Which dSLR?

[Twisties]

Assuming a budget of $2200 for body and lenses, remote and lens hoods...

 

Uses: Off the motorcycle shots. Seeking better dynamic range and image quality than possible with Canon SD 870 IS for keeper shots to print. Will continue to use the Canon 870 for on bike shots. Many desert shots with high contrast lighting. Shoot some wide angle landscapes, some wildlife zoom. Would probably shoot RAW and high quality JPEG if camera allowed it. Otherwise high quality JPEG.

 

I'm getting a pretty fair idea of the differences in bodies, but am totally clueless as to nuances of glass... well I know glass is critical, but don't understand what is what in glass.

 

Some options:

 

Nikon D300 w/18-200mm AF-S DX VR Zoom-Nikkor

f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED $2149

 

Nikon D300 Body only $1799... you tell me what lenses... but that doesn't leave very much for lenses.

 

Nikon D80 w/18-135mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S

Zoom-NIKKOR Lens and # 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED AF-S

VR Zoom-NIKKOR Lens with optical image stabilization $1499

 

Nikon D80 Body only... you tell me what lenses. Body $720

 

Canon EOS 40D w/EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens $1309, plus I would need another lens, maybe two other lenses as this lens lacks both wide angle and zoom.

 

Canon EOS 40D body only... you tell me what lenses Body $1139, leaves $1060 for lenses, hood, remote/cable release whatever goes with it... I'm leaning towards this one.... But don't know what lenses.

 

Nikon D60 w/18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II AF-S DX VR Zoom NIKKOR Lens and 55-200mm f/4-5.6G IF-ED AF-S DX VR Zoom NIKKOR Lens $999

 

Canon Rebel XTi with two kit lenses (don't have exact specs right now), wide angle 18, zoom to 250.

[velomoto]

A similar thread with slightly different budget here... linky

 

I've got the D300 and 18-200 and so far have been mostly pleased. My lens (like many other samples of the 18-200) suffers from "lens creep" (ie. the zoom will change when shooting in a vertical position - up or down). Since I don't normally shoot up or down it's not a problem - just an annoyance knowing the lens does this.

 

Another option - Nikon D40 (not 40X) and a couple good lenses. The ideal lens really depends on what you're going to shoot and the lighting conditions. I shoot a lot of indoor sports and thus appreciate a fast lens. The 18-200 is for outdoor and flash photography.

[MikeRC]

Jan:

 

You take some pretty fine photos with what you have, a dSLR should be worthwhile. I have just gone through the same quest over the last two months:

So if you were considering "moving up" to a dSLR . There are some very good suggestions in that thread.

 

In many ways the more I looked the more confused I got. I decided to look at forum comments as well as reviews at Digital Camera Reviews, Imaging Resource and Steve's Digicams . Some of the things I overlooked at first that I considered more with time were lens reviews (at DP Review and SLR Gear ) and issues like focusing time and method, exposure methods, water resistance, dynamic range, Live View, image stabilization method, LCD viewing angles, high ISO performance, total weight and cost of future lenses.

 

I suggest not looking for one of the "do it all" lenses. Most of the zooms that try to cover too much (say over 28 to 100mm 35mm equivalent) have high f-stops that limit depth-of-field fine tuning, softness at the corners and high distortion. Look closely at the lens reviews and user comments.

 

And you will almost always shoot in RAW when you have a good camera. So get Photoshop (even Elements 5 and 6 have RAW converters). Save the Canon 870 for the JPEG stuff.

 

Mike Cassidy

[ShovelStrokeEd]

I'm currently using a D40 with the following lenses.

Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 HSM a little plasticey but takes good fotos.

Nikon AFS Nikkor 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 kit lens came with the camera, actually not too bad.

Nikon AFS Nikkor 55-200mm f4-5.6 another kit lens.

Nikon AFS Nikkor 70-300mm f4.5-5.6 VR and G glass really pretty good and I love being able to reach out and touch things hand held.

 

Trouble is, with all this stuff and a tripod, the majority of my Givi E460 is devoted to only this. In fact, I can't even fit the Manfredo good tripod and am back to a flimsy Sunpac. It's OK with the light kit lenses but marginal with the heavier glass.

 

Back to bodies.

The D80 is, IMHO, the minimum body for the Nikons. The D40 just doesn't offer enough autofocus options.

I lust after a D300 but I can't afford one right now.

 

Of the options you offered, I would go with the D300 with the 18-200. The lens is a step up in quality from the kit lenses I have and should do most of what you want. Be aware, the 300 is a beast. The D80 is much, much lighter as are the AF-S lenses.

[Matts_12GS]

I'm really satisfied w/my D40X. I like the resolution and the size of the frame. I've got a 18-55, 55-200VR, and a 70-300 for it, all told about $1400.

 

Velo, get familiar with the focus lock, I think it will cure what you're seeing with "creep"

[OverMyHead]

Canon vs. Nikon is bit of a religious debate, but I think it is generally accepted that Nikon has better wide angle glass and Canon has better telephoto zooms.

 

Dunno if the differences are significant enough to worry about though.

 

If you go the Canon D40 route, one way to go would be the EF 17-40 f/4.0L for a wide angle zoom, a EF 50 f/1.4 for normal and a EF 70-200 f/4.0L for a telephoto zoom. This might be slightly over your budget, but would cover the most used ranges with decent glass. If you are not going to use a tripod, the EF 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS would give you image stabilization with a little less range.

 

David

[Lets_Play_Two]

Canon vs. Nikon is bit of a religious debate, but I think it is generally accepted that Nikon has better wide angle glass and Canon has better telephoto zooms.

 

Dunno if the differences are significant enough to worry about though.

 

If you go the Canon D40 route, one way to go would be the EF 17-40 f/4.0L for a wide angle zoom, a EF 50 f/1.4 for normal and a EF 70-200 f/4.0L for a telephoto zoom. This might be slightly over your budget, but would cover the most used ranges with decent glass. If you are not going to use a tripod, the EF 28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS would give you image stabilization with a little less range.

 

David

 

I would agree with this except the 50mm. Instead I would suggest the 100mm macro. I see little use for a "normal" lens even though it is fast. And with the conversion factor you don't get a 50mm anyway.

 

Of course you know this is only the start because you will eventually add L glass and a longer telephoto and a dedicated flash and of course the software to process and several CF cards, a second body so you don't have to swap lenses so often and probably 6-8 camera bags for all occasions. You will then eventually convert your top case to a travel camera case!!!

[Dave C.]

I have a D80 with the 18-135 lens and the 70-200 with the f2.8 lens. The 70-200 lens is great but the size and weight of it may be a bit much to carry on a bike.

 

Dave

[Whip]

I have the D-80...

 

Nikkor(VR)......18 x 135.......12 x 24.......80 x 400.

 

You could prolly get the first two of those and the body for $2200.

 

I just started using the 12 x 24 it's amazing.

 

Whip

 

 

BTW.....it seems to be very durable, it's been boucin around on my bike for over a year now, including the Alaska trip in the tankbag of the KTM.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[OverMyHead]

Good point on the 100 f/2.8 Macro. That is another excellent lens. I just like 50 f/1.4 because it is so small, light and unbelievably sharp. It is also fast enough be used indoors without a flash. You "need" them both.

 

And you couldn't be more right about the accessories. Cameras are as bad as motorcycles when it comes to buying stuff for them.

 

David

[Mark Menard (Vita Rara)]

I'll agree that the Canon vs. Nikon debate is mostly a religious one. I'll also concede that Nikon is better on the short and Canon is better on the long end. But the difference is probably insignificant unless you're a real pixel peeper, or want to do large prints.

 

I have practical experience with a Canon 300D and 1D Mark II in the desert environs around Torrey. I would assume that the dynamic range of the sensors has improved from the 300D days, so it shouldn't be a big issue. Here are some shots from around Torrey done with my 300D: http://www.vitarara.org/cms/node/36 As you can see the results are excellent.

 

So, I guess my advice would be to look at lens systems more than the bodies themselves and buy the system that has the lenses you will likely use most. I would say if you're really interested in wide angle stuff go Nikon. If you want great telephoto go Canon. If you want an all around performer I don't think it much matters.

 

As regards the EOS 40D, which you say you're leaning towards, I'd do that and then build into the F/4L line. I'd start with the 24-105 f/4 L IS, then add the 17-40 f/4 L, and the 70-200 f/4 L w/ or w/o IS. (I got the 70-200 with the IS and I'm happy I did it's an amazing lens.) That will exceed your budget currently, but the long term plan is what matters. You could also lower your overall layout by getting a Rebel whatever, saving some money on the body.

 

In the end they are all great cameras, and your first body will not be your last. It's just too tempting to upgrade over time. It's kind of like bikes.

[Twisties]

Thanks for all the help. I'm sorting through things now. Making lots of progress.

 

Three questions:

 

1. Can anyone explain the significance of having a front element that rotates? Supposed to be an issue with filter use, particularly polarizers, but I don't understand the implications.

 

2. How reliable do you consider SLRgear's lens ratings?

 

3. How much issue are the new dust control systems and live view, e.g. the difference between the Nikon D80 and newer model bodies.

 

Thanks,

 

Jan

[Trajan]

Go to camera store. Fondle toys, er, bodies, umm, camera bodies. Get the one that feels best in your hands. Ergonomics are important and I have used less capable equipment because it felt better.

 

I chose a Pentax istD because it felt right. Added a telephoto lens, several 1 gig flash drives, mini-tripod, and a set of magnifying lenses. Less than $1,500 because I found a shop that was moving and selling inventory.

 

If I was to add one thing it would be GPS geo-marking so I would know where the hell I too that picture.

 

www.keh.com has used camera equipment at good prices.

[David]

Jan:

 

1. A star or polarizing filter will give different effects when it's rotated. If you want to achieve that on a lens without that feature, you just unscrew the filter a tad. No big deal. The more I shoot, the less I use filters anyway, except for protective ones. Speaking of which, a good one will set you back $30-75, so budget that in for each lens.

 

2. I'd be a lot more impressed with a search over at http://www.fredmiranda.com, or the user ratings built into http://www.bhphoto.com. The former, especially, takes a bit more work, but that's the best source of nerd info on the planet.

 

3. I don't think dust control is much more than a novelty. I've taken my 1DsMkII all over the planet in very nasty conditions (mainly on the back of a motorcycle on dusty roads) and only had to clean the sensor 4 times in 2.5 years. Just "blow" before you take the lens off, hold the body so that it faces down, and put the new lens on immediately. I've never shot with live view--though that's a fancy name for what a rangefinder did for decades. I suspect I'd like it, but I've never really dreamed about having it.

 

Good luck!

[OverMyHead]

1. Polarizers work by blocking light at 90 degrees perpendicular to the lens. In practice, this is accomplished by rotating the polarizer mounted to the front of the the lens to create the effect you are looking for. If the front of the lens rotates either during focusing or zooming, this means you will have to rotate the polarizer after you are finished focusing or zooming. Depending on the type of shot, this extra step can become annoying.

 

2. For lens reviews the fredmirranda suggestion is a good one. Also dpreview (mentioned earlier in this thread) has a lens review section and some fairly active discussion boards.

 

I've got no real experience with dust control systems other than to say I haven't noticed that I needed them yet.

[Twisties]

FredMiranda seems to be up and down, mostly down. The home page works most of the time, but I haven't been able to drill down into the site. I'll try them again later. Fred's photos on the home page are intriguing for sure. Looks like a nice site, thanks.

 

B&H is working for browsing and looking at user reviews, but strangely they are not accepting orders at this time. Supposed to start again tonight. Well, I'm not ready to order yet in any event.

 

Ah, the polarizing filter. It's coming back to me. I have used one sometime in the distant past. I think we must have had one with our old Pentax slr that was stolen in 1987. That camera was replaced with a Ricoh slr with kit lenses that just never quite got us excited (student budget at the time). The Ricoh is still hanging around somewhere in the basement. Since about 1998 we've been shooting digital. Mostly "prosumer" zooms from Fujifilm. The Canon 870 is the first point and shoot we've ever had. It's amazing for what it is, but it is what it is.

 

Yes, I had seen that dpreview has started reviewing lenses. So far, in their first month, they have only done 10 lenses in total, and they are mostly kit lenses. Not very useful, yet. If they continue at this pace though, should be a great thing soon. Amazon's money doesn't seem to be hurting them.

 

Slightly hijacking my own post, but I do want to say, I've been registered at dpreview for about two years but I don't post there anymore. I think their camera reviews are spot on, detailed and very useful. But their forums are just not helpful. I've been flamed or ignored every time I've posted there. In contrast, posting here on a motorcycle forum that is populated by lots of great people, and is a functioning community, is much more helpful.

 

Thanks everyone for so much useful input. I'll put the older bodies back on my list. Silly reviewers always hyping the next new thing. You'd think they worked for the manufacturers.

 

Jan

[velomoto]

FYI - another review site with a very different (pragmatic?) perspective: KenRockwell.com

 

There is also A LOT other material on photography gear and technique. Because Ken doesn't seem to pull any of his articles this is a good place to look if you're considering some of the older Nikon lenses or bodies.

 

Good luck with your search!

[OverMyHead]

I have had a very good experience shopping with B&H. However, I believe the owners are Jewish and strictly observe Pesach (Passover). Heads up if you planning on buying in the next week or two, they stop shipping for Passover and don't even take web orders on some of the days.

 

Dunno why they are not taking orders now. I think Passover starts at sundown 4/18 and goes to sundown 4/26.

[Whip]

Lots of good info here.

 

 

Whip

[Timmer]

If you're serious about the $2200 budget, I would take a hard look at the new Canon 450D ($800 body) and a Tamron AF 18-250 f 3.5-6.3 Di-II (about $490). Stuff the $900 balance in the bank and take lots of pictures for the next 6 months. By that time you'll have figured out what lens(s) *you* need and you'll have the $$$ available to buy the best lens for *your* style of photography.

 

I'm a real fan of Canon L series glass, but a friend lent me his Tamron 18-250 recently and I have to say I was very impressed with the optical quality - especially when you consider the cost. It is an excellent value.

 

Another option close to your budget limit is the Canon 40D and a Canon 24-105 F4L, plus the remote. I have the Canon 40D, and the F4L 24-105. Highly recommended.

[Trinity]

3. I don't think dust control is much more than a novelty.

 

Sorry, but I have to disagree big time on this particular point. I had a Canon 40D for about a year before returning it to Costco. The final "nail in the coffin" was the fact that I had it in Idaho for a week last summer...bad forest fires in the area left an amazing amount of smoke/pollution in the air. Within three days, I had three significant dust spots on the sensor...and I never removed the battery or lens!! To say I was less than impressed with the camera's weather seals is an understatement.

 

Bottom line for me: If you have a camera with less than optimal seals OR just get unlucky with dust in the air, a built in dust particle removal system greatly increases your chances of keeping that all-important sensor clean. At this point, I would not buy a dSLR without the feature.

 

YMMV

[David]

So what happens to the dust that gets "cleaned" by that fancy gizmo? Is it actually removed (like a normal sensor cleaning method)?

[smiller]

So what happens to the dust that gets "cleaned" by that fancy gizmo?

I was wondering the same thing a while ago and as far as I can tell the dust is (depending on the design) captured somewhere by either adhesive or some electrostatic system. What I couldn't find was any info as to whether these secondary capture devices are supposed to be good for the life of the camera or serviced at some interval.

[Boffin]

In most cases the dust is caught by a sticky pad at the base of the sensor.

 

My Sony Alpha uses its IS servo motors to shake the sensor at shut-down and, like most cameras, has an anti-static dust-resistant shield in front of the sensor. I have seen on a couple of occasions dust spots that dissapear between sequences of shots where I have shut the camera down between sequences. IMHO, active dust removal systems are very worthwhile.

 

Andy

[Mark Menard (Vita Rara)]

Go to camera store. Fondle toys, er, bodies, umm, camera bodies. Get the one that feels best in your hands. Ergonomics are important and I have used less capable equipment because it felt better.

 

I'll second this sentiment. I was going to post the same thing, but Trajan beat me to it.

 

Ergonomics really are important. For me personally I really like the EOS ergonomics. I've tried other brands, but something intangible doesn't work for me. The EOS clicked. So, if you can, go to a store and try some camera bodies. (I'm fortunate I get to go to B&H regularly. Not good for the budget, but great for the kit.)

 

Mark

[Twisties]

Which of these options would you choose?

 

Canon EOS 40D with Canon(IS = Image Stabilization):

 

60mm f/2.8 EF-S Macro USM (no IS)

70-300mm f/4-5.6 EF USM IS (front element rotates)

18-55 f/3.5-5.6 EF IS (front element rotates)

 

$2234.85 plus lens hoods and filters

 

OR

 

Nikon D80 with Nikkor (VR = Vibration Reduction):

 

105mm f/2.8 AF Micro VR (Macro lens)

70-300 f/4.5-5.6 IF-ED AF-S VR

16-85 f/3.3-5.6G ED AF-S VR DX

 

for $2549.85 plus filters (lens hoods included)

 

OR

 

Nikon D300 with Nikkor:

 

70-300 f/4.5-5.6 IF-ED AF-S VR

18-70 f/3.5-4.5G IF-ED AF-S DX (no VR)

 

and get a macro lens later, maybe a better wide angle zoom later too

 

for $2555 plus filters (lens hoods included)?

 

Or substitute the D60 in the D80 line-up above (adds dust reduction, IR remote, range finder, D-lighting and other modernizations), but would require shooting RAW, getting some RAW software, and doesn't auto-bracket. For $2340.

 

Comments on the above selections welcomed.

 

P.S. Canon EOS 450 (Rebel XSi) doesn't seem to be available yet, but I am thinking about it.

 

Jan

[Twisties]

Go to camera store. Fondle toys, er, bodies, umm, camera bodies. Get the one that feels best in your hands. Ergonomics are important and I have used less capable equipment because it felt better.

 

I'll second this sentiment. I was going to post the same thing, but Trajan beat me to it.

 

Ergonomics really are important. For me personally I really like the EOS ergonomics. I've tried other brands, but something intangible doesn't work for me. The EOS clicked. So, if you can, go to a store and try some camera bodies. (I'm fortunate I get to go to B&H regularly. Not good for the budget, but great for the kit.)

 

Just got back from the store. Saw Nikon D40, D60, D80 and Canon Rebel XTi, XSi (it may not be available on line yet, but it is there in the flesh at the store), and 40D. Only one we would have liked to see but didn't was the Nikon D300. Based on a few minutes with each, am tending towards the smaller bodies. May hold off until the Rebel XSi is reviewed.

 

Liked the Nikon lenses better, no question there that they work/feel better in this price range. Unfortunately, Nikon doesn't have a body to compete with the XSi. The D80 is big and heavy and lacks current features, the D60 lacks guts.

Mark

 

Liked the Nikon shutter position and positive half-down feel. Liked the Canon grip and viewfinder displays. I think it's going to be a matter of just buying one. There is no right or wrong, there is no best, it's solely a matter of which compromises you choose to live with.

 

Jan

[Lynn]

B&H is working for browsing and looking at user reviews, but strangely they are not accepting orders at this time. Supposed to start again tonight. Well, I'm not ready to order yet in any event.

 

The owners of both B&H and Adorama are Jewish. B&H does not take any orders at all (via any means) on the Sabbath.

 

Adorama will accept orders, but will not process or ship any orders during the Sabbath.

[HexHead]

I'm leaning towards the D60 myself, unless I can score a deal on a D40 body and the 18-55 VR lens.

In the $2000 range, I'd opt for the D80 with the 18-200 ED VR lens. I'm on another forum with a bunch of guys that are really into this stuff and that 18-200 lens has really gotten some great feedback.

[Twisties]

.... Canon EOS Rebel XSi (EOS 450D) with

 

Kit lens EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM

EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

3 Sigma UV filters

An RC-1 Wireless Remote

3 8 GB SDHC Speed Class 6 cards (one for Sharon's Zumo)

3 Precision Design Lens Hoods

 

Total cost less tax, shipping and the extra SDHC card for the Zumo: $2208.83 Pretty close to budget, but sourced from three suppliers.

 

For those that are interested: Choice of Body

 

All in all, I'm thinking it will be right for the purpose, which involves travel and walking around type shooting. The next level or two up of bodies were within reach financially, but are simply too big and heavy. The Nikon D60 is comparably small and light weight, but lacks processing power, and forces some unacceptable compromises as a result. Also lacks Live View (which I think will be very useful for shooting macro), and adequate software for processing RAW. Cnet (Lori Grunin) reviewed the XSi and stated,

 

Regardless of the other entries in the XSi's pro and con columns, it delivers hands-down, best-in-class photo quality...

 

Though it'll run you a few bucks more than competitors such as the Sony Alpha DSLR-A200 or the Nikon D60, the Canon EOS Rebel XSi will deliver slightly better performance and noticeably better photo quality in return, making it a worthwhile trade-off.

 

Another, independent reviewer compared to the Nikon D80 and gave it a hands down win there too. Yeah, the viewfinder isn't as nice as that on the D80 or EOS 40D, and continuous shooting isn't as fast, but otherwise the body is in a performance league with the next class up.

 

Choice of Lenses:

 

I can't see myself lugging 40 pounds of camera equipment around in a backpack, setting up on a tripod, focussed on an owl's nest, hidden, and waiting hours for the light to get perfect, and the owl to show. My style of photography, at least today, is active. Size and weight matter. Therefore I'm not going to have many top class lenses. They have narrow functionality (primes or short range zooms), and are large, and heavy. Therefore, for the most part I looked for lenses that would deliver good, if not stellar performance, were reasonably priced, were smaller, and lighter.

 

The Nikons were the hands down winner in these regards. Even with respect to the one lens I chose to go whole hog on, the macro lens, the Nikon equivalent had far superior characteristics (VR, 9 diaphram blades and a reputation for beautiful bokeh, and great depth of field in user posted photos). I wrestled with this over the weekend, and today. The Fred Miranda site was very helpful, as were SLRgear and DPreview. I also found some independent reviews. Fred Miranda's forums are very high quality. The bottom line came down to this: Canon's lenses in the class had generally acceptable image quality perhaps marginally less sound than Nikon's, but sound and far better than anything I've ever owned. The issues related more to build quality than image quality. Front elements that rotate, a light plasticky feel, adjustments that aren't super smooth. That sort of thing. In the end I decided that lots of people get lots of great pictures with these lenses, that light weight sounded good to me, and I'd give it a try. I had intended to get a better wide to mid angle zoom, but the kit lens was essentially free (the only "body only" price I could find was the same as what I payed for body kit lens package elsewhere). It had the worst reviews of those I ended up with, but still a lot of people like it. It's much better than it's predecessor. I figure I'll try it, and buy another later if I need to. The other choices are all sound will be keepers for sure.

 

Thanks for all your help! Oh yeah, the battery should be charged by now....

 

Jan

[Francois_Dumas]

Looking forward to great pictures Jan... congrats on your new tool !

[Mark Menard (Vita Rara)]

.... Canon EOS Rebel XSi (EOS 450D) with

 

Kit lens EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM

EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

3 Sigma UV filters

An RC-1 Wireless Remote

3 8 GB SDHC Speed Class 6 cards (one for Sharon's Zumo)

3 Precision Design Lens Hoods

 

Total cost less tax, shipping and the extra SDHC card for the Zumo: $2208.83 Pretty close to budget, but sourced from three suppliers.

 

Sounds like a great kit.

 

The Nikons were the hands down winner in these regards. Even with respect to the one lens I chose to go whole hog on, the macro lens, the Nikon equivalent had far superior characteristics (VR, 9 diaphram blades and a reputation for beautiful bokeh, and great depth of field in user posted photos).

 

Citing the depth of field as a superior characteristic seems somewhat dubious. Depth of field can no be influenced by a manufacturer, other than making the aperture larger. A 100mm f/2.8 lens regardless of manufacturer will have the same exact depth of field characteristics. It's just physics.

 

The other choices are all sound will be keepers for sure.

 

Just don't compare them to any L glass, or you'll be selling them on Fred Miranda and upgrading.

 

Good luck with your kit. It's a lot to master. Take lots and lots of pictures and then look at your settings, light, composition, etc. and learn. It's a great hobby.

 

 

Mark

[Whip]

Sounds great!!!!

 

 

When we gonna see some pix???????

 

 

...please.......no more birds or flowers....That goes for you too Tom...(Did ya like my birds???? )

 

 

 

Whip

[Twisties]

Well we were noticing that Nikon photog was using mostly f/8 while the Canon photog was using mostly f/5.6....

 

Both get some great shots. We talked about if it was all the f-stop setting or not, but weren't sure if other lens characteristics played a role.

 

For fun (These are some great shots:

 

Sinkar with Canon 100mm Macro

 

Deviant Art Nikon 105mm Micro (non-VR version) Click these twice to get them up to full size, some are amazing.

[Whip]

...insects and reptiles are good.

 

 

 

Whip

[Twisties]

 

When we gonna see some pix???????

 

Trying, seems smugmug has gone down.

[Twisties]

Sounds great!!!!

 

 

When we gonna see some pix???????

 

 

...please.......no more birds or flowers....That goes for you too Tom...(Did ya like my birds???? )

 

 

 

Whip

 

Your birds were great!

 

So far all we have are birds and flowers, just a few shots around the house. Nothing special, nothing that I would normally think of posting. Only one lens, the kit lens, is in hand as of yet. It was grey skies and very hazy here today. Not a great photo day.

 

Little T's Very Little Vineyard aka the upper level of our backyard, this afternoon:

 

 

 

 

And from the front yard, the front yard lacks an aka, it's just the front yard,

 

 

Jan

[Mark Menard (Vita Rara)]

It was grey skies and very hazy here today. Not a great photo day.

 

Isn't that just a bummer when you get new camera gear! It's the worst. You want to get out there and take pictures but the light just isn't there.

 

Anyway, the sun will return, and you'll have lots of fun.

 

Mark

[Twisties]

Good luck with your kit. It's a lot to master. Take lots and lots of pictures and then look at your settings, light, composition, etc. and learn. It's a great hobby.

 

You're not kidding!!!!

 

Oh well, another nice post lost to "form no longer valid". Arrrghgghh!!!! *#*#*#*###

 

I'll spare you the nice long paragraph that went with each shot. Lens, exposure info, what I was trying to accomplish, or what I learned. Ok, let's be honest here, I'm sparing myself writing it all again. ....and no, please don't tell me how to avoid this problem. I know how. That doesn't mean I always remember.

 

Here's the shots. All but one or two are from jpgs straight off the camera. Bullett took the first two with the kit 18-55 lens last night at dusk, as the storm blew out.

 

 

 

The other two lenses arrived today. A co-worker with the macro lens:

 

 

At home with the macro lens:

 

 

 

 

With the long lens:

 

 

 

 

What I learned: Take control of ISO and use it to allow shutter aperature combinations as desired. Take control of focal plane to ensure focus is on subject. Practice being aware of all the parameters simultaneously. Watch out for images with a lot of sky being under exposed. Bracket.

 

Tomorrow will be a ride to work day . Maybe I'll throw it in the top case and see what it can do in the sun. The filters should show up tomorrow too. Better for landscape shots with the UV filter on.

 

Jan

[velomoto]

Jan, nice shots and it looks like you're enjoying the new toy! Here are a couple thots on stuff to play with...

 

For action shots try keeping the shutter slow enough to shows action. With a very fast shutter the motorcycle appears to be stationary hanging in mid air off a jump. Just a bit slower and there will be a touch of blur in the fastest moving objects in the photo - say a blur of the spokes to give a sense of speed. Similarly at the proper speed one can stop the action of a hockey game but capture a slightly blurred puck on it's way to the goal.

 

For sports/action shots set shutter speed, then adjust ISO to get desired depth of field. Conversely with landscape or other stills, adjust aperture and then adjust ISO for desired shutter speed or drop the ISO as low as possible to get optimal color/noise.

 

Enjoy!

[Twisties]

Finally got a decent shot of the quail: