Clutch Troubleshooting... help plz

[Yeeha! Stephen]

Well, I went and Jynxed myself again! I was just bragging that I have almost 113k on my RT and have never done a clutch or spline lube. I think I will now... Grrrrrrr!

 

Had a throwout bearing in the clutch slave go out. Thought I would just replace the slave cylinder and be good to go. Not!

 

I think the clutch release rod has spun and welded itself to the

clutch spring.

 

Should the clutch release rod be able to come out the back of the

trans if the slave cylinder is removed? ( it won't )

 

Should the release rod rotate fairly freely while in place? ( it

won't )

 

I'm gonna need to make some guide pins to slide the trans in and

out... What size do those need to be?

 

 

Thanx in advance,

 

[bmweerman]

8mm 1.25 pitch...about 120 mm long should do the trick

 

 

 

 

[honest Bob]

Stephen; See the thread in OILHEADS titled "collective clutch replacement advice needed". Sorry I can't give you a link. Lots of good info there.

The release rod should be free to turn & to withdraw. It may have worn through the spring and is now lodged in it. The trans should still pull out OK.

[OoPEZoO]

Stephen; See the thread in OILHEADS titled "collective clutch replacement advice needed". Sorry I can't give you a link. Lots of good info there.

 

Thanks......that was the thread from my transmission rebuild.

 

Here is a LINK

[RichK]

Stephen,

 

I don't think you have anything to be concerned with.

 

There are a number of us who have replaced slave cylinders; you should do a search of the site. But in each case, those who wanted to pull the clutch release pushrod had difficulty. It's normal. In my case, I used vice grips and had to wiggle and pull and eventually it came out (I was careful to protect the end because you don't want to gouge it). But I could have left it as is and it would have been just fine; the felt washer was in good shape.

 

If you do pull the pushrod, you will notice that you have to tap it a bit to get it fully inserted when putting it back in.

 

I have had no issues whatsoever since the replacement.

 

If you want to lube your spline, then have at it. But I don't think you situation calls for radical action. Best course of action IMO would be to put it back together and see if it's working OK.

 

I should mention that some of us have had difficulty on the initial bleed after installation. Maybe due to the fact that the clutch system is fed bottom up in the factory and top down might trap air. I found that a couple of cycles of rapid and deep pumping of the clutch with the bleeder closed, followed by bleed , solved the problem.

 

 

[Ken H.]

I have a tendency to agree with RichK. A lot of them seem to seize a bit onto the diaphragm spring. I don’t think it causes any real issues. The rod is spinning at engine RPM always anyway. That’s what the bearing in the slave cyl. is for. Pull the tranny if you want, but I’d be inclined to just put in the new slave and go.

[Edgar]

 

Stephen, come join the fun, address the clutch. Last weekends activity.

 

 

[bmwmick]

Hmmmmm,

That rod should ONLY spin when you have the clutch disengaged. That little bearing in the slave cylinder is not meant for continuous duty. You lube the spring end of that rod on assembly too. It should NOT stick in the diaphragm spring.

 

Mick

[Ken H.]

Hmmmmm,

That rod should ONLY spin when you have the clutch disengaged. That little bearing in the slave cylinder is not meant for continuous duty. You lube the spring end of that rod on assembly too. It should NOT stick in the diaphragm spring.

 

Mick

But what’s going to keep it from spinning? There is no bearing (or even lubricant) at the diaphragm spring end. It’s just a contact point rod to hole in diaphragm. Nor is there any retraction mechanism/method to pull/push the rod way from the diaphragm. Indeed it seems like there is a slight tension of the rod toward the diaphragm. Friction momentum alone is going to cause to spin always it seems to me.

[j chambers]

mine looks just like yours right now too..what a mess.

joel

[Yeeha! Stephen]

OK boys, good news for me...

 

Nothing wrong with the Clutch and/or the Release Rod. Just a bad Throwout Bearing in the slave.

 

The stuck Rod, wasn't. As stated in posts above, it just took some oomph to get the Felt Ring to pop out of the hole.

 

The Release Rod was perfect and I could've put it right back in. I had already bought a new one, so in it went with a new felt ring. Save the old one for a spare.

 

I didn't have to do the Subframe Tilt. Thought I was gonna have to. I have big hands and couldn't get in there to wiggle the Slave out. So I took the Footpeg Plate off the left side and then had room to get my paws in for leverage to wiggle the thing out.

 

2 Banjo screws out... new washer/gaskets on... new Slave cylinder with gasket on... tighten 3 bolts and it's done.

 

A Speed Bleeder nipple in the Clutch Bleeder fitting helped the fluid refill TREMENDOUSLY!!!! Done bleeding the clutch in less than 10 minutes.

 

In for the night, but all I have left is to put the Side Plate back on, Rear Shock back on, Rear Wheel and Brake Caliper, rear Mudguard, and the seat and then clean up my mess and it's done.

 

Thanks a Million for the hints about the clutch release rod. Saved me some bucks not diving into a useless clutch rebuild.

 

Did I day thanks? Thanks again.

[honest Bob]

Ken; The rod is held against the clutch spring at all times by a spring at the pilot bearing end, and it is lubed with clutch spring lube, where it contacts the clutch spring, and it does rotate with the clutch spring. The clutch bearing at the other end is stationary and only comes up to speed when the clutch is disengaged ie; it contacts the rod with force enough to move the clutch spring. When the stationary pilot bearing comes in contact with the moving rod, it may momentarily slow the rod down, hence the lube between it and the clutch spring.

Hope this clears up some of the confusion guys.