RT-P Alternator cover removal

[TracyPrier]

Hi all

 

Well next weekend it is time to pull the tupperware and carry out a few maintenance tasks on my new 2000 RT-P. Things like adjusting valves, TBS etc.

 

I'm sure I have seen a comment here somewhere (couldn't find it in a search) about it being harder to remove the alt cover with the P crash bars in the way. Is this the case or am I delusional again? If so is there a trick to removing the cover? Once off I plan to cut a hole over the lower crank bolt and plug it with a rubber blanking grommet so I don't need to remove the cover just to turn the engine to TDC.

 

Thanks

Tracy

[Stan Walker]

so I don't need to remove the cover just to turn the engine to TDC

 

 

You don't need to anyway. Put the bike into 5th gear and turn the rear wheel in a forward direction until you find TDC. It's easier if you pull the plugs first but will do it even if you don't.

 

Stan

[BABABeemer]

Howdy Mate! I still recommend just cutting that plastic cover in half- between the top and bottom mounting screws. This is especially important for RTPs! That way you only remove the bottom section to rotate the crank and inspect the belt and if the the belt requires changing, then you remove the top section for the change.You don't have to remove the crash bars or the shark fins. Makes all front-end work so easy that I should be charging for this valuable information, but I have received so much valuable info from this website that I feel obligated to contribute!

[TracyPrier]

Hi BABA

 

Doesn't this mean that there is a small gap where road crud can get in?? Even if you push the halves together I would have thought that it wouldn't form a proper seal?

 

As is often the case I'm probably wrong about this though

 

Thanks

Tracy

[BABABeemer]

Howdy Tracey!

Yes there is a little gap between the two halves. I don't know if it is required but I did lay a bead of silicon between the two halves. Also I added an extension to the front fender so moisture wasn't dumped on the front section of the engine.

I think as a minimum, everyone should extend the front fender to prevent moisture from reaching the front area of the engine.!Good luck!

Robert

[KMG_365]

If the RT-P covers are like my R1150RT they should have sets of slits on both sides (for ventillation?), so there are already holes there, though granted they are on the sides and not directly over the pully and belt.

[Clive Liddell]

Tracy,

When you cut the cover (I cut mine so that the cut is mainly protected behind the telelever arm) just use a fine blade and there is virtually no gap. I don't like unnecessary messing with torqued bolts, that's why I did mine.

[99RT-P]

I'm sure I have seen a comment here somewhere (couldn't find it in a search) about it being harder to remove the alt cover with the P crash bars in the way. Is this the case or am I delusional again? If so is there a trick to removing the cover?

No, you're not delusional...the cover is a bugger to remove on the RT-P. I did it a couple of months ago, after posting the question here to find out the best way to do it. I removed the left shark fin to provide easier access. The crash bar leaves very little room to move the cover, and it has to be bent, wiggled and yanked through a narrow gap. I'm amazed that I didn't break the thing. I didn't have time to cut it last time I had it off, but next time that sucker is gonna get sliced in half. I like Clives idea of slicing behind the telelever arm.

[TracyPrier]

Gidday guys, thanks for all the input. Think I'll take the advice and cut it in half, behind the telelever and run a bead of the old silly-cone along the cut 'cause mechanically, I'm a belt-and-braces kind of guy

 

Cheers

Tracy