RT Factory Radio Connections

[Wing02RT04]

First, Happy New Year to all - may your 2005 be happy, healthy and full of great riding!

 

Does anyone have a scan of the install manual or a pic of the factory radio on an ('04) RT? I'd like to see the connections on the back of the radio - specifically the speaker wiring harness - before doing some mods to port the radio's output into helmet headsets via a J&M CB2003. I have everything ready to do the job but would prefer to see what I'm getting into before tearing the bike apart. Thanks in advance!

[JohnDC]

Greg, best for 2005 at first.

It's from Belgium, so in Dutch. But will try to translate.

geel/rood (+lv) aansluiting 1 in fisch

yellow/red(+left front) connected to 1

geel/bruin (-lv) aansluiting 8 in fisch

yellow/brown (-lf) to 8

blauw/rood (+rv) aansluiting 2 in fisch

Bleu/red to (+Right front) to 2

blauw (-rv) aansluiting 11 in fisch

 

van achterste boxen is hier geen vermelding, maar zal waarschijnlijk niet ver van deze verwijderd staan.

Rear is not specified, bud is probably near.

 

stekker1

bruin- 31 -massa

rood/wit- 30- 12volt

violet/zwart- 15- 12 volt na contact

violet/rood - +anz- voeding display

 

stekker2 (connector 2)

wit/zwart; bruin/groen; blauw/grijs; wit/violet-aansluiting voor display(Connectors for display)

bruin/blauw;blauw/violet;blauw/geel;blauw/zwart; blauw/rood; blauw/wit- aansluiting van stuurbediening

Connectors for steering switches

Hope this will help

[Wing02RT04]

JohnDC,

 

Thanks for the great pic! I think all I need are the (+) and (-) leads to each speaker, which I believe I can translate from your information. What I intend on doing is breaking the connections to the speakers and splicing in a new harness that will route the radio's audio output to the J&M CB2003. I'll let you know how I make out!

[KMG_365]

DUDE! That rocks!

 

From SC, to Belgium --asked and answered--in 35 minutes!!!

 

Is this DB some kind of kick-a$$ thing, or what??!!

[teecro]

Here is a picture provided by one of our members (Thanks Sig !)

This one is looking at the plug from the front as it would be when inserted into the radio.

 

 

A word of caution needs to be stated here.

99.99% of all mobile stereo units today use what is called a floating ground for each speakers output.

What this boils down to is that they (speaker negatives) are not common to chassis ground and you will run into problems if you try to join them together to feed a device with a three wire input that uses a three pole 1/8" stereo plug such as an AutoCom.

I am not familiar with the J&M CB2003 but if it uses the 1/8" stereo plug for aux inputs you will have the same problem.

 

AutoCom makes a cable that eliminates this problem but it cost $60 bucks.

 

If you are handy with a soldering iron and don't mind building things yourself the components in the print below can be gotten for $10 bucks or less.

A number of people on the board have tried this system and reported very good results.

 

[Wing02RT04]

Jamie - yeah, this DB definitely rocks! Not only did I get that reply very quickly, but it was the right pic I needed and not an easy one to get, unless you just happen to have a radio sitting there on the bench.

 

Mike, the J&M CB2003 comes with an auxiliary audio input (3-wire, stereo 3.5 mm plug) that connects directly into the wiring harness of the unit, OR (for an added fee of course) a five wire harness that includes speaker (+) and (-) plus a radio chassis ground connection that I would imagine in combination would eliminiate the floating ground issue. I'll let you know when I have it all hooked up. But thanks for the diagram you sent - it's definitely a keeper should I need to use it!

[Lyter]

teecro,

 

Any recommendations as to where one can find those resistors & capacitors? I haven't had luck in locating them. Thanks.

 

Lyter

[teecro]

teecro,

 

Any recommendations as to where one can find those resistors & capacitors? I haven't had luck in locating them. Thanks.

 

Lyter

Lyter the value of the resistors is not very critical. They are there just to provide a little attenuation since headphones, ear-buds, helmet speakers, etc do not require a lot of power to produce a decent volume level.

The capacitors farad value is but the voltage rating is not as long is it is rated higher than the voltage of the circuit it is being used in.

 

These links to Radio Shack will get you what you need.

 

Radio Shack Capacitor

Radio Shack Resistor

 

Radio Shack sure has changed in the past few years. They do not have as good a selection of parts any more. They seem to be selling to the general consumer rather than the electronics hobbies like they did at one time.

[Wing02RT04]

Alright gang, the job is done thanks to all of your help. Here's what I did, in order of install:

 

1. Installed the XM Skyfi Delphi receiver and an FM modulator to work with the RT's factory radio. Straight-forward install; there's room on the one side of the radio to mount the Skyfi's FM modulator "box" on the side of the radio and slip the hole thing back into the plastic radio housing. There's plenty of room inside the plastic radio box for the modulator's wiring and antenna jacks. Works great, tuned to FM 87.9 to modulate the XM signal.

 

2. Already had J&M's CB2003 on the bike, a great little CB unit with the capability of inputting an external audio source into the unit with amplified audio out of it via a separate volume control. Audio/CB is heard exclusively through a J&M headset. My wife wanted to be able to hear the bike's radio through her helmet headsets, since the dash speakers are woefully weak with all the windnoise at speed. J&M makes a wiring harness specifically for this purpose, J&M part number FGA-290. I tapped into the factory radio's speaker output as follows: FGA-290 WHITE spliced to Left Speaker(+), YELLOW/RED; FGA-290 WHITE/RED spliced to Left Speaker(-), YELLOW/BLACK; FGA-290 RED spliced to Right Speaker(+), BLUE/RED; and FGA-290 RED/WHITE spliced to Right Speaker(-), BLUE. FGA-290 BLACK is connected to the chassis ground of the radio. The connector with all the radio's speaker wires is easily seen when you remove the left side of the fairing. In fact, there are 3 connectors together in the same location and the one you want is the biggest of the three. When you see it, the speaker wire colors will be obvious.

 

Turned everything on and it worked great! One word of caution: be sure to tape the metal connections of the antenna jacks from the XM FM modulator with electrical tape. I accidently blew a fuse by allowing bare metal on one of the antenna jacks to contact the constant 12VDC on the back of the radio itself! Don't ask how I managed to do it...

 

My wife is now thrilled to be able to hear the radio through her helmet and to have XM to boot! If anyone needs any additional info on this job, e-mail me directly at gmrocket@sc.rr.com ...it really was an easy job.

[SMM]

Absolutely amazing, laser like accuracy in terms of providing answers to a question....I'd be way lost w/o this board ! (And I don't even need "this answer") Was an amazing thing to watch progression of from ??? to answer a, answer b, etc etc etc...... Most excellent !

[Wing02RT04]

Stephen,

 

You're absolutely right about how my first question was answered in such wonderful, accurate and quickly-obtained detail. I posted the associated detail on the install work, even though it really didn't have anything to do with the original message subject line so that at the info would at least find its way into the archives for the next "techno-geek" like me to come along to do a similar job! This site (and all of its participants) is awesome, without a doubt!

[Lyter]

teecro,

 

Thanks for the links. Yes, Radidio Shack has sure changed. More cell phones, computers and satellite tv than true electronics. I miss the old Lafayette?

[JohnDC]

One big family, those beemer guys. My guess!

[teecro]

teecro,

 

Thanks for the links. Yes, Radidio Shack has sure changed. More cell phones, computers and satellite tv than true electronics. I miss the old Lafayette?

WOWWWWWWWWW, now thats a name I have not heard in a LONGGGGG time. Lafayette Electronics!!!

Some where in a box stored in a a closet I have a catalog from the mid to late sixties when they were selling the Heath Kit line of build your own kit stereos, radios, etc.

Think I may do so box searching this weekend and try to find it. Flip thru the pages and bring back a few memories.

[Rottweiler]

Ok guys and gals, here's the best way to hook up a 3 wire device to a 4 wire radio. Since the ground wires on our radio's can't be hooked together, you must use a ground loop eliminator such as this one I found at Wal-Mart in their auto department http://www.scosche.com/scosche.aspx?CategoryID=33&ItemID=ES034 for $14. It is a simple set of 1:1 transformers (all in one) that will prevent your radio outputs from shorting. I hooked it up to the rear speaker outputs on the BMW/Clarion radio to give me better control of the volume but find that leaving the fade control in the middle works fine. In the picture earlier in this thread you can see some of the pinout numbers. This is how they run on my '03RT...

11 6 2

14 8 3 1

12 17

15 9 4

19 7

16 13 5

 

5 +12v switched purple w/black stripe

15 12 ground brown

9 +12v continuous red w/white stripe

1 left + front yellow w/red stripe

2 right + front blue w/red stripe

11 right - front blue

8 left - front yellow w/brown stripe

6 right + rear

14 right - rear

3 left + rear

12 left - rear

 

To hook up the wires to the radio pins I used the female pins from a PC power connector. You will have a hard time removing the pins from the connector without the right size pin-pushing tool but you can alternately carefully cut the connector open with a moto tool. I left a few inches of wire on the pins and soldered on a mating RCA plug, that plugs right into the ground loop eliminator. The PC pins can be pushed onto the radio pins right through the connector on the back of the radio. If you can’t get the pins to push on you will have to remove the main connector from the back of the radio. To remove the connector you will have to remove the radio from it’s mounting case, as the case prevents the connector from unlatching. Just slide the connector sideways (left or right away from the radio) and it will pry itself off the back. You can then feed the new pins through the connector and push them onto the correct pins on the radio. Then plug the main connector back onto the radio over the newly installed pins. They are tight, which is a good thing. I then mounted the eliminator in the bottom of the radio box and had the output connectors feed though the rubber gasket in the radio box. I then made a headphone jack with mating RCA plugs to connect to the output of the ground loop eliminator. I made a small aluminum bracket for the headphone jack that mounts with 2-sided tape just below the idiot lights on the dash, easy to get to and protected from weather. So far, it works great with perfect sound and no engine noise unlike the above mentioned circuit with the resistors and capacitor which was terribly noisy and distorted.

 

Of course all the usual disclaimers apply here YMMV.

 

Good luck!

[Rottweiler]

One more point about ground loop eliminators. I have noticed that several people have suggested going to Radio Shack for their 1:1 audio transformers. Be aware that the lower frequency response of these inexpensive transformers is ~300HZ which will give you poor base in you earphones . I don't know what the response of the Wal-Mart eliminator is but I could take it apart and see that the transformers are larger than the Radio Shack variety which means they probably use more or larger wire windings hopefully equating to a better frequency response. I can only attest that the frequency response sounds good to my ears. If you shop the web you can find ground loop eliminators or hum filters that run from $15 to hundreds of dollars, your choice.

[KMG_365]

I have to second what Rottweiler said in re: cheapo GLI's!

 

I have the AzAl's custom molded earplug monitors and have been really unhappy with the bass response on my SkiFi XM satellite radio. Sean Daly and I installed the radio with the Radio Shack GLI's to the Autocom to eliminate the GL interferance with the V-1 and bike to bike radios all being bike powered. I found that the EAR, Inc. folks also offered a Hi-Fi version of their "sport monitors" but they cost an arm and a leg and they don't recommend them over the sport monitors for bike/heavy use as they don't hold up nearly as well. I was right on the edge of just biting the bullet and springing for the Hi-Fi ones as it was far too frustrating listening to rock with NO bass, but I'm really glad I didn't!

 

When Leslie and I went to El Paseo I finally got to meet the brilliant PeterD (Peter Domenicalli), who did an absolutely AMAZING install on his RT. We were discussing audio mods and I was bemoaning the lack of bass that my set-up had and that I was seriously contemplating spending waaaay too much money to solve the problem. He showed me the fancy isolators he used (that he put on his own home-made circuit board and Autocom interface) and said I should plug in my sport monitors to hear the difference! WOWIE!!!

 

There's the bass response I was missing!

 

So $12.00 for cheapo RS GLI's and then $100's of dollars for fancy earplug speakers that don't help the bass AT ALL, or $40-80 for fancy GLI's and be able to keep the rugged sport monitors I already own and have the bass I really want! Sweeeeeet! Thanks Pete, and great seeing you again at the UnRally! Did I mention that I just LOVE this DB??!!