Just wondering - Anyone here a Ham and operating from their bike?

[Bud]

BTW Ham in this case means amature radio operator. The rest of you "hams" will have an answer for me, I'm sure.

[SageRider]

TM-D700A Mobile!

[Tool Man]

Bud,

Welcome, and yes I would be two wheel mobile also. I only use it in a group though. I focus on the ride though when riding alone...which I do alot of....not chatting away. My HT is fixed in the tail section. The cell goes along too...but hangs out in the tank bag. Since my rides are mostly in the mountains where cell coverage doesn't exist, the Ham radio will allways be there because it works everywhere if I need it.

 

It's nice to have bike to bike in a group, and for sure is more efficient than any other form of comm.

 

73'

WB6K

[Timmer]

Bud,

I carry an HT with me when I ride, and take along an FT-817 qrp rig on the rare occasions when I go motorcycle camping.

 

Like Mike, I concentrate on riding and don't actively use it mobile unless I'm working some event like the Wine Country Classic yesterday.

73 W6MU

[Pappy]

I also carry a 2-meter HT on longer trips in case I need it. I use FRS for bike to bike with my regular riders of which none are hams.

 

de W3HI

[Mr_Ed]

I have a buddy using his Yuasu through his autocom active7smart.... he's pretty happy with it.... He's tested it out with a few other hams in the area and they reported decent sound..

[EffBee]

I have a buddy using his Yuasu through his autocom active7smart.... he's pretty happy with it.... He's tested it out with a few other hams in the area and they reported decent sound..

 

The Yaesu radios can be interfaced with your Autocom using the IL-09 (part #111). This is the same interface cable used for two-pin non-Kenwood FRS/GMRS radios.

[brinkjm]

There are at least 4 of us here in SoCal that use Yaesu FT-51 2M/440 HTs through Autocom Pro-M1 systems with the PTT option and Arizona Al's earplug speakers. If I could sum the package up in one word? AWESOME!

 

I thought that bike to bike communication would be so-so, you know, just "adequate?" Imagine my surprise, the crystal clear TX/RX capabilities of this system at all speeds and at up to 5 miles. Absolutely amazing. We are using external dual band antennas but we've had good luck using the standard flexible antennas on the HTs in a pinch.

 

A big for Autocom. They've really done their homework on the technical side and the quality is second to none. Also, a shameless plug for Fernando Belair at Brown Motor Works in Pomona, California for setting us up with all of the required bits and pieces to configure the systems for exactly what we wanted, not to mention wonderful after-sales support both with installation instructions and fine tuning of the VOX/volume settings.

[GoGriz]

Brinkjim-

 

Will the M1 power the Yaesu FT-51? Sounds like you have a great system worked out there. I would like to upgrade my Eurocom to a 7pin sometime but am only interested in the high-test unit if it can power the HT's. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

-Robert B

[WestTX RT]

I am taking a one day class w/ the test at the end of the day this Saturday for the entry level license. My father in law has been a Ham for many years, and has always wanted us to get licensed. After reading a lot of the previous threads on the board, I'm excited about getting all of this figured out after I pass the exam.

[GoGriz]

I am taking a one day class w/ the test at the end of the day this Saturday for the entry level license. My father in law has been a Ham for many years, and has always wanted us to get licensed. After reading a lot of the previous threads on the board, I'm excited about getting all of this figured out after I pass the exam.

 

You will love the world of amateur radio...it is as if a whole new dimension is opened up for you. Actually, much like motorcycling. You meet the coolest people on the air and get to know them much like you get to know the people on here. Then, when you do meet, it is like old times and the stories just a'flow!

 

Good luck on your test and welcome to the world of amateur radio!

73,

KE6CBB

[brinkjm]

Brinkjim-

 

Will the M1 power the Yaesu FT-51? Sounds like you have a great system worked out there. I would like to upgrade my Eurocom to a 7pin sometime but am only interested in the high-test unit if it can power the HT's. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

-Robert B

 

Robert,

 

No,the Pro-M1 (nor any Autocom device) will actually power an external accessory. It is merely an interface between the HT and the headsets. We use (and excuse me if the nomenclature is not correct) a "battery eliminator" available from Yaesu. This works both as a charger and 12v power supply for the radio that has a standard 12v male plug on one end and on the other end, an adapter that fits over the HTs battery contacts. I can't remember where we tapped into power (maybe the battery itself) but we simply attached the battery emiliminator to the HT and plugged it into a Radio Shack 12v cigarette lead, the cut the ends off of the RS adapter and hard wired that into the bike power.

 

I'll see if we have any snaps of our setup. If not, we'll take some this weekend and I'll have Mikey (Tool Man) post them up.

[skinny_tom (aka boney)]

The Yaesu radios can be interfaced with your Autocom using the IL-09 (part #111). This is the same interface cable used for two-pin non-Kenwood FRS/GMRS radios.

 

The Yeasu VX-5 HT uses a different connector. It is a single pin 3.5mm connector with 4 contacts. It looks just like a mini stereo connector but isn't. And I am going to recommend against using any of the Yeasu radios with this connector with your Autocom. Here's why:

 

Some people may inadvertently disconnect the radio from the autocom (at the radio to autocom connection) without first turning off the radio. As the 4 lead connector slides out of the jack, it may short some of the internal radio connections- or apply signals to some connections that are not designed for it, and may, under normal operating conditions of the radio and autocom possibly cause a voltage spike or other anomoly for which the radio is not prepared, and damage the transmitter. This of course, making your HT an expensive scanner until repared. DAMHIK. This of course being all theory- except for the transmitter not working immediately after performing the above maneuver.

[BMC]

 

The Yeasu VX-5 HT uses a different connector. It is a single pin 3.5mm connector with 4 contacts. It looks just like a mini stereo connector but isn't. And I am going to recommend against using any of the Yeasu radios with this connector with your Autocom. Here's why:

 

Some people may inadvertently disconnect the radio from the autocom (at the radio to autocom connection) without first turning off the radio. As the 4 lead connector slides out of the jack, it may short some of the internal radio connections- or apply signals to some connections that are not designed for it, and may, under normal operating conditions of the radio and autocom possibly cause a voltage spike or other anomoly for which the radio is not prepared, and damage the transmitter. This of course, making your HT an expensive scanner until repared. DAMHIK. This of course being all theory- except for the transmitter not working immediately after performing the above maneuver.

 

When users are referring to using the standard Part 111 lead with the VX-7 they are still using the yaesu adapter that is a threaded 4 conductor pin. We do also make Specific leads for the VX-5 and VX-7 and they are different. Any questions send me a message or call our office at 888-851-4327, sales@topgearmail.com we are the US autocom importer.

[WestTX RT]

I just finished the class and the test and passed.

We studied the test questions/right answers all day in 45 minute sessions, and took the test at the end of the day. I don't know much more than I did, but I have a license on the way! Now the learning begins. Thanks guys for the info and pointers.

[SageRider]

I just finished the class and the test and passed.

Congrats!!!!

[Scurrie]

OK, since we are on this thread, I'm am interested in hearing from folks who have interfaced ham gear to an Autocom. I have an Active 7 and have connected 2 different radios and have had the same problem--low transmit audio. The first radio is a Kenwood TH-F6A, using the Autocom cable for Kenwood radios (I forget the Autocom part #). The F6A has very low TX audio, in fact, I would call it unusable. I then built my own cable to connect a ICOM W2A. This radio also has low TX audio, although not as bad as the Kenwood. It works OK for bike to bike since we can just adjust the receive audio to compensate, but if I use a repeater and talk with other stations, they always tell me my audio is about half of what it should be. Another ham friend just picked up a Active 7, Yaesu VX-7R, and the Autocom Yaesu cable. He also has low TX audio! So, has anyone else run into this? Just for the record, I have built repeater systems, done Echolink, PSK-31, packet, all with homebrew interfaces. I know how to do this stuff! I'm convinced the level coming from the Autocom is too low.

[brinkjm]

Scurrie,

 

I'm by no means an expert, but I have a few questions:

 

Are you using any type of external antenna, and if so, is it grounded properly?

 

Secondly, mic placement on the Autocom is CRITICAL. It needs to be placed DIRECTLY in front of your lips and you must speak as if you were talking to a person 3 feet away. This is what Fernando told me and we've had excellent results with his suggestions. If the mic isn't anywhere close to your mouth, you will have low Tx audio - same for your voice output. You can't really whisper.

[Tom B]

would FIRST suspect microphone positioning/technique, as it is the most likely cause for low level speech.

 

I suspect that with proper positioning and use the microphone output level will be more than loud enough.

 

 

TEST.

 

Can you possibly get others with Autocom to speak to you and you to them and compare Autocom to Autocom, and see if they are both the same?

 

When you speak is it loud through your own speakers to you own ears? Where is your volume and VOX set on the Active-7?

 

TEST

Set the VOX and VOL knobs to their centre positions (flats on shafts both parallel to label). That’s a setting for about 100 to 120mph so you will have to find and used the correct microphone position to hold the VOX open.

 

If you cannot keep the microphones open IE 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 comes out as 2,6,10 etc then slightly raise your voice and move the microphone around while talking to find the load spot. (the position which sounds the loudest is the easiest to operate the VOX)

 

When you have found and used the loud spot and correctly projected your voice through it you will be able to speak constantly holding the VOX open. A little practice help get you through the learning curve and also turning the volume down slightly also helps as if you don’t hear yourself too loud you will speak louder, but if it is too loud you will naturally speak quieter.

 

Hope this helps but if you need more info, please contact our radio engineer Simon Hall email simon.hall@autocom.co.uk

 

Regards

 

Autocom-UK-Tom

[Scurrie]

Tom--

I've had this discussion with Autocom US support before. I position the mic literally on my lips and have worked it to find the hot spot. With the VOX set to the 70MPH spot, I have no trouble holding it open. (I prefer this spot for my wife's benefit as she is a bit soft spoken) With the Kenwood radio connected, I have shouted into the mic, loud enough to be too strong for the talkback in my ears, and still the TX audio on that radio is way too low. On the ICOM, if I am talking at about shout level, I am close to the level of other stations. With the all the possible radios one might connect to an Autocom, and the differences in design of their microphone circuits, I find it strange that you did not design the TX audio with an adjustment pot to compensate.

 

I have all the test gear needed to measure levels, if you can PM me with the specs I can measure my unit to see if it is performing to spec.

[Scurrie]

Scurrie,

 

I'm by no means an expert, but I have a few questions:

 

Are you using any type of external antenna, and if so, is it grounded properly?

 

Jimmie-

Yes, and this brings up another question. I am using one of Mike's great antenna mounts on the luggage rack with a Comet dual band antenna. When I properly ground the mount I get significant alternator whine in the Autocom. It is always there even with the radio off. Disconnecting the antenna ground gets rid of the whine, but of course, is not good for the SWR. This leads me to believe that the radio interface on the Autocom is not ground isolated and I am getting some sort of ground loop. The Autocom is connected direct to the battery, and the whine is there both with the radio powered off the RT and also when using the internal battery on the radio. Anyone else get this? I know my friend with the Yaesu does.

[Tom B]

Scurrie

 

Sorry I had to go through the boring microphone loud spot technique first, but if you know how to use this correctly then you will understand just how much difference is can make and why we have to go for that first.

 

OK, Autocoms first and utmost priority is to offer THE VERY BEST noise cancelling systems that are designed, tuned and perfected for motorbike use. Nothing else even comes close.

 

One of the basic rules in this is NOT to have ANYTHING louder than is needed to communicate.

 

People often turn volumes much louder than are required and that usually does not matter too much when used in a reasonable environment, IE a home base station or quiet car etc, (all nice and quite) any undesirable noise will be minimal and so excessive volumes wont highlight them too much. HOWEVER Autocom has to work in extremes, IE 150mph can be more than 130dB which is extreme. You need a massive sheet of paper to paint the picture of just how BIG the noise is compared to say typical noise in a car (maybe 85 to 95dB) , or in someone’s home (typically 75-85dB). Out on your bike at 70mph (typically about 111dB) and at 100mph perhaps 120dB and each 3dB extra you are DOUBLING the noise.

 

OUR preset levels are RIGHT for our specific design requirements. IE The Audio output for the phone works very well with most phones. The Audio output for transceivers works very well with most transceivers, and indeed should work quite well with other ham users, sure they may need to turn the volume up a bit when talking with you and it will be fine, and yes they may need to turn it back down again when talking to a non Autocom user, but that not normally a BIG problem for most HAM users, UNLESS they are on a bike and need it hands free (like your is through your Autocom if talking to other with Autocom, or reset for others without Autocom)

 

If two or more people use our systems together, then there are no problems and everyone will be very happy with the STUNNING quality and performance (at any speed).

 

The problem arises when a non Autocom person joins the party, because they are not Autocom’ed they will not quite match our levels, as you are finding (We sometimes find this with some people with CBs, who are all fine talking together through Autocom to Autocom and only get the same sort of problem as you when others without Autocom join the party)

 

I SUSPECT THAT’S THE CASE? Please confirm

 

As for adding an adjuster? If I do this for one the principle is set and so I have to do it for all, and historically we find MOST users do not fully understand noise cancelling principles and I’m not about to try teaching the world, also you must remember that on a bike, hands free is best, hence the name AUTOcom. No knobs if possible.

 

We can put an adjuster for each input and each output, but this often leads to extra costs, easier to break and far more confusion, (why cant you just make something more affordable and less complicated) sure and while I appreciate millions of people can work this out and get it right, I also know that for everyone that can, there will be at least one or more that cannot, are you with me so far.

 

OK I think I made my point, but this isn’t helping you with your problem, so here goes,

 

please email simon.hall@autocom.co.uk and he will guide you how to boost your TX output, I suspect that being a HAM user you problem know which end of a soldering iron to use, but if not we will arrange to do it for you. NO STRINGS ATTACHED!

Get it, no strings/ham ok well its Saturday so I will go back breaking my 4x4 in the deepest mud I can find.

 

Autocom-UK Tom

[Scurrie]

Tom--

Thanks for the looong and detailed response. I realize that I am probably not the typical Autocom user. I actually do understand the difference between 111dB SPL and 130dB SPL, I am a part time sound engineer. (and by the way, when we are talking SPL, doubling the sound pressure is 6dB not 3dB, 20log(p1/p0), of course this is perceived level, and influenced by frequency, but then I degress...)

 

Your points are well taken, and I have contacted Simon with some detailed relative measurements that show the significant difference between the radio driven by the Autocom versus the factory microphone.

 

Yes, you are correct. If it was just a bunch of us Autocom users riding together it would not be a problem. We would just adjust our receive volume to compensate. But, us hams like to talk to other people as we ride, and get into the middle of a "round table" of several folks on a local repeater. There the differences in level become obvious and a problem.

 

There is also a part of me that thinks if you are going to drive a circuit, drive it at the level it was designed for to achieve maximum signal to noise ratio. I can understand not installing an adjustment on the Autocom for the reasons you state, and instead placing the attenuation in the accessory cable, but in my case there is not enough output from the Autocom to correctly drive the radio.

 

Yes, I have inhaled more than my share of solder smoke, and I'm sure Simon and I will arrive at a solution and my Autocom will no longer be "stock". And by the way, I do consider the Autocom an excellant product. Maybe I'm just too picky.

 

If anyone else is interested, I can post the results of my measurements before and after whatever changes I make.

[WestTX RT]

Ok boys, I took the test, passed, and my license number was up on the FCC website by Wednesday, and I had my ticket in the mail by Friday. Seemed unbelievably fast. KE5EXE

 

Now I'm confused by the choices. Based on what you guys are saying Yaesu looks to be a nice choice for using w/ my Autocom. I'm a little confused as to which HT's need what kind of mic adapter for the Autocom.

I've looked at these:

VX-5R, looks nice, but can I really work 6m from an HT effectively?

VX-6R, very nice and weatherproof, the caveat that it can'transmit while charging, doesn't thrill me (does this apply to all Yeasu?). Seems to be priced right

VX-7R, a little pricey and has WIRES.

I can't tell that any of these are APRS capable, as some of the Kenwoods are.

 

So tell me about the RAM mounts and whether or not you use a PTT. I checked QRZ and the MARC websites, and nobody can hold a candle to the level of propellerhead on this board.

TIA,

Darrell

[MattS]

Congratulations, Darrell, that's a cool address.

 

I (KC2MOQ) have a Yaesu VX-7R. Doesn't play well with Autocom. If you did go this route, you could pick up a Battery Eliminator that slips into the radio in place of the battery.

 

I've had better results on Tx with PTT than without. The VX-7R has a VOX setting of its own, as do many radios on the market.

 

If I were to "do it all again," I'd go with one of the Kenwoods -- more seamless integration with Autocom and built-in APRS (the Yaesu HTs don't have it).

[Scurrie]

Congrats Darrel and welcome to ham radio....

 

As for radio choices--handhelds from any of the major ham manufacturers will work with an Autocom, but you may need to do some custom cabling. The VX-7R has the slight advantage in that it is somewhat waterproof, but in my mind has one of the worst user interfaces (menu system). The Kenwood D7A is the only handheld that incorporates a built in TNC for APRS, but if you don't mind an additional little box in your tank bang (or where ever), any radio can be pressed into APRS service.

 

Things to keep in mind:

Consider your mounting options first to determine what size radio you can accomodate.

 

Are you going to run on battery only, or use a power adapter? Where will the adapter go? How will it connect to the bike electrical system (and read my post above about alternator noise).

 

Consider the size of the radio controls. Can you work them with gloves on? (not that I recommend changing things while riding, but you will need to adjust the volume)

 

Consider using a real mobile antenna instead of the rubber duck.

 

Good Luck....de NS7C

[WestTX RT]

Scurrie,

I've got a free RAM mount in the left mirror post, I thought I'd mount it there so I could use the radio with the left hand(how would this effect the need for PTT?). I've also built a three way cigarette lighter setup in the radio box that is powered by a BMW radio harness (only the XM adapter in use so far). I can plug a standard cigarette adapter in and run the power to the left handlebar w/ no problem. The Autocom is also in the glove box, so when I get the right Autocom to radio cable, I'll be very close in terms of wire distance to the radio. As far as the antenna goes, I won't have much simplex bike to bike, since no one I ride w/ even has FRS. I think initially, most of my on riding communications would be via repeater. As far as the controls go, I'd like a radio w/ easy presets so you could tune w/ one button. It seems to make sense to have a radio that is PC progammable so you can store configurations based on the areas you are travelling. The APRS sounds fun, but I'd think WIKES and other data forms would be more practical. Any models come to mind?

[Scurrie]

Darrell--

 

Well, if you are going to use a RAM mount in that location, that limits you (IMHO) to the new bread of small handhelds. I am assuming you are thinking handheld here. I am considering installing a mobile rig with a removable head that I would mount on the bars, but we'll leave that for another discussion. The handhelds that come to mind are:

Yaesu VX-7R or VX-5R

Kenwood TH-F6A

ICOM IC-T90A

Alinco DJ-V5TH

These are all multiband radios, all small, all computer programmable and all have vastly different user interfaces, and all carry a big price tag. I have some "play" time on all of them and own a TH-F6A. All have what I consider small controls that are barely useable with gloves on. Forget pushing the buttons, all you can do is adjust the volume and change channels. Anything else and you better pull over and take your gloves off. The F6A has built in VOX, but I'm not sure how useful that is on a bike, I prefer a real PTT button and one mounted very close to my left thumb. Don't plan on using the PTT on the side of the radio, it won't work well with gloves on.

 

WIRES is an interesting system, but has not seen much market penetration. Don't expect to use it much. ICOM's D-Star has much more potential, but we are just starting to see those radios, and none are really good for a bike. The Kenwood D7 (a bit large for your mount) has some additional function beyond just APRS, but nothing you would want to do while riding. I suppose you need to put some consideration on what you might want to do with the radio when it is not on the bike before you make a final decision.

 

I would suggest a real antenna mount (like the one Mike W. makes) and either a Comet or Diamond dual (or multi) band antenna.

 

Getting all the cables arranged neatly and also setup for easy removal of the radio is a real pain. Use lots of Velcro ties.

 

And above all, remember that riding takes a lot of concentration, don't get wrapped up in a big discussion on the repeater during heavy traffic!

 

Regards,

[Timmer]

I'm curious if you and the Autocom folks were able to come up with a solution to your TX audio problem.

 

I had the same issue with my Pro M-1 and my Kenwood TH6FA.

 

I wish Autocom would supply the circuit diagram and the specs for things like input and output impedences.

[SageRider]

I wish Autocom would supply the circuit diagram and the specs for things like input and output impedences.

Autocom's "It's proprietary. Can't tell you" attitude cost it any possibility of a sale to me.

At least providing interface specifications would be very helpful.

[Tom B]

Autocom will tell you what we know, but not what we don’t, just ask (UK)

[SageRider]

Tom,

Thank you for the reply. At present, I am happy with my current setup. I will keep you in mind next time I am considering Autocom equipment.

[Scurrie]

Tim and others--

 

The short answer is yes, Simon at Autocom gave me the information I needed to increase the TX output on my Active-7. He informed me of course, that my modification would void the warranty (which in my case had already expired) and that I would be dealing with SMT devices (which I have experience working with). Please do not ask me for the modification, I promised I would not share it. If you have a need for this information, I am sure the folks at Autocom will work directly with you. And by the way, they offered to make the change for me if I sent my unit back.

 

I can understand their reasons for not publishing the details of the input and output circuits, it is really only a very small percentage of their customers that have the skills and desire to go "under the covers". For the rest of their customer base they prefer to have a turn-key solution that does not require modification, and I think for the most part they have achieved that. Since they appear to be willing to work with those of us that have special needs, I see no problem not having the specs.

 

I also cured the alternator noise when connected to the radio by building my own isolation circuit. I would be glad to share that with anyone who needs it.

 

Regards,

[Bonez]

Check these guys out. They have all kinds of good info.

 

MARC

 

 

[Timmer]

Tom

I got the info I needed from Simon.

Thanks!

[WestTX RT]

Ok guys, I'm on the air.

I have a new VX-6R, that KK got me for my birthday (what a great lady, she's bought most of my guns, and my gadgets for me). And I have a couple of questions:

The 6R and the 7R have the same plug, I've been told by the radio shop, so it looks like the Autocom PN#IL-VX7 is the right inteface for the radio. I'm mounting the radio on the left mirror post RAM mount and would like to use the PN#136 for the PTT. Am I going to have enough cable to run down into the radio box?

I'm also thinking that there's no ground loop isolation in these cables, so I'll have to run it off the internal battery to prevent any noise, is that correct?

I'm getting close to talking a couple of other buddies around here into getting their own setups for bike to bike. The VX-6R has a cool feature ARTS (Automatic Range Transponder System). Has anyone used this bike to bike?

I understand that the normal frequency for contacting someone (other than a local or linked repeater) is 146.920. How do you make contact on this channel, and can it be used in emergencies?

Thanks in advance,

[Woodie]

Interesting thread...I hadn't read it in a while. Since I have an RT-P, with a nice "radio box" sitting behind me, can anyone recommend some removable head units?

 

I plan to use the nice antenna mount left behind by the CHP.

[Kenny2]

Woody,

Kenwood has TM D 700A or

Yaesu FT7800 or 8800 or 8900.

Just for starters.

The Kenwood allows communicating your position, I believe. It is called APRS.

Good Luck. I still haven't decided.

[Timmer]

Another option is the Icom 2720. I've been running one for several years now and it's a decent radio. If you're into position reporting and APRS, then the Kenwood is the way to go.

[DGuy]

I run a Yeasu VX-5R with an Autocom and it works just fine.

 

And Darrel, the National Hailing Frequency for Two Meters is 146.520MHz.