Trip planning; Denver Co to Yellowstone or Glacier National

[Grayrider]

While planning last years trip I posted on this site for route and dining advice. I can say that with out a doubt the advice that I received from here proved invaluable. So here we go again.

 

I enjoyed Colorado so much that I think that were going back. Instead of heading south west, were going to go north west. We plan on getting off of the interstate near Denver with a possible destinations of Yellowstone, via the Bear tooth and maybe even onto Glacier National Monument.

 

Feel free to suggest routes, must eat dining locations and any other advice that you feel like giving.

 

Thanks in advance.

[markgoodrich]

Lodging: any of the park lodges in either park will be a memorable experience. We've stayed at all of them, I think.

 

I'm partial to Glacier Park and its Canadian sister, but it's all fabulous.

 

If you make it to Glacier, it's well worth the effort to push just a little further north into Canada, to Waterton Lake. The Prince of Wales Hotel is spectacular, but there are also more moderate accommodations in town, just a short walk from the hotel. Many Glacier Lodge is another wonderful spot.

 

Glacier Park Lodge on the east side is the most spectacular of the U. S. Glacier lodges, but any of them will be fun; they're all old, so don't expect huge, luxurious rooms; the lobbies and grounds will all be wonderful.

 

At the other end of the Going to the Sun Road, on the west side of the park, McDonald Lodge is right on Lake McDonald, or you can go just a little further and stay at the Village Inn in Apgar, right on the lake, each room with a picture window, early 60s decor and style.

 

Kalispell, MT has the best restaurant in the region, Capers, used to be called Cafe Max.

 

Dunno what your timing is, but we spent a week bicycling Glacier Park a few years ago, the first weekend after Labor Day, and the crowds were gone, weather was still great.

[marcopolo]

If you're getting off near Denver, I'd suggest riding through Rocky Mountain National Park -- on Trail Ridge Road, parts of which are at 12,000+ feet. I did it last summer with my wife, and really enjoyed it. You don't say when you're traveling, so just make sure the road's open.

 

You could then head west and stay in Steamboat Springs CO (ski town with some interesting places to eat and drink).

 

If heading to Yellowstone, I'd stay in Cody, WY (try the Cody Cowboy Village; name sounds silly, but it's newly built and has very well appointed cabins). Try eating at the Rib and Chop House -- great bison ribeye, or the ribs, of course. If you're traveling in high season, I'd make a reservation well before you leave home. People are usually lined up outside at supper time.

 

If you head to Yellowstone, try an early morning ride from Cody on the Chief Joseph Highway (as you yourself suggested). Take Hwy 120 north out of Cody, then west on the Chief Joseph (Hwy 296?), finally joining up with Hwy 212 (you can grab a quick breakfast, and gas, in Cooke City). The ride is spectacular, and you nip briefly into Montana, before entering the park at the northeast entrance. You could head due west from Cody, directly to the east entrance of the park, but there has been significant construction for the last couple of years, once inside the park, though it may be finished by now. We took the Chief Joseph route, and left just after sunrise -- another fabulous ride, with absolutely nobody on the road but us. It also gets you to the park early enough to avoid heavy traffic.

[Twisties]

Well, I'll chime in on a couple of favorites.

 

For high end accommodations, dining and shopping, Jackson, WY can not be beat. We love Burkes Chop House and the Snake River Grill in Jackson. At Burkes I highly recommend the Beef Wellington, if it is still available. At Snake River Grill you can not go wrong with anything you may order. The ambiance of both places is much better after dark. Reserve several days in advance if possible. We stayed at The Alpine House B and B in Jackson. Food is great, service is great, rooms are pretty good. Great atmosphere. Jackson has great fireworks on the 4th of July if that is in your schedule.

 

The ride up from Jackson to Yellowstone is not to be missed under any circumstances. I love the view from the Jackson Lake Lodge. The Jenny Lake Lodge is by all accounts incomparable, though out of our price range. It is certainly worth driving by for the incredible views it also has, and a look inside.

 

In Yellowstone I'll list four favorites in order:

 

Mammoth Hot Springs, West Thumb Geyser Basin, The Old Faithful Inn (watch Old Faithful from the veranda with a refreshment of your choice), and the Yellowstone Valley.

 

For lower end accomodations, minimal dining, and no shopping, we love Pinedale, WY. The ride up the Cora Rd, WY 352 is spectacular, though the last few miles are dirt. I haven't ridden it, but based on cage experience, the ride up from Pinedale north past Fremont Lake would be a thriller. You can rent a canoe and paddle the New fork south of Pinedale. Incredible wildlife. Not a novice paddle, but nothing too scary either. We've canoed the Green from Green River Lakes down and that is well into Class Three, and quite scary.

 

In Denver, the Cherry Creek area is fantastic. We often go the weekend of July 4 for the Cherry Creek Arts Festival. Also do not miss the 16th street mall and Larimer Square area. If you like college towns run up and check out the Pearl Street Mall in Boulder.

 

We like CO-7 7A from Nederland to Estes Park, CO-34 from Loveland to Estes Park, CO-14 from Walden to Ft. Colins.

 

You might consider heading over to Vernal, UT and then turning north through Manilla and Kemmerer, if you have an interest in archeology or history of the west this would add two national monuments (Dinosaur (fossils, pictographs, Josie's Cabin) and Fossil Butte), a couple of stretches of great scenic road (coming into Vernal scenic, leaving Vernal for Manilla scenic and twisty), and a great small town square museum (Kemmerer, plus the first JC Penneys) to your route.

 

Have a great ride.

 

Cora Road, near Green River Lakes:

 

 

Mammoth Hot Springs:

 

 

 

West Thumb Geyser Basin:

 

 

 

 

 

Near Jenny Lake Lodge:

 

 

[Bullett]

Here's a link to Twisties' and my ride tale to Denver from SLC. The roads he described above in Colorado.

Linky

[BruceWA]

Couple of thoughts from my view....Glacier is impressive, but I'd avoid spending any time in Browning, MT. OK for fuel & food, but I'd keep moving ........Glacier is in need of a new name, maybe snowfield NP?

 

As others have mentioned, the ride from Cody north via the Chief Joe Hwy is awesome, but from there my prefence would be to continue north and ride the Beartooth Hwy into Red Lodge. Riding these two Hwys in one day is pure pleasure and fun!!

 

Yellowstone is really unique, but be prepared for traffic. It is one place where you canot be in a hurry, because you cannot count on making good time getting around there.

 

We were stuck in the midst of traffic last September in a large herd of Buffalo (while leaving the Canyons Lodge), among many RVs. We had several very uncomfortable moments, and several cagers were very amused at our predicament. It is very discomforting to look in your mirrors while stopped and see Bison running directly behind you.

[Scooterbrained]

If in Redlodge and you have the timing right, as it is only open on Thursday, Friday and Saturdays nights if I remember correctly, just south of town is hwy 308 and take it east across the creek between 6 and 7 miles to Bearcreek. One must visit Bearcreek Saloon and Steakhouse and enjoy a Flatiron Steak. The place comes complete with pig races viewable from the back balcony while waiting on your meal and enjoy a beer. The race is a bet with all proceeds going to scholarship funds for the local school kids of a town rich in mining and mining disaster history.

 

Marty

[JohnBryer]

If you're going through the Tetons, we love to stay in the cabins at Colter Bay. The restaurant is within walking distance and it's quite good.

[Grayrider]

Thanks again guys for the suggestions. All will taken into consideration. I'm a little concerned about traffic around Yellowstone slowing us down. At first we were planning on leaving the first week of June, plans may change and we may end up leaving the weekend after labor day. What do you think about the mountain roads that time of year?

 

Thanks.

[Twisties]

You should check Trail Ridge road in Rocky Mtn NP and Going to the Sun road in Glacier with the park service if they will be on your route and your departure is 1st week if June. All others should be open. All should be open after labor day.

[Bud]

Beartooth, Beartooth, Beartooth.

 

Oh, did I mention Bearthooth.

 

Everyone else has covered the rest.

 

If you ask me, don't miss Bearthooth Highway.

[BruceWA]

We were in Yellowstone over the Labor Day weekend last year, one of their busiest times. There were crowds everywhere we went. On Labor day itself, the park was almost deserted, with some of the facilities beginning to close for the season. Check their website for details. http://www.nps.gov/yell/

 

And with the Park being 8k in elevation, snow can become a factor even in August, we saw none last year, just some rain.

[MikeRC]

I was in Yellowstone, the Beartooth and Glacier third week of June last year:

The parking lot they call Yellowstone

 

and I've been over the Going-to-the-Sun in every month it is open. At those elevations you just have to accept that you may be delayed by a day or two for weather. Just be a bit flexible and bring cold weather gear.

 

Traffic is still OK in June or late August/September, but no matter what the month the ride between Yellowstone and the Tetons is slow, as is the Grand Loop road in Yellowstone (35 to 40 mph speed limits, RVs etc).

 

Mike Cassidy

[jslyter]

The roads should be fine after Labor Day, but be prepared for any type of weather. My wife and I did a Black Hills, SD trip the week after Labor Day last year, and on the way home to Colorado, my wife said it was the coldest she had ever been on a bike. We caught a fluke cold front the day we left Custer, SD. The temp the morning we left was about 40 deg, and it never got above mid 50's all the way to Ft. Collins, CO, where we stopped to visit my son at college (just as we were riding into nice weather). That allowed the front to get ahead of us and another mid 40's ride in drizzle all the way to Colorado Springs the next day. I'm sure Rocky Mtn National Park was even colder. My avatar is a pic of me at RMNP on a Father's day trip a couple of years ago.