New shocks or Works Performance vs. Ohlins

[Are12C]

Recently I've been noticing a little more bounce in my RT and thanks to this forum, I've figured out that my stock shocks only have a life span of about 20K miles. Since I'm approaching 25K, I guess its time to invest in a new pair.

 

Other than a large difference in price (WP ~$1000, Ohlins ~$1500), what are the major differences between these two brands?

 

What is this forum's experience between the brands?

 

Are there other alternatives other than the stock replacements ($815) and the two above?

[tom collins]

Having had works on a previous bike and having just ordered a new set for my new 1150RT the improvement is stunning. The biggest difference between those 2 brands is that you put the works on an basically ride, very little fiddling needed. Of course, that means you have to be happy with their adjustments, I was and expect to be again. There are adjustments you can make, but only preload and damping. On the other hand, the Ohlins have many adjustments, but I have a friend who still has not figured them out in 6 months of trying. So, Works equals quick and easy, but not necessarily perfect, but real close. Ohlins equals possibly perfect but lots of adjustment. Some folks really enjoy making the adjustments and may feel thay are getting more value for the money with them. Either is a world better than stock.

 

Tom Collins

[smiller]

Another positive vote here for the Works Performance... very well-engineered units. But regarding the 'more adjustability' comment, I'm wondering... the Works unit provide adjustments for preload (both static spring setting and the excellent 'ARS' system for temporary preload increases) and damping. The only additional thing that the Ohlins shock for the BMW RT (46DRLS) seems to provide is an overall length adjustment (which is not something you should even have to play with if the shock if the right length to begin with). Beyond that I can't see any other adjustment that the Ohlins provides over the Works.

 

I would expect that the performance of both to be pretty similar (and a big improvement over stock). The Works are a little less expensive and I like their ARS system over a hydraulic adjuster, but in the Ohlins' favor they are more well-known and may fetch a better price on resale.

[GaryIF]

Don't know if they're sold yet, but someone had two new rear shocks for sale on eBay. Starting bid was $99. Could be that they were from new bikes that were getting upgraded out of the box.

[Are12C]

I really don't mind spending the money for excellent gear. What I don't want to do is purchase the same so-so stock equipment. WP sounds like the way to go so far but I'm still interested in hearing anything about the Ohlins.

[DavidEBSmith]

The big advantages of Works and Ohlins shocks (and Wilbers) are (1) you can get them built to fit you, your riding style, what you carry, the type of roads you ride, etc., whereas the stock shocks are a compromise to fit the "average" rider (who is apparently about 160 lbs in BMW's mind), and (2) you can get the aftermarket shocks rebuilt for far less than replacing the stock shocks. I have about 90K on my Works shocks and have had them rebuilt twice, at about $200 per rebuild. So over 90K miles, I've spent about $1000 + $200 + $200 = $1400 for aftermarket shocks, whereas if I stuck with stock shocks I would have paid $815 + $815 + $815, or $2445 over the same mileage.

[rtrox]

With the Works Performance rear shock do you lose the hydraulic preload adjuster?

 

Thanks.

[smiller]

With the Works Performance rear shock do you lose the hydraulic preload adjuster?

Yes, you do 'lose' the hydraulic preload adjuster, but what you get in it's place is the Works ARS preload adjustment system which is easier to use and much more positive in operation, or at least that's the way I see it.

 

BTW their web site is not very well done and it can be a little confusing when looking for the right application... to see the correct rear shock for the RT go to http://www.worksperformance.com/html/bmw.html and click on 'Ultrasport w/DRS & ARS'.

 

 

[fgunde]

With the Works Performance rear shock do you lose the hydraulic preload adjuster?

 

Thanks.

 

 

Works offered to use the hydraulic preload adjuster off my old rear shock. I found a new used rear shock on the net and sent it to them when they called and were ready for it. Installed the short shocks on my 04 RT last saturday.

 

Francis

[Are12C]

So I'm to understand that I'll no longer be able to tailor my suspension to account for luggage, passenger, and luggage and passenger? Nor stiffen it up for the twisties and soften it for the superslab?

[Jim VonBaden]

I have Ohlins on my RS and it is like night and day from stock. However, most of the aftermarket vendors have excellent products.

 

If you shop around a bit you can get prices on Ohlins coming much closer to $1K. I'm sure Kyle Racing can do better than $1500, and they will set up the shocks for your anticipated ride weight.

 

Jim

[smiller]

So I'm to understand that I'll no longer be able to tailor my suspension to account for luggage, passenger, and luggage and passenger? Nor stiffen it up for the twisties and soften it for the superslab?

No, not at all. The ARS mechanism is a system for adjusting preload, just like the hydraulic adjuster. The systems work differently but both accomplish exactly the same function, that is, to temporarily increase spring preload to compensate for additional loads.

 

Or, it appears, Works can also install the haudraulic adjuster for you if you prefer that type of system.

[Are12C]

Thanks, Jim. Picked up the Ohlins for just over $1200. You saved me a bunch. Any tips on setting the sag or special tricks for installation?

[rtrox]

How is the preload adjustment done on the ARS system?

 

Thanks.

 

The ARS mechanism is a system for adjusting preload, just like the hydraulic adjuster. The systems work differently but both accomplish exactly the same function, that is, to temporarily increase spring preload to compensate for additional loads.

[smiller]

How is the preload adjustment done on the ARS system?

 

In a Works rear shock with the ARS/DRS (dual rate spring) option there is a secondary, lighter-weight spring that operates in junction with the main spring to provide dual-rate spring operation during normal use. The ARS system is a stepped collar that you can rotate and remove some of the travel of the lighter weight spring, thus stiffening the preload rate. With the ARS feature completely disengaged you have a dual-rate spring (providing a nice ride, etc.) and at the other extreme you essentially bypass the lower-rate spring and operate only on the main (stiffer) spring. Kind of hard to explain but easy to see how it operates when looking at the shock. Anyway I hope this helps a little...

[Jim VonBaden]

Thanks, Jim. Picked up the Ohlins for just over $1200. You saved me a bunch. Any tips on setting the sag or special tricks for installation?

 

Gald I could help.

 

To be honest, for the setup, you would be better off waiting for Mike W to give you the explaination. I'm sure he will be along soon to direct you. He wrote a whole procedure that is very comprehensive!

 

Paging Mike (whateveryoucallyouerselftoday)

 

Jim

[Tool Man]

To be honest, for the setup, you would be better off waiting for Mike W to give you the explaination. I'm sure he will be along soon to direct you. He wrote a whole procedure that is very comprehensive!

 

Paging Mike (whateveryoucallyouerselftoday)

 

Jim

 

Hi Jim....got your page

 

Hi Michael,

Congrats on making the plunge. IMOP the stock RT suspension is only good for the ride home from the dealer.

 

First you need to install them which is about a 3hr job with a soda break.

 

Ohlins Install RT

 

 

It is not necessary to remove the front wheel to R&R the front shock. Actually leaving the front wheel on keeps the front suspension from drooping to far.

 

Removing and installing the shocks on an RT is as easy as it gets. It shouldn't take more than 3hrs from start to finish for both shocks. Steps below are for an RT but can apply to other models.

 

Front shock:

1) Put the bike on the center stand.

2) Remove bodywork.

3) Remove bolt that secures the tank.

4) Slide the tank back to expose the upper mount.

5) Remove the nut and rubber grommet from the upper shock mount. (the front tire will slowly droop to the floor)

6) Remove the lower shock bolt and pull the shock down and out of it's upper mount.

7) Remove the rubber grommet from the old shock and install it on the new shock (if applicable)

 

That's it, repeat steps in reverse to install.

 

Rear shock: The 1150's lower shock mount is an eye mount and the 1100's are a clevis style mount but the procedure is the same. You will need some wood blocks or floor jack, or any other device for holding up the swing arm.

 

1) Put bike on center stand.

2) Remove bodywork.

3) Remove rear tire.

4) Remove all hardware for the side foot peg mount cover but do not disconnect shift linkage. Lay it out of your way for access to the lower shock mount.

5) Remove lower shock bolt while holding the swing arm/driveshaft. Rest the swing arm/drive shaft on a floor jack or wood blocks.

6) Remove the upper shock bolt and pull the shock out from the bottom.

 

That's it again, repeat steps to install.

 

 

Now you need to set them up correctly:

 

Ohlins Set Up

 

I know the Ohlins direction sheet can be confusing. Maybe I can help clear up your questions. Assuming you have the correct spring installed the following rules apply.

Yes, your "static" measurement will be less than an inch. I'll use inches instead of metric....who has a metric tape measure? Before you start setting up the suspension get a notebook and log everything. This will help you later if you make any adjustments later. You can always go back and start over.

 

For the front "static" sag adjust Front= between 5/8" - 1-3/16" Rear= between 3/8" - 3/4"

 

 

Once the static is set...forget those numbers exist for now. Sit on the bike with everything on helmet etc. This is where you need additional help holding the bike up and someone taking the measurements for you. You can tip toe to hold the bike up yourself if you must.

 

Front ride height settings: 1" - 1-1/2"

Rear ride height settings: 1-3/8" - 2"

 

I know what your thinking, "If I change the spring preload it will change my static setting" Yes it will, but if you go back and check the static maybe your still in the bandwidth sort of speak. This is where having the correct spring for your weight, bike, gear etc. comes in. I happen to be an off the shelf spring given my weight is 155-160 lbs.

 

There is allot of free adjustment room with those numbers that if the spring is correct you should fall somewhere in the range. In fact there should be room to play if you want a little more preload for spirited riding or rough roads.

 

I try to set mine up to where it's compliant enough to be highway friendly but supported enough to work well for me in mountain riding. Try to keep that thought in mind when your setting damping adjustments. You'll know when you get it right. Try this on the back shock. Start with backing the adjustment knob all the weigh out. Now have someone hold the handlebars and you go around back and grab the luggage rack and cycle the suspension up and down. It will be very mushy. Now start turning the adjusting knob clockwise a few clicks at a time and repeat the cycling motion. Keep doing this until it slows the movement down and feels good and not stiff. I would guess you will end up at about 25-30 clicks by the time it feels close to where it should be. Now do it on the front shock the same way.

 

But remember this, you must compromise and be creative when riding two up if you have ordered your shock for your weight. There's no way they can provide a spring that will work for a 165# rider that rides 80% of the time solo and then has the pleasure of a companion for the day that weighs 120# and expect the same results...just ain't going to happen. I set up my bikes for ME. Then when the wife wants to go I turn in 4 full turns of preload in the rear and 5 clicks more dampning and it works close enough for the day..weekend whatever. Then I set it back to where it was upon returning.

 

I hope this has been some help and feel free to PM with any ?

 

Mike W.

[IrishST]

I don't think this is completely accurate, with Ohlins you can get the spring matched to your weight. With Wilbers or Works I believe they will actually put in valving to match your riding style in addition to the correct spring.

I just order a set of Wilbers for my 99, originally I was going to go with Works but I wanted the external adjust and some guys I trust thought Wilbers were better. But since I'm in Wisconsin it'll take some time before I can experience my new bike

[Are12C]

WOW!!!

 

This is the best modification I've ever made to my motorcycles. If I'd known how my RT would ride after swapping out the suspension components, I'd have done it at the dealer before bringing it home.

 

Thanks Mike!

 

 

Now for the cruiser...

[Rinkydink]

C'mon ARE12C, tell us how you really feel! Is it really "that" good?

[Tool Man]

FYI,

Ohlins will do valve modifications for the original owner per rider input for a one time no cost.

 

Mike W.

[Ryan_R]

just curious... i hear a lot of people's positive reaction after installing aftermarket shocks. from reading past threads, it seems the stock shocks were designed for a ~170lb rider. now, if i were to upgrade to ohlins would i notice a significant difference in ride performance even though i only weigh in at 165lb??? (for comparison, assume a new stock shock, since any type of shock installed after an old shock with many miles would be a huge difference).

 

i guess what i'm trying to determine is whether the $1k upgrade would really be worth it for me? i currently have 18k miles on the RT.

 

--ryan

[jim c]

give me a few weeks to give you an answer. i just ordered a set of works 1" shorter shocks. i'm sending them my old shock so the can use the adj for the rear. they asked me about weight of rider, passenger, how often i have a passenger, and rider experience. also told him i haul a uni-go trailer sometimes. hopefuly they'll be here befor the TD i'm holding.................

[Are12C]

I've only ridden the new suspension around town so far and to try to put into words what the difference is...well, that's a little difficult. The suspension feels tighter but more compliant at the same time. The small bumps that I used to feel aren't there anymore. Riding across railroad tracks is smoother than I could have imagined. As a comparison (not fair because the other bike is my R1200C) all the imperfections in the road seem to melt away into almost nothing with the new suspension. In sweeping turns, the bike feels incredibly stable. Of course when you've ridden your bike for 20K miles, the changes would have been subtle.

I looked at it this way:

 

So over 90K miles, I've spent about $1000 + $200 + $200 = $1400 for aftermarket shocks, whereas if I stuck with stock shocks I would have paid $815 + $815 + $815, or $2445 over the same mileage.

Your're going to have to replace your shocks or the bike at some point in time and replacing with stock shocks just doesn't make sense when you do the math if you're going to keep the motorcycle for another 20K miles. (I replaced mine at 27K.)

[Tool Man]

from reading past threads, it seems the stock shocks were designed for a ~170lb rider. if i were to upgrade to ohlins would i notice a significant difference in ride performance even though i only weigh in at 165lb???

 

Yes, and yes,

The springs are a 35lb variable plus or minus.IMOP, It'll also be the best kilo buck you ever put forth to improve this specific motorcycle. Your weight puts you in the off the shelf catagory for spring rate,still depending on you needs,ie: payload,passenger etc. The RT suspension is whoefully under sprung and under dampened. Great bike out of the box other than that.

 

Mike W.