manometer

[BEEMRBUM]

having trouble locating the specs for the manometer, some of the members have constructed. Size, length, and position of use. just completed the 12K service on my '03 RT and everything seemed good. had the local shop do the fluid changes for brakes and tranny, and although the bike ran well, they suggested a tb sync. well, it is not as smooth as before, and the rpm's are at 1000, instead of 1100. would like to try to fine tune the tb adjustment. Thanks in advance to all that have made this site so successful.

[SANTA]

try this, after quick search on net....

 

http://www.obairlann.net/~reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html

[BEEMRBUM]

thank you for the info. i just couldn't locate it. thank goodness for collective minds.

[steve.foote]

Here is another one:

 

http://www.rightspin.com/motorcycles/LowCostMano/mano.html

 

Easy to build and very accurate.

[BEEMRBUM]

thanks. it sounds so simple, but is there a trick to removing the air hose from the throttle body. I've been known to " break it, before I fix it". I have never removed them before, and it is very ridgid. I should make the dealer redo it, but the fairings are off, and its a 100 miles round trip.

[steve.foote]

Richard, the vacuum hoses should come right off. You might need to twist them a little, but it shouldn't need much force. Make sure your removing the flexible rubber hoses on the bottom of the TB and not the hard plastic tubing on the top (that would be the fuel injector line).

 

And, obviously make sure the engine is shut off when you connect and disconnect the manometer or you'll suck the fluid right out of it.

[BEEMRBUM]

there you go, stupid questions, make you smart. now I'll try the soft hoses on the bottom. I can follow instructions, I just have to know the language. Thanks again.

[too old to care]

there you go, stupid questions, make you smart. now I'll try the soft hoses on the bottom. I can follow instructions, I just have to know the language. Thanks again.

 

Well, I did it to my new R1100S. The bike has now 500 miles, so I decided to use my home manometer to synch the fuel injection since the idle was a little too fast for my tastes.

 

I hooked up my manometer, which is constructed from clear plastic tubing filled with fork oil, to each throttle body like I have done in the past to synch my R90S, R100RT, R1100RT, etc. You get the idea; I have done this many times before.

 

The only thing different this time, it is my brand new bike, still under warranty, still shinny, etc. I did not expect the near fire, the amount of smoke, or the panic from both Sharon and myself. I also did not expect to feel good about the outcome after the black smoke started.

 

There I was, in the garage with only the effects of one or two glasses of cheap wine, so I cannot blame my mistake on alcohol. Nor can I blame it on carelessness; I can only blame it on dumb luck, the lack of light, and cheap plastic tubing.

 

My bike was warm, but not hot. I removed the rubber tubing from the bottom of each throttle body and connected the manometer. I started the bike and let it idle for a few seconds while noticing that the right side had more vacuum, as evident from the column of oil moving up a few inches.

 

I turned the brass idle screws until both sides were even. I then raised the RPM slowly to about 4,000 RPMs and noticed that the left side moved up a few inches more than the right. I loosened the lock nut on the right throttle body cable and slowly turned it until both sides were the same, then tightened the lock nut.

 

I then admired my work, both sides were even at idle and at 4,000 RPMs. Just when I was ready to shut the bike off, the right side started climbing at an alarming rate. I looked over at the bike and noticed that it appeared to be on fire, because a tremendous amount of black smoke was coming from the left cylinder.

 

Panic set in, I grabbed the screwdriver and went for the left throttle body. I stopped because the smoke was starting to get thick and my wife was loudly asking, what the he** are you doing?

 

I shut the bike off and went to the left side. There, on the exhaust pipe was what was left of six inches of my clear plastic tubing, the remaining sections totally melted in two. That six-inch section was and now black and smoking. Relief, no fire to my bike, only to my homemade manometer.

 

Tomorrow, I will buy some more cheap tubing, fix the manometer and clean the soot off the garage floor. Tonight, I will enjoy another glass of cheap wine to calm my nerves.

[steve.foote]

That's pretty funny!

[bmw_rider]

I guess it is true, motorcycles and alcohol don't mix, even in the garage.

[BEEMRBUM]

from beemrbum, " and although the bike ran well, they suggested a tb sync. well, it is not as smooth as before, and the rpm's are at 1000, instead of 1100. would like to try to fine tune the tb adjustment. Thanks in advance to all that have made this site so successful. "

 

On second thought, maybe the 50 miles to the dealer isn't so far:)

how do you put 325ml. of fluid in the final drive? Leave the drain plug out. Don't ask me how I found out.

[SANTA]

talk about nearly pi$$ my shorts laugh at your predicment, except that i know with all the hosies etc dangling it is easy enough to melt something. call it the new bike jitters "NBJ" done all theis service before on cars etc but it seems one gets nervous when its the new toy...

[BEEMRBUM]

making progress. manometer is beautiful. next question regarding the adjustment. dealer adjusted TB, and left it at 1000 rpms, one side on brass screw was 1/2 turn from close and other screw was 1 turn from closed position. bike isn't as smooth as before the adjustment, and noticeable hesitations at under 4000rpm's. With the instument I'm using, I notice that when throttle is opened, one side goes higher than the other.1- Do I adjust to make them even, as they rise, or even them under throttle. They are always level when the throttle is released. 2- How do I know if the cable should be adjusted, and will that adjustment bring my idle back up to 1100 rpms, where it was before the dealer adjusted it ( and was running so smoothly ). Thanks

[Boffin]

making progress. manometer is beautiful. next question regarding the adjustment. dealer adjusted TB, and left it at 1000 rpms, one side on brass screw was 1/2 turn from close and other screw was 1 turn from closed position. bike isn't as smooth as before the adjustment, and noticeable hesitations at under 4000rpm's. With the instument I'm using, I notice that when throttle is opened, one side goes higher than the other.1- Do I adjust to make them even, as they rise, or even them under throttle. They are always level when the throttle is released. 2- How do I know if the cable should be adjusted, and will that adjustment bring my idle back up to 1100 rpms, where it was before the dealer adjusted it ( and was running so smoothly ). Thanks

 

The brass screws set the idle adjustment - water level with throttle closed. Use the cable adjusters to get level water as the throttle is opened. Some do this at a constant RPM such as 4000. I prefer to get the dynamic (opening) adjustment right, this will also get the static part throttle right. Also keep the engine cooled - use fans if possible. Keep an eye on the temp guage and shut down/take it for a ride if it gets over hot.

 

Cya, Andy

[JonathanE]

There are so many well written descriptions of TB syncs, that I'm not going to try to paraphrase them. Check out the ibmwr desription (theres more than one actually), or go look for the TB Sync for Dummies" .pdf file. I think that one may be at the advrider site. I'm not sure. All the "Dummies" write ups were hilarious and should be read by everyone whether they know what they are doing, or not.

[BEEMRBUM]

Thanks all. I did the reading but wasn't sure of the adjustment with the manometer. The oil level is even at idle, and when I raise the throttle, the right side becomes much higher. Both screws are now out 1 1/2 turns. Are you saying that the cable adjustment will keep the oil levels equal with higher rpms.

[Boffin]

Thanks all. I did the reading but wasn't sure of the adjustment with the manometer. The oil level is even at idle, and when I raise the throttle, the right side becomes much higher. Both screws are now out 1 1/2 turns. Are you saying that the cable adjustment will keep the oil levels equal with higher rpms.

 

Yep, brass screws for idle, cable adjuster for higher RPM

 

Cya, Andy

[SnowDog]

Assuming your cables are not so tight that they hold the throttle open at idle (be sure of this), the Brass screws are for balancing the idle only. Do this first.

 

Then to adjust the cables, lightly pull the throttle open. The side that drops is the side opening first. Get this so the you don't get the 'one side droppping first'. They should stay mostly even. Most times this is good enough.

 

Then some people check at a higher throttle such as 4K rpms (be sure you are using fan to cool the headers, especially now) This should be close. If it a little off, you can do a minor tweak to the cable to get it closer. The is very sensitive and you can chase this all over the place if you are not careful to only make minor tweaks at this point. Remember at higher RPMs (high vacuum) the manometer is very sensitive and a reading within several inches is pretty good.

[BEEMRBUM]

got it. idle is good now. only 1/2 to 1 " difference when more throttle is given, and I think I can live with the 1000 rpm idle for now. Before I readjusted it I was riding 2 up and took a corner in 2nd gear, and the engine almost quit. It seems to be ok now. Thanks all for your imput. Richie

[SnowDog]

Try both screws at 2 turns.