Jump to content
IGNORED

code 1133 Hall signal 2


scottfarm2

Recommended Posts

I have been trying to figure out a problem with my bike. 96 R1100RT with 47K. When you bog the gas to it, it sputters and you can feel it leaning out on one cylinder at about 65 mph causing vibration, sort of like oscilating vibration. Everything thing is dead on, timing, sync, and valves. I read the code using the diagnostic plug and a analog volt meter and got the code 1133(hall signal 2). Is this the bottom one or top one. Should I replace both of them. I've seen where you can buy them from honeywell for cheap, but you have to wire them yourself. Is this a big job or would I be better off buying a rebuilt one or new one. Is it a pain to change. Do I just have to remove the tupperware and tank and alternator pulley. Any advise is appreciated. Just did a spline lube on it about 1K ago.

Link to comment

I'll try to help somewhat. I do not know what the code means, but if you do a search on hall sensors for the last 18 months you will find at least one thread detailing the procedure for replacing the sensor using a cheaper alternative to BMW. The sensor plate itself is not a big deal to change after removing the tupperware and front engine cover. The pulley must also be removed. Good luck, Rob

Link to comment

I did a search and all the symtoms I've read about were about the bike just cutting off. Mine just sputters till the rpm catches up and its fine. Most people would not even notice it. But I am getting a #1133 hall signal 2 code.

Link to comment
I have been trying to figure out a problem with my bike. 96 R1100RT with 47K. When you bog the gas to it, it sputters and you can feel it leaning out on one cylinder at about 65 mph causing vibration, sort of like oscilating vibration.

 

Sounds more like a gas starvation problem to me. I'd check the vent hoses first, make sure they're venting, then the gas filter. It only takes one bad tank of gas to plug things up.

Here's the link for the HE stuff.

http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php

 

George

Link to comment

I changed the fuel filter to no avail. Didn't check the vent tubes though. New plugs. David, you are right. I did not start the engine, so I guess that caused the code.

Link to comment
No_Twilight
According to the IBMWR Oilhead Maintenance Manual (pdf) you will get codes 1122 and 1133 if you don't start the engine before running the Motronic test. So make sure you're doing that (or not doing that).

 

That's right. You don't actually have to start it, just crank it over a few times. As a veteran of hall effect sensor failure, I'd say that if your bike will run, it's not the HES. Cheers, Jerry

Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday
According to the IBMWR Oilhead Maintenance Manual (pdf) you will get codes 1122 and 1133 if you don't start the engine before running the Motronic test. So make sure you're doing that (or not doing that).

 

I've only ever gotten the one fault code (1133), and I get it both before and after cranking, on a healthy bike. FWIW, I don't think the Mo is very helpful when it comes to diagnosing the HES.

 

And re: OP, the HES is kind of an either/or thing; if it craps out, your bike won't run under ANY speed/load.

 

If your problem was only load-dependent (i.e. any time you go WOT, regardless of RPM), it could be fuel system or it could be TPS. If I read the original post correctly, you go WOT, and the engine is fine until it gets to a certain RPM, at which point it starts stumbling. Is that accurate? If so, then the fact that your problem is both load and speed dependent points only to a fuel supply problem. You may have either a plugged fuel filter, or a bad pressure regulator in the fuel line. Filter replacement (if you still have the filter in the tank) is a hassle, but a lot easier than the regulator. I'd recommend you try replacing the filter first and let us know what happens. thumbsup.gif

Link to comment

I took the tank off this morning, pulled filler neck out and blew both vent tubes from the bottom and it seems clear. I was gonna replace the vent tubes, but they look brand new. Could crossing the vent tubes where pump and filter are make any difference--I don't see how, cause they both vent out the bottom of bike. I checked the coil to spark plugs connection and it looks brand new--put some dielectric grease on it. I've already put a new fuel filter in. Got it back together and it seems a little better but still does it. The bike runs fine at all speeds. From an idle, if you give it too much gas it stumbles and backfires. Sync is dead on. If you ease the gas to it it won't do it. On my 94RRS I can give it alot of gas and never do I get a stumble. Maybe it is a bit of corrosion on the hes plug-I don't know.

Link to comment
Slartidbartfast

Change the spark plugs (and caps if you can) before you waste any more time troubleshooting other things. You need higher voltage to fire off a spark when pressure in the combustion chamber is higher. If you have a weak spark, it will often only show up at large throttle openings. Also, try running the bike in the dark and look for errant sparks coming from around the coil or plug wires.

Link to comment

If it's venting fine, make sure you don't have any air leaks on either TB. One of the butterfly bushings may have worn out enough to have a slight leak. If that checks out, switch TPS with your '94. If you don't want to do that, check the TPS resistance using the directions in the attachment. It doesn't take long and may save you some time. Let us know what you find.

 

George

533877-BMWFI.txt

Link to comment

The Hall Switch is available. Honeywell 2AV54. The problem is the long lead time for ordering it. I've got 4 on order and delivery is stated to be late August. I have them coming in from Arrow Electronics. They are only 12 bucks each.

Link to comment
The Hall Switch is available. Honeywell 2AV54. The problem is the long lead time for ordering it. I've got 4 on order and delivery is stated to be late August. I have them coming in from Arrow Electronics. They are only 12 bucks each.
You can order them from Newark Electronics (www.newarkinone.com) who have plenty in stock. Ordered two yesterday and I have them in my hands today.
Link to comment

OK, sounds like the stumble only happpens when the engine really demands lots of fuel. You just changed the filter, was it OK before that? Maybe you kinked one of the fuel lines in the tank?

Link to comment

It did the same thing before I changed the fuel filter. I set the tps at .400--up from .370 like the book says. I've put autolite 3923 platinum and screw on tip of spark plug was tightened with pliers. I've tried advancing the timing a little and it did not help. It almost sounds like a timing advance problem. It idles like a sewing machine and has good power, but if you bog the gas to it--it sputters and backfires-if you ease the gas to it --it runs fine. I will trade the tps from my 94RRS tommorrow and give ya'll a report.

Link to comment
marty mayer

I would just about bet you have a spark plug wire going bad. I would replace them first. If that doesn't do it, I would be looking for a coil.

Marty

Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday
I'm with Marty. Breaking up under a load sounds like an electrical issue to me.

 

If I read the OP correctly, it sounds like it's also speed-dependent, which is not consistent with ignition trouble. Am I missing something? confused.gif

Link to comment

It seems like it has a oscilating vibration from 65 to 75 mph. Not very noticable put not as smooth as my 94RRS. Maybe because there is more fairing to vibrate. The main problem is when you abruptly give is the gas it sputters and backfires. It runs great at any other time. Will try to exchange wires between bikes to see if that is it. This thing is about to worry the @#$% out of me. Once I get something like this on the brain I can't rest till I figure it out.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...