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A Couple of Questions


Bob McKee

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I've been riding BMWs for years now, but I'm still a newbie when it comes to my '08 R1200RT (3000 miles), so I'd like to pose two questions.

 

1. In temps of 50 degrees F and below, on first start-up (which usually takes at least three tries), the cruise control sometimes goes out. It's lit up initially, but goes out after cranking a couple of times. It always comes back by shutting the bike down and restarting. Today, however, the cruise control came back again after a restart, but it then would lose power again when I hit the rear brake--not the front brake, but the rear. After riding for a few minutes, I shut the bike down, started it again, and for the rest of the ride it was fine--cruise control working just as it should.

 

Any thoughts?

 

2. I know this has been discussed--found talk of it in the archives, but for fear of frying the bike's brains, I just have to ask before I do it.

 

I've decided to hook my Battery Tender Plus directly to the battery. I've read somewhere--maybe the owner's manual--that the battery should be unhooked from the bike before you do this. I know there is at least one person on this board who leaves the battery hooked up when he's charging with the BT. That's the way I'd like to do it if it's safe. It would make those quick winter rides we sometimes get to steal here in Wyoming a lot easier. Is there a consensus on this? Do

I dare leave the battery hooked up during a trickle charge?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Bob

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I've been riding BMWs for years now, but I'm still a newbie when it comes to my '08 R1200RT (3000 miles), so I'd like to pose two questions.

 

1. In temps of 50 degrees F and below, on first start-up (which usually takes at least three tries), the cruise control sometimes goes out. It's lit up initially, but goes out after cranking a couple of times. It always comes back by shutting the bike down and restarting. Today, however, the cruise control came back again after a restart, but it then would lose power again when I hit the rear brake--not the front brake, but the rear. After riding for a few minutes, I shut the bike down, started it again, and for the rest of the ride it was fine--cruise control working just as it should.

 

Any thoughts?

 

2. I know this has been discussed--found talk of it in the archives, but for fear of frying the bike's brains, I just have to ask before I do it.

 

I've decided to hook my Battery Tender Plus directly to the battery. I've read somewhere--maybe the owner's manual--that the battery should be unhooked from the bike before you do this. I know there is at least one person on this board who leaves the battery hooked up when he's charging with the BT. That's the way I'd like to do it if it's safe. It would make those quick winter rides we sometimes get to steal here in Wyoming a lot easier. Is there a consensus on this? Do

I dare leave the battery hooked up during a trickle charge?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Bob

 

Regarding item 1, I have no idea what the problem may be but I'd get the bike to the dealer for warranty service ASAP. None of that is normal behavior.

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Bob-

 

re: #2, it's fine- my 06 RT has had the battery tender hooked up directly since it was new, zero problems. My Multi is also a CANBUS setup and has direct-to-battery via an accessory socket- works fine.

 

Re: #1, I wonder if your battery is somewhat low? That seems to be the first place to look when you have intermittent electrical gremlins, especially with the ABS system- a low battery at start-up is read by the computer as a fault. If your RT has been sitting unridden and not hooked up to a charger, they can run down. Once you hook up your battery tender and have the battery always at full charge, don't be surprised if the cruise problem goes away :thumbsup:

 

Dave

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Thanks for the help, guys. I might not have made myself clear on #2. I understand that it's ok to put the BT plus directly to the battery. I guess the question is when I do this, should I unhook the battery from the bike.

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No problem- just connect the leads, no need to ever disconnect the battery until it's time for a new one (and it will last a LOT longer with the BT, trust me!)

 

Dave

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midatlanticcycle

bob: have owned 3 late model boxers. 02 1150RT, 03 1150 RT, 07 1200RT. battery tenders come stock with several types of leads. on all 3 bikes i've hard wired tender pigtails directly to the battery leads, then mounted the SAE style plug somewhere easily accesible on bike. charge it that way and of course, the battery cables are still connected. works perfectly and never caused any sort of problem. i will say this about tenders, whether they're deltran, yausa, or whatever. if you have a "vented" lead acid battery and leave tender connected for several weeks at a time, it WILL eventually boild off enough liquid to severely drop level in that style of battery, regardless of what the tender mfg. says.

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Another data point... or at least point of view.

 

I live in SLC and thus have a longish- non riding season. I leave my 05 RT on the smart charger all winter. I wired the accessory plug directly to the battery and leave it there. When I go on the charger it goes directly to the battery.

 

when my passenger uses her heated vest it plugs directly in, no CANBUS issues. I put an SAE plug in the line from the plug to the battery. That way if I have to use my Slime air pump there is an easy place to plug in.

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I've kept all of my bikes I've ever owned hooked up to a battery tender usign a SAE connector directly on the battery. I generally plug them in whne I park my bike after every ride. I wouldn't bother if I was commuting almost daily, but I only ride my bike for recreation.

 

Never had any issues with my batteries. I changed one on my ZX9R as a preventative measure when it was 4 years old.

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I've been riding BMWs for years now, but I'm still a newbie when it comes to my '08 R1200RT (3000 miles), so I'd like to pose two questions.

 

1. In temps of 50 degrees F and below, on first start-up (which usually takes at least three tries), the cruise control sometimes goes out. It's lit up initially, but goes out after cranking a couple of times. It always comes back by shutting the bike down and restarting. Today, however, the cruise control came back again after a restart, but it then would lose power again when I hit the rear brake--not the front brake, but the rear. After riding for a few minutes, I shut the bike down, started it again, and for the rest of the ride it was fine--cruise control working just as it should.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Bob

 

Regarding item 1, I have no idea what the problem may be but I'd get the bike to the dealer for warranty service ASAP. None of that is normal behavior.

 

Suppoort the comment on Number 1 - I have an 08 RT with 13K miles, Cruise is in operative, red light comes on with the switch activation but when i set it the set light does not come on and the bike does not engage.

 

Off to the dealer

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I know lots of folks swear by their battery maintainers, but I have never used one on my own RT, and don't intend to start. Keep in mind that I ride my bike at least once weekly, except for the coldest winter months when it might be only 2-3 times/month. My original battery is still going strong after 3.5 years, and my previous experiences have been similar over several decades.

 

I think battery "tenders", BMW or otherwise, are a waste of time unless you park the bike for over a month. The owner's manual suggests the same.

 

Jay

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+1 to Jay's comment. Riding at least once weekly is great. Wish I were able to do that. I ride once or twice a month, but usually on 400 mile rides which fully charges the battery. I've had a dead battery several times when left for a month or during the winter when I do not get out as much as I do in the summer. Thus, the BT+ works well for me.

 

1+ also to using an SAE plug wired directly to the battery. I put an extension cord on the wire that goes from the tender to my bike and it hangs down from the garage rafters where I park my bike. Easy to plug and unplug.

 

Gael

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