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Removing the plastic on 04 RT - ???


Aquilius

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Okay, admittedly this bike is new to me so I don't feel terrible about asking a question that seems so silly....

 

I've got every single screw out of the left side fairing plastic and am trying to remove it, but no go. The plastic seems 'stuck' behind the mirror, but I don't see any screws around the mirror itself. There is one that was in the front lower lip of the speaker cover, but that's out. The rest of the plastic swings free...

 

Okay, so what am I missing on that mirror? Do I need to remove the mirrors to take the plastic off? Talk about a PITA. I'm missing my GS more and more!

 

 

Cheers!

 

Todd

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Yes remove the mirror by holding it in one hand and giving it a sharp "rap" forward with your other hand. Should be another screw underneath the mirror. :thumbsup:

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Okay, admittedly this bike is new to me so I don't feel terrible about asking a question that seems so silly....

 

I've got every single screw out of the left side fairing plastic and am trying to remove it, but no go. The plastic seems 'stuck' behind the mirror, but I don't see any screws around the mirror itself. There is one that was in the front lower lip of the speaker cover, but that's out. The rest of the plastic swings free...

 

Okay, so what am I missing on that mirror? Do I need to remove the mirrors to take the plastic off? Talk about a PITA. I'm missing my GS more and more!

 

 

Cheers!

 

Todd

 

There is a screw under the mirrir, there is also a screw in the nose of the fairing.

 

Andy

 

PS make sure the right ones go back in the right place. you don't want to strip the thread inserts in the tank! Also if the screws don't screw in freely, keep adjusting stuff till they do. It is relatively easy for the screws to cross thread in the tank inserts. They will then start to spin in their housing (or strip).

 

Andy

4116.jpg.ed5a44b9180f017d07f8960386ab7be6.jpg

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be careful popping the mirror so as not to drop it. it may be tethered or may not. tether it with fishing line or something if it's not.

 

DAMHIKT

My mirrors have a factory tether called "turn signal wires". Regardless, you should catch the mirror to avoid stressing the wires.

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Thanks everyone! The nose screw was easy, I found that right off, but the mirror was a pain! I thought for sure I should hit it from the plastic side and strike it towards the rear of the bike (as if it was hitting a mailbox while I was riding). That wasn't getting it done. My wife said she thought Jeepster was saying to hit it from the mirror side forward towards the front wheel...I said that doesn't make sense given that's opposite of what would happen if you were actually riding the bike.

 

Well, she won. :) I tapped it from the mirror side on the edge of the plastic and it popped off pretty easily. No tethers there except the wiring, so I'll add some fishing line before I button her back up.

 

On a completely unrelated note, do you all take off the silver guard that sits around the transmission plugs before draining or just let it drain all over that silver piece and hope you wipe everything off? Seems like poor design, again, but I'm coming from a GS where everything was open.

 

Thanks again!

 

Todd

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On a completely unrelated note, do you all take off the silver guard that sits around the transmission plugs before draining or just let it drain all over that silver piece and hope you wipe everything off? Seems like poor design, again, but I'm coming from a GS where everything was open.

 

Thanks again!

 

Todd

 

Just a simple milk or water jug & a pair of scissors can make a very effective & simple drain trough..

 

Put the bike on center stand with a little piece of wood under the L/H center stand foot.. That will tip the bike slightly to the right allowing the oil to drain away from the trans easier but also aiding complete trans draining.. It also helps to place the bike of the slope of your driveway or other angled floor to lean it slightly to the right..

 

When re-filling the trans be sure to make it level again or place on the side stand..

 

 

 

 

 

TransDrainPlastic.jpg

 

Twisty

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Make sure you remove the fill plug before the drain plug. There have been some horror stories where owners have stripped the fill plug after draining the trans oil. A metric hex head socket set from Craftsman is a must for working on these bikes..

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Great advice. I'm sure *I* never, ever did anything like that before ... *whistle*

 

I used to do all of the work on my old 04 1150GS, so I've got the tools and experience on the actual maintenance of the bike, but ashamedly admit to being a bit flumuxed by all of the plastics on the RT.

 

First time is always a learning experience, though, right? Like learning why the Previous Owner ran a wire to the front headlight and then cut it and taped it off under the plastic....found that after removing the left side plastic. Definitely an aftermarket wire, but it travels along with all of the standard wiring into back of the headlight.

 

Ahhh the mysteries of buying PO bikes.

 

Cheers!

Todd

 

 

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Like learning why the Previous Owner ran a wire to the front headlight and then cut it and taped it off under the plastic....found that after removing the left side plastic. Definitely an aftermarket wire, but it travels along with all of the standard wiring into back of the headlight.

 

Ahhh the mysteries of buying PO bikes.

 

Cheers!

Todd

 

 

 

Todd, that wire was possibly used to trigger a relay for some accessory lights or other accessory.. Some people like to use the headlight power as it goes out during cranking..

 

Or possibly it went to a garage door opener as some trick setups use an input from the headlight high beam to trigger the garage door opener (no need to add another switch to the bike that way)

 

Twisty

 

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I really HATED getting all the plastic off the first 2 or 3 times I did it. To the point of going back to a GS. However, I think I can now get it all off in about 15 minutes. It's still a pain though

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Well, the plastic is now all off and all of the oils are changed, but I've been too busy (ie, lazy) to adjust the valves as of yet. Need to get 'em done soon though as T-Day is coming up and then I'll not have any time for sure!

 

Thanks again everyone, your suggestions are like money in the bank!

 

Todd

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I use a variable torque electric screwdriver to remove AND to reset the tupperware screws. I have found that the very lowest torque setting gets the screws exactly tight enough with no possibility of overtightening (as long as I remember to set it to minimum).

 

I have a long enough bit to allow me to remove all the screws except the two in the nose and one in the cylinder recess. Takes about 5 minutes a side to remove, maybe twice that to re-install as I usually start each screw by hand and then run them home with the driver.

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