1150RT Oil Change

[tobyzusa]

Ok, at the risk of being considered a complete dork, I’m going to ask this question. I’ve had my R1150RT for a month and a half and it’s coming up on 3,000 miles – time to change the oil. I have not spent a lot of time looking at the underbelly of the beast, but with a couple of cursory looks, I have not yet located the oil filter and drain plug. Can someone who has done this before, tell me if I need to remove any of the cowling to get at them? How do I get easy access to these critical components? I can figure this out, but I know from previous bikes that there are a lot of tricks you learn from trial and error. I’d rather benefit from your experience than make all the first time errors. Thanks in advance for indulging me on this.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

No problem Toby,

 

The oil filter is recessed inside the engine case near the very front of the motor and offset a bit from center to the left.

 

Oil drain is a large hex plug, only on under there, I think 19mm. I don't think you have to remove any of the plastic to change the oil. The bike should be throughly warmed up (ride it, don't idle). A nice big drain pan helps and your gonna need an oil filter wrench. NAPA sells one for a couple of bucks. You can use a filter from them as well. Crossover is a Purolator PF-53.

 

When you refill, do yourself a favor and follow this procedure, you will avoid overfilling your motor. Start with your first quart of oil and pour off (measure) exactly 8 oz of oil and set it aside. Now, fill your filter from the oil remaining in the container and install it. Pour the remaining oil in the bottle into the motor and add the remaining 3 quarts. You will now have 3.75 quarts in your motor. That should, when you check the oil using the approved oil checking dance, result in warm oil level right at the center dot in the sight glass. Take the 8 oz of oil you poured off, put it in a clean, plastic container with a tight lid and you can carry it with you for topping off.

 

I won't heckle you just yet with my opinion on the sight glass or oil checking dance, nor will I tell you that 3000 miles is way early. You'll hear it soon enough.

[Les is more]

Ed's right, you don't need to remove any plastic. However, if you're a bit awkward mechanically, like I am, for instance, it makes things much easier if you take just the belly pan off. This is especially true if you're working on the ground and not on a lift. It's just four screws and it saves me some frustration.

 

We also use a punch to put a hole in the oil filter to let it drain before removing it. Again, since my sleight of hand is not up to snuff, it's less messy for me that way. When you go to remove the filter, just loosen it first and more oil will pour out of the hole you made.

 

I do all of this with newspaper and a screened, wide mouthed oil pan in place to catch everything. The screened top is handy when I inevitably drop the drain plug and I can dump the filter there to let it drain so that it's less messy to package up and dispose of (at a hazardous waste facility, naturally.)

[eric1234]

Hey Ed,

 

Not to incite any wrath, but I thought I read somewhere that the purolator crossover was the 10241.(Only reason I remember this is that it is what I always used to use on my Saturn)...

[tobyzusa]

Ed,

 

What a great primer. Thanks for the help with this!

[tpfeffer]

Oil drain is a large hex plug, only on under there, I think 19mm.

 

You can use a filter from them as well. Crossover is a Purolator PF-53.

 

A couple of corrections. I believe the oil drain bolt uses a 8 or 10 mm allen wrench or socket. The filter mentioned above is a AC PF-53.

[axabmw]

Would I be right in assuming that after warming the engine up prior to the oil change you nee to leave the bike on the sidestand to drain down?

Does anyone have a picture of the filter wrench so I know what to look for.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

My bad on the crossover.

 

Bad again on the hex plug. That's the 'Guzzi. Its easy to get confused in my garage.

 

When you pick up the new filter, you can get thw wrench in the same store. Use the filter as a template.

 

Tightening instructions seem to vary. Here's what I do.

 

First check the old filter to be sure the O=ring came down with it. A quick peek with a mirror and a flash light to be sure there is no debris up there and a wipe with a shop towel to get a clean surface. Stick your finger into the filled filter and wipe it over the surface of the gasket to get some lube on it. Tighten up finger tight. Using the wrench and a pretty long handled 3/8 drive ratchet, I tighten about 1/2 turn, going more by feel than degrees turned. You won't feel a dramatic increase in torque required but it will get tighter. Think about a couple of thousand bucks worth of engine repair and let your wallet be your torque wrench.

[BFish]

as usual ed's narrative should be copied and given to every new rt owner. i would add one additional step which has allowed me to feel comfy with the "new" oil level. after adding the 3.75 qts, etc. i check the window (habit) but then take the moto for a short 5 minute ride. keep in mind that the motor itself is still a bit warm. upon completion of ride i go the thru the oil check routine..sidestand 5-10 min then centerstand and check the siteglass. by then the level is usally perfect and i feel like mr. mechanic!

[BFish]

drain from centerstand position.

[Bob Palin]

I always fill the filter with oil before putting it back in, it takes a surprising amount of oil that might affect the level in the sight glass until you have run the motor of course. Ed's method of measuring the volume is best but too technical for me

 

I find it hard to imagine that Leslie is more cackhanded than I am and I have no trouble changing the oil with the plastic on, most of the time I don't even spill any! I have a QuickChanger Valve on mine which makes things easier and less messy, a bit expensive at $40 but I like it.

[Boffin]

Would I be right in assuming that after warming the engine up prior to the oil change you nee to leave the bike on the sidestand to drain down?

Does anyone have a picture of the filter wrench so I know what to look for.

 

Mark, you need Motobins part number 99200, listed at 7 quid. They also do a service kit part no 00815 with all filters, plugs, seals etc for 32 quid (tool not included)

Cya, Andy

[BFish]

I always fill the filter with oil before putting it back in, it takes a surprising amount of oil that might affect the level in the sight glass until you have run the motor of course.

 

that's exactly why i take a quick spin after changing. to circulate the oil in the filter so the freakin site glass looks ok!!!!

[tobyzusa]

Killer,

 

What is a quick changer valve?

 

Toby

[axabmw]

Thanks,

I was going to drain from the centrestand position but wondered if leaving it on the sidestand first made any difference?

[axabmw]

Cheers Andy, I'll look them up now.

[Bob Palin]

Killer,

 

What is a quick changer valve?

 

Toby

If you click on those words in my post they will take you to the CycleGadgets web page for the valve (no connection with me)