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Autocom cable routing question


BarryBeemer

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BarryBeemer

I've had my new Autocom Active-7 installation "headquartered" in my tankbag for a few weeks and it's working great. I'm now ready for a more permanent installation under the rear seat area of my '02 1150RT, which means 5 audio cables to run up to the front of the bike.

 

I am considering using some of that flexible spiral tubing/sleeve to protect the cables leaving only that one conduit to ziptie to the frame. Has anybody used that product? Like it? Recommend against it on a motorcycle?

 

Also any "noisy" areas to stay away from? Right now I have zero noise and want to keep it that way.

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I've had my new Autocom Active-7 installation "headquartered" in my tankbag for a few weeks and it's working great. I'm now ready for a more permanent installation under the rear seat area of my '02 1150RT, which means 5 audio cables to run up to the front of the bike.

 

I am considering using some of that flexible spiral tubing/sleeve to protect the cables leaving only that one conduit to ziptie to the frame. Has anybody used that product? Like it? Recommend against it on a motorcycle?

 

Also any "noisy" areas to stay away from? Right now I have zero noise and want to keep it that way.

 

The more cable length and quantity you have, the greater your chances that you'll pick up some ignition noise. Having your Autocom in the tank bag helps eliminate that because you're not running any cables under the tank where you can easily pick up something from the engine's electronic management.

 

If I may, let me suggest that if you want to permanently mount your Autocom, that you do it at the front of the bike, as close to the accessories you're going to plug into it. This will keep those cables short. Or at the very least, consider putting it on top of the airbox lid (easy to do unless you're using the lowest position on the seat).

 

If you absolutely MUST run some cables under the fuel tank, do it on the left side.

 

Finally, make sure you connect the Autocom's power directly to the battery negative. In fact, I'd use Part 158 and connect the Autocom completely to the battery, and take advantage of 158's internal relay to cleanly trip the power on whenever you turn on the key. Also, try to run your accessory grounds straight to the battery as well.

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I had mine on our (now gone) R1150RT right on top of the air filter box, with no noise issues. If you keep the wires running forward up and high away from the primary ignition coils you will be fine.

 

The disadvantage of an up forward location is it's harder to find a location where you can get at it easily for adjustment. Unless you want to give up space in your glove box but that has the lost space disadvantage. Plus makes services a bit harder because for some things the glove box has to come off.

 

It seems like most of the noise issues on the Autocoms are related to grounding, so IMHO the closer to the battery where you can get a direct ground the better.

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