Good news - Final drive fluid change..

[steve.foote]

At 17,000 miles, I finally got around to changing the oil in the final drive on my 05 GS. When I originally bought it, the lube in the final drive was supposed to be "lifetime" and was never changed at the 600 mile service, or any subsequent service. With all of the angst about final drives lately, and considering BMW has reconsidered the "lifetime" idea I was not sure what I was going to find when I changed it.

 

I followed 1bmwfan's excellent writeup for the procedure and everything went well. I also used the REPROM manual. The sensor had a light covering of fuzz with no solid content. The old oil was a dark honey color with a slight tide of darker oil. I was quite impressed and relieved. I'll change it again at the 24k service and then every 12k thereafter.

 

One of the things I did discover while perfoming the service is that my rear brake pads were down to almost paper-thin. I think one more ride would have likely finished off my rotor. I'll have to keep a closer eye on those.

 

Here are a couple of comments about the procedure:

 

1. There are two O-rings (drain plug and sensor) which the manual recommends replacing. I reused mine this time, but will replace both next time.

 

2. The manual also calls for replacing the upper-control strut nut. I will replace this next time, too.

 

3. I used a 30ml syringe and a short 3" plastic tube to fill the drive. It took 10 25ml shots, and though it worked, I'll probably use a funnel next time.

 

4. It's really easy to spill oil while you are filling the drive, so you have to pay close attention to the amount you spilled and make sure you compensate.

 

5. Before you re-install the rear wheel, check the wheel stud holes on the hub for oil from the filling process. It would be really easy to accidentally contaminate one or more studs creating the potential for a really bad day.

 

6. Finally, I mark my wheel studs with a dot of white paint to provide a visual reference in case one of the studs begins to loosen up.

 

 

With all the bad news being posted about the final drives, I wanted to provide some positive 'spin.'

[Jim VonBaden]

Nice job!

 

I too reused the O-rings, and the nut, twice so far. I will replace the O-rings this time.

 

I also used this to fill the FD. It makes a lot less mess, no spilling if you take it slow.

 

 

 

Jim

[gettysburg]

Advanced Auto Parts sells a screw-on adaptor with a length of hose. The one end screws tightly onto the gear oil containter; the other end fits snugly into the ABS sensor hole. It also features an open/close valve to stop the flow of oil from the container. From what I recall, it's cost between $3-$5. I've used it several times and haven't spilled a drop yet.

 

[JayW]

I like to refill the FD using a syringe with the end of the plastic end cap cut off. This allows exact measuring of fluid, no spilling, and is even sterile.

 

Jay

[Rider1200RT]

I like to refill the FD using a syringe with the end of the plastic end cap cut off. This allows exact measuring of fluid, no spilling, and is even sterile.

 

Jay

 

A sterile environment is the most important aspect of keeping the 1200 FD's in one piece....

[steve.foote]

Good idea, Jimbo. You are the master of the pennytech.

[JayW]

A sterile environment is the most important aspect of keeping the 1200 FD's in one piece....

 

That's right. Heaven forbid that a resistant Staph or some other pathogen should be introduced into the final drive. For all we know, the source of the failures we're hearing about is FDF (final drive flu).

 

One can't be too safe here - I recommend changing syringes with each new fluid exchange.

 

Jay

[Rotor]

3. I used a 30ml syringe and a short 3" plastic tube to fill the drive. It took 10 25ml shots, and though it worked, I'll probably use a funnel next time.

FYI:

I've used a funnel and it takes forever. I don't do funnels anymore. You'll be happier with one of the other posters method.