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As your mechanic, I advise you to start drinking heavily...


RickP

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I post this in hope that others will be inspired as I was inspired. Heck, I've never changed the oil on this bike, and I jumped into this. Special thanks go to Rightspin for his inspiration and sharing of information (I sort of copied his). And thanks to KMG_365 for giving me the courage to take the gas tank off--it made things a lot easier.

 

Before

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The mission: Remove the suburban sprawl of dealer installed electrical accessories off the battery posts and make the their fuses accessible, and NOT have to remove the tupperware AND the gas tank to change one (always great fun in the Motel-6 parking lot--in the rain). Also, allow for future additions with only left fairing panel removal.

 

Saturday

 

It's neekkid!

 

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New battery power fuse, add-a-circuit, and relay added to factory fuse/relay box through hole w/grommet. The only place I'm touching the factory harness is the horn fuse.

 

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My lifetime buddy and fellow RT owner, ex Air Force plane and avionics tech, LouK. Definitely the right skill set for the job. Spends M-F in all those places that end with 'stan. If you want to try this, Lou can be found bugging an embassy near you.

 

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Up front, common ground point and extra 12V power cables.

 

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Sunday

 

Nice and clean. 2 (large) cables to bike harness, two small to my harness. Plus, you can actually access the + jump-start point (- on the left cylinder barrel).

 

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15-amp mini-AT fuse from + battery power.

 

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Gas tank back on--by myself ! (6 gal. x 8.4 lbs. + tank + fuel filter + lines...)

 

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Close up of common ground (with screws) and additional power cables (red), GPS (with F2 label), Gerbings heated jacket liner controller (black & red w/shrink wrap).

 

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...with just a few simple hand tools

 

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The 8 circuit/5 fuse panel for my "sub-wiring-harness" mounted to frame under left side cover. Accessible with quarter-turn fastener.

 

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On tap this week, two small screw-down panels in the lower left front area. One for switched power (aux lights, Gerbings) and one for un-switched power (on unless forks are locked) for GPS, XM-radio, future bike-to-bike comm.

 

-RickP.

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I used an "add-a-circuit". Mine's a Buss BP/HHA. $6 from a local Advance Auto Parts. Plug it in in place the BMW fuse and now you have two separate (and separately fused circuits). Horn is still 7.5 amps, and the second circuit is used to turn on the the relay which applies power to the my sub-fuse-panel after key-on.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Wow, Rick! That's amazing!

 

I found this post by accident. In the future, you might try giving your threads a more descriptive title! grin.gif

 

I'm sure others would be very interested to learn from your set-up. Nice job and thanks for posting. Man, looking at my first attempt (with Sean Daly's excellent tutleage), there are so many ways I can see now to improve it. Ours still work very well, but my next bike will be easier! thumbsup.gif

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Here's the final setup. I rode in and out of the rain three times last Sunday and everything kept running. I was wondering if I should spray everything down with LPS in advance? Anyone have any thoughts?

 

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The upper barrier strip is split into switched power and common ground. The lower barrier strip is the unswitched power from the blue connector (radio?). Since the blue connector is on a 15amp fused circuit, I placed a single ATO fuseholder with a 2-amp fuse between the connector and my unswitched barrier strip, because this will be used for GPS, SAT and BtoB. This fuse is also accessible without tupperware removal--if you lay on the ground...

 

Jaime, I stole from Steve Foote, so anything you want to try or have a question on...Thanks again for your FAQ posts, I hope we meet at UN.

 

-RickP.

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