Rear wheel play

[C5INC]

I have a 99 R1100RT with 62000 miles. I recently noticed a fair amount of side to side movement in the rear wheel. It looks like it moves where the rear end joins the drive shaft. I checked my buddies lower mileage,identical bike and it has no movement at all. Since I know nothing about shaft drive rearends, I'm thinking I'll take it to the dealer but I'd like to get some opinions first.

Thanks.

[T__]

I have a 99 R1100RT with 62000 miles. I recently noticed a fair amount of side to side movement in the rear wheel. It looks like it moves where the rear end joins the drive shaft. I checked my buddies lower mileage,identical bike and it has no movement at all. Since I know nothing about shaft drive rearends, I'm thinking I'll take it to the dealer but I'd like to get some opinions first.

Thanks.

 

Is it loose at the pivot points shown (red arrows)? If so you either have worn out pivot bearings or that are just slightly worn & loose..

 

You will need to heat the pivots at their threaded in point to remove them without thread damage to the tube’s soft aluminum threads (a heat gun or pin point torch) .. Once removed you can look to see if they totally worn out (if so replace with new parts) if still OK then grease them & reset to specs.. Be sure to re Lock-Tite them & torque for security & safety.. There are also some non bearing (bushing type) available from Rubber Chicken..

 

If you want to do the job yourself we can give you the needed data as far as procedure & torque values.. Not difficult if you are mechanically inclined..

 

If you looseness is from someplace else let us know…

 

Twisty

 

 

[DaveC]

Check your lug nuts!

I had mine loosen up and the rear wheel almost fall off on me.

[C5INC]

HOLY QUICK REPLY! Ya, that's where I could see movement. What's your guess on cost of a dealer doing the job?

[ianboydsnr]

They are very easy to do, hardest part is removing the threadlock from the threads, the pins are torqued to 7nm iirc, which lots of people have difficuly with, I would say torque them to 7nm then check if there is any play, if there is, tighten them slightly untill the play goes, I also know lots that dont threadlock the fittings, but its an extra safety thing worth doing in my humble opinion.

[T__]

HOLY QUICK REPLY! Ya, that's where I could see movement. What's your guess on cost of a dealer doing the job?

Jim, I have no idea as I do all my own work.. Probably a quick call to the dealer would tell you though..

 

Hopefully someone with dealer experience on that job will chime in here..

 

It's not all that difficult to do your self.. Well not difficult except removing the inner bearing cages,, those can at times try your patience..

 

_OR_ see if there is going to be Tec Daze in your area soon (would be be a good job to do at a Tec Daze)

 

Twisty

[C5INC]

I guess I'll try it myself and save the labor money for $4.00 gas! Any info on the job would be greatly appreciated!

[T__]

I guess I'll try it myself and save the labor money for $4.00 gas! Any info on the job would be greatly appreciated!

 

Jim, here is a quick site serch of what you are looking at..

Click on this linkClick Here

 

Be sure click on the (NEXT) at bottom of page & at least look through all 249 hits (don't have to actually read them all).. There is good info in those threads.. When done reading post back here with questions,, for hints,,& what else you would like to know.. At least you should then know if you want to do the job yourself & what is involved in the operation..

 

Twisty

[Ken H.]

Also, if you decide you need new bearings, consider the aftermarket option of replacing them with bushings instead of bearings.

[flars]

As Twisty says - not difficult at all. I found the toughest part was just getting the drive shaft splines back into the rear ujoint - that part is irritating, and can be time consuming if you are unlucky, but not mechanically difficult. Remember - heat is your friend. When properly heated, the pivot pins will come loose easily.

[tomk99r11]

Use a rag, with a tail sticking out of the drive shaft housing, to support the drive shaft while you align the splines on the rear UJoint with the shaft. Once in alignment and partially meshed, pull the rag out and complete pushing the UJoint stub into the drive shaft. You may also use a piece of cardboard to support the shaft,anything to facilitate the alignment and meshing rather than create new $&@#& words.