front axle bearing?

[3par]

Being that I am mechanically challenged, should I be in a rush to get the bike to service if the front bearing looks like it may have "weeped" some lubricant?

thanks for any help

[Jeff from Massachusetts]

Being that I am mechanically challenged, should I be in a rush to get the bike to service if the front bearing looks like it may have "weeped" some lubricant?

thanks for any help

Not sure what you mean by "weeped" some lubricant. The front wheel bearings are packed with grease with a typical shaft seal. So unless you recently worked on them they should not show signs of grease around the bearings. I Think I would first try to thoroughly clean area and reinspect area to see if there are any other sings of leakage. You may also want to inspect for bearing damage by slowly spinning the wheel in the air and then check for side to side play...there should be none.

[DavidEBSmith]

Are you seeing "weeping" with the wheel on the bike or are you looking at the bearings?

 

As part of the front wheel service you're supposed to grease the axle before replacing it, and it's a common practice to throw a little grease into the speedometer mechanism on the left side. If the mechanic is a bit generous with the grease, it can seep out of the speedo hub or from under the right side spacer. I've seen that fairly commonly, whereas front wheel bearing failures are very uncommon on these bikes.

[Rob_Mayes]

I have a 2000 R1100RT and am replacing the front bearings. I found the right side is leaking grease. The left side is hard to turn and the plactic seal was distorted as if it had gotten real hot.

 

The parts used to control the speedometer are packed in grease, not to be confused with bearings leaking.

[LDHack]

Run your bike over to your shop and have them take a look. They typically will look for free. If they think it's a problem, then arrange for a service appointment. Replacing bearings is not easy, in that it requires heating the hub. I had mine replaced a year ago, and brought the wheel in. A mechanic friend recommended the same, since the steps are fairly BMW specific. The labor I paid was not bad for the bearing replacement, and for me it was worth the hassle factor.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Mike,

Not to be contrary but, no heat required nor is replacement a very difficult job. I can do a wheel in about 15 minutes once it is off the bike. Couple of taps with a drift and out pops the bearing, second one is even faster. With the proper drivers, installing the new ones is about a 2 minute operation. 20 minutes if I have to turn something to make a new driver although I almost always just use the old bearings.

[ianboydsnr]

I have never put my bike in to the shop, to replace the wheel bearings, they just drift out, if you leave the new bearings in the freezer overnight, then they fit much easier, heating the wheel is not neccissary

[LDHack]

Ed

 

Thanks for that information. I have replaced wheel bearings on my GL1100 and on other bikes that way, but BMW seemed so set on heating the hub that I decided to have them replaced at a shop. From your information, I'm sure I could have replaced them myself. Thanks again.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Heating the hub, as well as freezing the new bearings, will ease the task but it is not strictly necessary. The outer races are fit to the hub with what is called a line on line fit, meaning that the bearing's outer diameter is the same as the hub's inner diameter. Providing alignment is maintained, they can be tapped in/out with no problems. You can't force them in either direction, gentle taps around the circumference are the key for both directions to avoid galling the bores.

[paul6585]

quick tip: after freezing new bearing, use a socket from a socket set to tap in the new bearing. Sockets come in various diameters so you should have one of similar diameter to the outer circumfrance of the bearing (race).

[Jerry Johnston]

The old bearing works perfectly for tapping in the new bearing.