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What are the correct speedbleeder part #s for 1150rt?


kingpinofdisks

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kingpinofdisks

I would like to do my first brake fluid flush, and figure that is a good time to install some speedbleeders.

 

Anyone know the correct parts for my bike?

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Try <<here>> .

 

In fact you might want to re-read all the threads and the accompanying discussions at the end before you come to the Tech Daze next month. The originals were really a primitive work in progress at the time and a GREAT deal of good info has been learned by many folks and added since then! thumbsup.gif

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kingpinofdisks

Thank you. Just to be sure (I hate buying the wrong parts), that would be the following part #s from speedbleeder:

 

2 x SB7100 (7mmx1.00 Extra Long)

4 x SB7100S (7mmx1.00 Shorty)

2 x SB8125 (8mmx1.25)

1 x SB6100 (6mmx1.00)

 

For just the brakes. And the clutch would be:

 

1 x SB1010S (10mmx1.00)

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For the 2002-2004 R1150RT I would use:

 

6 x SB7100 (7mmx1.00-Long) for the control circuits. You don't need different sizes, but the longer ones just make it easier to get the hose and wrench on them and there is no clearance issue that I found.

 

2 x SB8125 (8mmx1.25) for the front two calipers.

 

1 x SB6100 (6mmx1.00) for the rear caliper.

 

1 x SB1010S (10mmx1.00) for the clutch. You'll need to bevel (file, or drag on the concrete! grin.gif ) the tip down a bit to make it easier to start the screw into the filler adapter.

 

The bleed screws can be found elsewhere, but not all sizes from all sources, so it's probably easier to order them directly from Sprrdbleeder.com. While there, I would also buy a BleedBag which makes clean-up a breeze (for the few $$ it costs, it's money well spent! thumbsup.gif ) and a bottle of their thread sealant. These screws are made for cars and not M/C's, so they do not engage into the caliper threads very far. I notice that on some screws the pre-applied sealant does not go all the way to the end of the threads. I like to add a bit more to the end of the screw and bake it on as per the directions on the bottle. A good seal prevents air from being sucked back into the system from around the threads when you release the lever.

 

All that said, if you don't plan to keep the bike for more than a few years, you probably don't need to bother with SpeedBleeders at all--or at least the control circuit ones, as they are only done every two years. But you will need a 10MX1.0 to do the clutch, however! cool.gif

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