Left Turn Signal Non-Functional

[live2ride]

I just recently needed to replace my tailight. Not wanting to wait until the next day and take a chance riding in the dark as is, I went to Meijers to match up the bulb (not an exact replacement). It is working fine so far (only a day on it), however when I put the left turn signal for the first time it flashed once and then would not go on again. The right works fine. I checked both front and rear bulbs and they are fine. The "always on" left light works, just the signal doesn't. The 4-way flasher only works on the right side now. When checking the wire at the tail for juice on the left flasher it did not respond, therefore for some reason power is no longer getting to the tail. I was careful placing the lightkit back in place as to not pinch any wires.

 

Did the tail light bulb replacement affect the left flasher (don't understand why it would)? What is causing the problem and how do I fix it?

 

Thanks,

Robert

[Stan Walker]

The "always on" left light works, just the signal doesn't

 

What always on left light? The stock bike doesn't have any such thing. I suspect you are pretty much on your own here. I would try reseating the flasher mechanism in the fuse / relay box.

 

Stan

[Ken H.]

So I can understand better, are you saying that the left front, left rear, and left in-the-dash indicator bulbs, all three bulbs are on constant when you signal left, but do not flash?

[canoehead]

I had a problem with my left signal as well, but it wasn't quite the same as you described. I found a tech service bulletin from BMW that indicated the zip lock tie wraps used to hold the wiring harness in place were done up too tight. In my case, the wire fatigued at the steering column. I repaired the wire and all was well. I went over my wiring, clipping off existing wire wraps that looked too tight and redid them with less tension. The tech bulletin was from bikes of the vintage your is, so you might want to check that. Possible that working on the fixture jiggled it enough to break open a circuit that was on it's way out anyway.

[live2ride]

Sorry for not using the proper technical terminology . "Always on" at the rear turn signal lights is my "Run-n-Lites".

 

To help try clear up my issue, my rear signal lights work as running lights, however the left turn signal does not work.

 

Regarding the green dash light, the left one now does not light up at all.

 

I apologize for the confusion.

 

Good point on tracing the wiring and checking for pinch points. Much appreciative on the tip w/ the zip ties.

 

I will report later on my findings.

 

Thanks,

Robert

[Ken H.]

So does the left rear signaling filament (you now have dual filament bulbs with the Run-n-lites conversion, yes?) not light up, or light up but not blink? Does the left front bulb not light up or light up but not blink? Do you have the Run-n-lites conversion in the front also?

[live2ride]

Ken,

 

Yes the rear turn signal bulbs are a dual filament. I switched the left w/ the right bulb and it still does not work. The left bulb lights only on the running light filament. It does not signal (go bright) and stay on, it just does not come on at all when the signal or flasher is activated. The front does not have the same conversion.

 

I hope this helps explain it better. Thanks for your patience.

 

Robert

[canoehead]

Robert, when you put the four way flashers on, do you get blinking on both front lights and just the one that's working at the back? If yes, that should rule out any relay/flasher issuses. You've ruled out the bulb, but you might have a bad contact in the bulb socket, be worth your while to either test with a volt meter and/or spend a bit of time checking/cleaning. If you're not getting voltage to the bulb socket, you've pretty much ruled everything but a broken wire out.

 

On the problem I had with my 97 R1100R, it was fairly easy to tell where the broken wire was. I looked for tie wraps that were obviously tight in places where there might be some flex on a regular basis. As soon as I clipped the tie wrap by the steering column, I could tell the signal wire was broken at that point because of the limpness in the wire and how easily it would flex at the tie wrap mark. I'm guessing you've probably got a similar problem, but it'll be a little less obvious (can't imagine where there'd be flex on the cable routing to the back).

[live2ride]

To answer the question from canoehead, when the 4-way flashers are on, all of the right side lights flash, none of the left side lights flash. When using a volt meter at the rear left bulb socket, the left running light lead shows voltage, however the turn signal lead shows no response. I sprayed cleaner onto all of the fuse contacts that are under the seat and on the left turn signal switch. I looked at the wiring briefly at the stem and did not notice anything obviously. Will probably need to take the tupperware off to see better.

 

Could it be a relay issue? If so, where is that located ?

 

Thanks a ton!

Robert

[canoehead]

Robert, I was lucky in that it was a broken wire that was easy to spot. Based on your last message, I think your problem isn't the same as mine.

 

From memory, when I triggered the four way flasher, the 3 lights with good wiring came on, only the one with the broke wire didn't. Since you don't get a response on the left side, that probably rules out a broken wire and also the left activating switch. From memory, the flasher unit is under the gas tank. I believe there's also a relay (also under tank) involved that translates the switch action to the flasher. That's from memory (always suspect). If someone knows for sure and chimes in, listen to them. I'll try to confirm some of that from home tonight, but can't promise.

[NightStalker]

Robert

Check the connections where the run-e-lights were tapped in

I think you will find corrosion at the connector.

Had the same problem.

Good luck.

[Ken H.]

I believe there's also a relay (also under tank) involved that translates the switch action to the flasher. That's from memory (always suspect). If someone knows for sure and chimes in, listen to them. I'll try to confirm some of that from home tonight, but can't promise.

The bulbs are wired directly to the flasher unit, no other relays involved.

 

If none of the bulbs are lighting on the left side this rules out a broken wire, as only the one bulb broke to would not light. The other two (front or back, and dash) would light but not blink. BUT if a wire to one of the left sides was pinched to ground then nothing on the left side would light. And unfortunately I have seen where a shorted grounded lead will damage the flasher such that even after the pinch/short to ground is fixed.

 

If you measure resistance/ohms to ground on the suspect bulb socket, what is shown?

[live2ride]

When a meter was placed on ground and on the turn signal probe in the socket nothing happened (left signal was activated at the switch too). When the same test was performed on the right rear socket the meter reacted. Someone else did the test for me since I am pretty ignorant when it comes to electricity, therefore it is difficult for me to answer that intelligently.

 

Interesting enough, the ground for the Run-n-Lite that is tapped into the tail light was loose. As mentioned by someone, this may have damaged the relay. Hard to tell since there is no known test for it except to replace it and if it works that was it.

 

Crazy part about it is the OEM Flasher Relay is approx. $88. A Kisan SignalMinder ranges from $88-$110 which replaces the OEM Relay. Hmmmmmmm.....what to do.

 

Robert

[Ken H.]

When a meter was placed on ground and on the turn signal probe in the socket nothing happened (left signal was activated at the switch too). When the same test was performed on the right rear socket the meter reacted. Someone else did the test for me since I am pretty ignorant when it comes to electricity, therefore it is difficult for me to answer that intelligently.

Understand. What (s)he was doing is measuring the voltage going (or in you left case, not going) to the bulb. See if (s)he can perform another test - measuring the resistance (ohms) to ground at the bulb socket. That will tell if the wiring is accidentally grounded somewhere.

 

You really want to get this answered first before replacing the flasher with either the factory or a Kisan one. Otherwise you just run the risk of damaging another one.

 

At the end of the day though if you do have to replace the flasher, go with the Kisan, more cool features!

[live2ride]

When I get back to work tomorrow I'll have the resistance (ohms) checked.

 

Thanks for the advice Ken!

 

I also agree that it makes sense to go w/ the Kisan. Does anyone know if it's compatable w/ the rear Run-n-Lites?

 

Thanks again for all of the help everyone. It has saved me a tremendous amount of time and money. I don't know how to repay you.

 

You're all Saints!

[Ken H.]

Does anyone know if it's compatible w/ the rear Run-n-Lites?

You could leave the Run-n-lites in place, but really the Kisan provides the same functionality of running lights, and much nicer. It software lights the signal bulbs, front and back, in two different selectable (or none) levels.

[live2ride]

I almost did not reply w/ an update due to being very embarassed about what happened. My electrical expert didn't have time to check my bike, so he explained to me how to do it myself. Sounded simple enough .... RIGHT. I put the meter on the socket and looked for a number to show up on the tester. All I heard was a sound beeping from it. The left socket had no tone. As I placed it back on the right socket to try again I slipped and you guessed it, sparks then nothing. Now the right side does not work . I checked the fuse and it's good. Did I fry the wiring or just the relay? This is the last time I touch any wires .

 

I did order a Kisan SignalMinder, but won't install it until I know for sure this issue is fixed.

 

Robert

[Ken H.]

Did I fry the wiring or just the relay?

Well if by "relay" you mean flasher unit, I think it's likely you killed it. Why they didn't fuse more circuits in this bike is beyond me. (The headlights aren't either.)

 

BUT you still need to resolve you're original left side problem first. If it is grounded anywhere. Or else you'll just blow out whatever new flasher you put in. (Kisan or factory.)

 

If you want to experiment/troubleshoot further... Remove the flasher then using a fused jumper wire (3 amp or something) connect on the flasher's socket pin 1 to pin 6. That should light the right side's lamps. Repeat on pin 1 to pin 12 for the left side's. If one side or the other does not light you need to solve that before plugging in a new flasher. If the fuse in your test jumper blows you have a short to ground somewhere in that side's wiring.

[live2ride]

I did the jumper for the left & right turn signals on the pins in the harness plug suggested above. Thanks Ken for that bit of information. Both sides lit up, so I felt comfortable plugging in my recently received Kisan SignalMinder. WOO HOOOOOOO! IT WORKS

 

Thanks again for everyone's help on this, and for Ken's keen electrical expertise for walking me thru it.

 

Robert