
Scott, what is the make of that jack? It looks perfect for the motor.

Bill

 

I don't know the make. I swiped that photo off ebay, mine is actually slightly narrower and does not have the rubber mat on top. I bought mine off ebay a year ago. I think I paid around $80-100, not sure. Comes in really handy when cleaning the front wheel too.

 

 

Link to comment

I got a little tool for the front axle hex female at Cycle Gear, I think it was about 10 bucks and I keep it in my tool kit on the bike. I also remove the body colored piece of the front fender when I remove the front wheel.

Link to comment
331d_2.JPG

 

With the bike on the center stand I put one of these under the motor, and raise it just enough to get the front wheel off the ground. Then the bike stable enough to pull both wheels off.

 

I got the same one,,E Bay,,$99,,,Use the hell out of it,,Great tool to have,,,
Link to comment

For the axle, like Mark says, I use a standard craftsman 3/8" drive spark plug socket with hex in the axle. Then use a 3/8" extension into the socket to a ratchet. Nice and clean! Thought about ordering one of the tools until I found out how perfect this is. Now it is in my tool kit.

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...
I do the same as these other guys, except I make it even easier:

 

1. I don't strap the stand to the front of the bike. The bike isn't going to fall unless you jerk the hell out of it. Don't jerk the hell out of it.

 

2. I don't remove the exhaust pipe. Do the back tire first and just loosen the exhaust holding nut to create a little room to get the rear tire off. Sometimes I let the air out.

 

3. Do the front tire next by lifting the front end with a car jack under the engine. It is a very light lift to get the front tire airborne.

 

4. I don't remove any of the front fenders.

 

5. Removing the front calipers takes 30 seconds each side, tops. Remove the two caliper bolts and wiggle the calipers to get the pads to recess the piston so the caliper can slip past the rotor.

 

5. Remove front axle.

 

Sayanara to high dealer prices to R&R the wheels.

 

 

I don't have to jack it very high. I have to change my tires soon, I'll repost next week with my experience. I could be wrong about not taking off the fender, but I don't think so. I have 48,000 on the R12RT and have changed all the tires myself. But, I am getting older and could be forgetting a step, so let's wait till next week.

 

 

OK, so I finally changed my tires. I do not take off the front fender, I just put a jack under the engine and lift the front end. Doesn't have to go far in order to get the tire out. But, I did have to take off the muffler, didn't remember that part. All other steps above are the same. Very simple. At 6:30 PM last night got up off the couch to remove tires. 16 minutes later I was back on the couch with the tires/wheels in back of pickup.

Link to comment
16 minutes later I was back on the couch with the tires/wheels in back of pickup.

 

Now, THAT, I cannot do. It takes me longer than 16 minutes to find out where my son left my tools. :dopeslap:

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...