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Confessions and questions of a new 'rencher!


RAH01

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I have NO experience with things mechanical, but have acquired the desire to learn.

 

Last year I attended, as an observer, an unofficial tech daze near Louisville and came away believing that I could learn to do my own maintenance. A move to Colorado and other things intervened, but I kept reading this board and gathering tools. This is the week! My 2000 R1100RT is due for its 18,000 mile servicine. Monday evening, I changed the oil - and felt very satified. Last evening I started to do my first valve adjustment, following Valve Adjustment for Dummies. I finished the task this evening, and have some questions.

 

1. VAD suggests removing the cover from the front of the engine block and finding TDC by turning a nut at the bottom. I got the screws holding the cover out, but COULD NOT get the cover out from among the various pipes, etc. I put it back and resorted to turning the rear wheel. What a task! How do you get that cover out?

 

2. After completion of the valve adjustment, I started the RT. Started right up. I really believe that at low idle it runs a little smoother. However, at idle, there is the faintest "rattle." The Tupperware is still off and I am being hyper attentive. The rattle (remember, it is very faint) seemed to be coming from the throttle bodies, or very near there. Oil pressure good, plenty of oil. It seemed to me it could be normal engine sounds that I just don't hear when the bike is put back together, but I just don't know. Thoughts? Things I should be concerned about?

 

Tomorrow I try synching the throttle bodies. The goal is to have all completed to ride the Colorado 100,000' ride on Saturday.

 

Thanks for your comments, and for all the things I have learned about my bike and motorcycling in general from reading this board.

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Re: #1

 

On mine, you need to remove the "sharkfin" to drop the cover.

 

 

Re: #2

 

Do the TB sync before you come to any conclusions about the "rattle."

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VAD suggests removing the cover from the front of the engine block and finding TDC by turning a nut at the bottom.

 

In the past, I have simply engaged a higher gear and spun the rear wheel by hand while observing a drinking straw inserted where the plug once was. That was confirmed by peering through the cover hole in the right side of the engine housing.

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welcome

might be the cam tensioner you heard. i second using the rear wheel to get TDC.

i hold TD's (unofficially)at my place 2x a year. its a small garage but always room for 1 more.

next one is mid sept. maybe before fall torrey

ok more like sept 18th.(maybe tentatively) your the first to hear the date. (maybe).....

usually a good turnout.

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Clive Liddell

Bob,

I'm sure that faint rattle you hear from the throttle bodies is from the throttle itself. This is something reported by many and seems to occur when one of the throttles is held just fractionally off it's stop by the cable. To prove it place your finger on the cable pulley and the sound should disappear.

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I don't belong to the turn the motor over with the rear wheel club. Sure it is the easier way, but if you use the front, you can inspect the alternator belt for wear. It only takes a couple more minutes. Also, it is easier to turn the motor over by yourself using the front pulley, as you can sit off to the side of the bike and watch the timing gear while still being able to turn the motor over.

Now, standing at the front of the motorcycle, remove the drivers side shark fin. The cover will drop down, and out between the exhaust and the motor.

BTW, I did my valves this weekend and found my alt belt in need of replacement. With only 50k on it dopeslap.gif

 

Good luck with you new found wrenching skills,

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Joe Frickin' Friday
1. VAD suggests removing the cover from the front of the engine block and finding TDC by turning a nut at the bottom. I got the screws holding the cover out, but COULD NOT get the cover out from among the various pipes, etc. I put it back and resorted to turning the rear wheel. What a task! How do you get that cover out?

 

As has been noted, you need to remove one of the "shark fins." Two bolts release the steel stanchion (holding the shark fin) from the crankcase. I prefer the rear-wheel/fifth gear method myself. Rather than removing a spark plug, I watch the valve movements and feel for compression events (exhaust open, exhaust close/intake open, intake close, compression, TDC when you suddenly feel no resistance). TDC can be confirmed by checking the side of the camshaft sprocket: the little arrow should be within plus/minus 45 degrees of horizontal. Anywhere in that range is fine, as the lifter will be on the cam's base circle.

 

2. After completion of the valve adjustment, I started the RT. Started right up. I really believe that at low idle it runs a little smoother. However, at idle, there is the faintest "rattle." The Tupperware is still off and I am being hyper attentive. The rattle (remember, it is very faint) seemed to be coming from the throttle bodies, or very near there.

 

It definitely does make more audible noise with the Tupperware off. probably the throttle body, and that's normal; means you've got all the slack out of your throttle cables, and one (or both) are just barely tugging the throttle pulleys off of their stops. If noise stops when you open the throttle just a hair, then this is probably it.

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Thanks for the responses last week. The evening following my first valve adjustment I synchronized the throttle bodies. The noise went away, just as predicted by the responders. I believe that I was not quite as precise as I should be with the synching, but I learned a lot and the bike is running well. In fact, I rode the 100,000 Foot Pass Ride on Saturday with the BMW Motorcycle Club of Colorado and the bike performed very well. It seemed to have a little more jump than before, a little less vibration, and gas mileage increased by 6 mpg. Thanks again for the replies.

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