Plan to restore valve cover/cylinder head repair, comments please

[jerseygeorge]

Guys and Gals-

 

When I purchased my R1150RS both cylinder heads / valve covers were scratched from driveway rollovers (although if you were to look closely you would see that one is bigger than when I bought it ).

 

My plans to recondition them are as follows. Please critique.

 

I pulled both heads and filed down the scratches. Tomorrow I will bring it in to work and finish on a belt sander, and then do some polishing. Then I want to send the heads off to a ceramic plating company and have them recoat the heads, maybe in something close to the original coloer, maybe in chrome for the hell of it. This is the company I plan to use. Powderbarons Powder/Chrome Coater

 

Total cost should be $100 bucks for ceramic and I won't have to look at scratches anymore(till next time).

 

There is a coating on the existing magnesium that looks like a powder coat so I am not sure how the ceramic will cover, or how another powder coat will adhere. I will let the shop advise me on that.

 

But if I do send the covers down, I assume the plastic has to come off (must be heat involved in the process). Is there an easy way to remove the rubber inserts that the four screws go through? Just punch them out? Same thing with the oil filler cap. When I remove the cap, there is still a plastic insert. Any thoughts on easy removal of that?

 

I appreciate any comments on the process, and any hints for removal of the four bushings and oil filler thingy. Normally I just pound, pry and bugger up everything then ask for help. This time I am going to try the opposite.

 

Thanks,

JG

[Tony_K]

All the plastic rubber stuff comes out easy enough.

 

The most import part from you is to get the scratches out and the proper profile back. I assume your scratches are not too substantial are they truly into the alloy?

 

It's important to get the damaged area nice and smooth.

 

Your powder coater should do the rest of the stripping.

[Woodie]

The gaskets on the valve-cover bolts are soft rubber, just pull them out.

[Davis]

and the oil filler insert is just pressed in. Stick a screwdriver through it and pop it out. Good time to replace the o-ring on the oil filler insert while it's out.

[jerseygeorge]

The most import part from you is to get the scratches out and the proper profile back. I assume your scratches are not too substantial are they truly into the alloy?

The scratches on one side are rather deep. I have a metal working belt sander with a 2" wide belt. The platen behind the belt is removable. I think I can sand the scratches out and keep the profile.

[Tony_K]

Keep in mind that when using a mechanical belt sander the leading edge will be more aggressive with the cut. You may not be able to control the profile as well as you think.

 

Personally I would use a air powered mini right angle finish grinder with a 3M Roloc abrasive disk or a electric or air orbital finishing sander.

 

This will give you infinitely more control over the situation.

 

Fine finish comes by way of 3M conditioning disc on the right angle to take out the scaring.

[AndyS]

Guys and Gals-

 

 

My plans to recondition them are as follows. I pulled both heads and filed down the scratches. Tomorrow I will bring it in to work and finish on a belt sander, and then do some polishing. Then I want to send the heads off to a ceramic plating company and have them recoat the heads, maybe in something close to the original coloer, maybe in chrome for the hell of it. This is the company I plan to use. Powderbarons Powder/Chrome Coater

 

Total cost should be $100 bucks for ceramic and I won't have to look at scratches anymore(till next time).

 

 

I appreciate any comments on the process.

 

Thanks,

JG

My advice is don't use a belt sander. It seldom gives satisfactory results on compound curves.

Your final finish will only be as good as your preparetory work, so little by little and don't be too eager to get it into the refinishing dept until you are really satisfied with the blending and polishing.

Why Ceramic coat? why not repowder coat?

Andy

[notacop]

Golly, I just painted a extra set of covers in glorious textured black for less than 10 bucks. Maybe a set of expensive cover protectors and a cheap paint job would do more to protect against future oppses.

[kaysea]

JG

 

I just purchased an 04rt and both valve covers had some deep gouges in them. After removing the covers, I first used some 150 grit sandpaper to sand down any high spots. Then went to 220 grit to scuff the surrounding area to be repaired. Cleaned valve covers to remove any dirt, grease etc. Then I used a product called Marine-Tex to fill in the gouges. Very similar to doing body work. This product hardens like steel, sands like wood and can take heat and paint. After carefully sanding with 150 then 220 I painted then with a high tempeture enamel from Advanced Auto. The actual paint I used was Dupli-Color #DE 1615 and it seems almost a near match to the original color. The net result is the valve covers look brand new for about $15.00 and alittle time and labor. Can't guarantee how they will hold up but I've used Marine-Tek before and have been really satisfied with it. It should be available in most marine supply stores. Good luck

[kaysea]

JG

 

Forgot to mention that I removed all bolts and gaskets. Also used masking tape on the inside to covers all holes to keep out dust and paint.

 

Keith

[MGN54]

Pics? We need pics! I've got some gouges on mine from the PO that I might want to tackle.

 

Mark

[kaysea]

Mark,

 

I took some pictures and will try to post them once I figure out how to...a bit computer illiterate. I have no before pictures though. But the valve covers. one in particular, were pretty banged up. Once I priced out new ones I figured that it wouldn't hurt to try and repair them myself...if all else failed I would purchase new ones.

I'm pleased with the final outcome and I can be pretty anal about things.

 

Couple other thoughts on the repair process:

 

Marine Tek is a 2 part compound with a 5 to 1 mix ratio (10% margin of error) It is critical to get this right or the product will not set up...I found this out the hard way! My wife graciously donated 2 of her plastic mixing spoons for the second attempt. Mix thoroughly...there is plenty of time to work with this as it takes awhile to set up. I used a flexible putty applicator that I had from some prior auto body repair to apply. I actually cut it down with scissors to about 1 1/2" wide.

 

Make sure to do the sanding in good light and take your time. You may actually want to use some 120 grit initially to knock down the Marine Tek but be careful as this coarse of grit will scratch the valve covers...sand only the Marine Tek with 120. Then move on to 150 and final with 220. After the first coat of Marine Tek and sanding you will more than likely have to do a second coat to fill in any imperfections. This will probably be very minimal but necessary to get a quality job.

 

When it comes time to paint, clean valve covers with a paint prep cleaner first. Make sure to get between the fins as well...somwhat of a pain. Blow of all dust particals. To get a nice finish lay down paint as thick a possible but not so thick that it will run. This well help eliminate an orange peel finish.

 

I did 4 coats any sanded any dust particals, imperfections with 320 grit in between coats. I elevated the valve covers on a cardboard box to get of the ground. I also stuck the valve cover bolts in the top of a box to paint as well.

 

Hope this helps. I'll try to post some pictures soon.

 

Keith

[Rob_Mayes]

I had mine chromed after the scratches/powdercoating were removed.

 

Details: www.cyclecranks.com/BMW_R1100RT.html