Is this normal...cranks for a few seconds before it starts

[Why_Fly]

I've only had my bike for a week ('04 R1150RT, 7K miles) and my first BMW, so I don't know if this is normal or I'm just being paranoid.

 

Anyway, when starting the bike cold (bike cold, not cold ambient temp), it cranks for a few seconds before it starts. A few times it starts, then stalls, then cranks some more, and then stays running. Just seems like it cranks longer than it should. The battery has been charged using a Battery Tender, Jr. My previous bike (Harley) started with one or two cranks. Is this a sign of a low battery or other issue? Or, is this normal and I should stop worrying and go ride the damn thing?

 

Thanks all - great site - learning a lot.

Cheers,

John

[Blue Beemer Dude]

It is normal. Use the choke lever (hold it in the highest position) and give it a little gas while you press the starter button. Once the engine catches, release the choke lever (but leave it "on") and give it enough gas to keep it from stalling. After a few seconds, it should be allright.

 

I've had two of these monsters and another oilhead, and they're all like that. No worries mate.

 

I like your sig.

 

 

Michael

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Stop worrying and ride the damn thing sounds like a good plan to me.

 

You might try a couple of tricks to ease the starting drill a bit.

 

First, when you turn on the key and pull in the clutch, wait a couple of seconds for the fuel pump to stop. It runs for about 3 to 5 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. That way, you will get a full squirt from your injectors when the prime the motor.

 

Next, even if its hot out, use the fast idle cam up on your left handle bar. Pull it up to its first notch and leave it there, now don't touch the throttle at all. Hit the starter button and the bike should catch within about 2 turns of the crank. If it still proves reluctant, go to the spring detent on the fast idle lever (you'll have to hold it there) and try again.

 

Make sure things are properly adjusted. At the first detent, with the engine warm, the engine idle should be about 2200 RPM, at the spring detent it will be over 3000. Don't check either with the bike stationary as you could scorch your tupperware. It is not unusual at your bikes milage for the cables to have stretched enough to render the fast idle cam less effective. Either adjust cable free play yourself or have your dealer do so for you.

[Ken H.]

Some good suggestions already given, but for the most part the bottom line is yes, it's normal to have to crank a boxer a bit longer than you might be use to with some other bikes. As long as it starts, ride, enjoy.

[BFish]

ed's discussion of the starting procedure should be copied and handed to any new boxer owner. follow those steps and it should start.

[squints]

Mine started the same thing around 8k miles. I started mine when it was cold left the high idle lever in the normal cold start position and adjusted the cable adjuster under the left handlebar (slide the rubber back). I put mine around 14 or 1500 RPM. I know Ed said 2200 but that seems high to me But I could be mistaken. I do know that normal "idle" should only be between 9 and 1100. Good luck!

[akasjl]

It is normal. Use the choke lever (hold it in the highest position) and give it a little gas while you press the starter button. Once the engine catches, release the choke lever (but leave it "on") and give it enough gas to keep it from stalling. After a few seconds, it should be allright.

 

I was always under the impression you were not supposed to give it gas when you press the starter button?

[canoehead]

What I've noticed with both my wife's R1100 and mine on cold starts is that the fuel pump doesn't compete well with the starter for juice. Once the pressure already built up is exhausted, my sense is that the fuel pump doesn't get enough juice from the battery to cycle while the starter is cranking and that results in too lean a mixture to start well. If it's taking longer than it aught to I take my finger off the starter button and wait for the fuel pump to go through another cycle. Both bikes will normally start easily on the second cycle of the pump. A lot of times I anticipate this will probably happen and take my finger off the starter after the engine cranks a couple of turns to let the fuel pump cycle. The engine comes to life quickly on the second fuel pump cycle. I've found that it's best to not do anything with the throttle twist grip until the engine is firing on it's own, just use the "choke" lever (fast idle) as already described.