ragtoplvr Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 02 R1150RS 43K Yes, I did a search. You were all so helpful with the crown bearing replacement, not having to remove the rear drive from the swing arm saved a lot of labor. Wondering if anyone knows about just changing the oil when a leak develops with something like the Bel-Ray 7.5 wt that has a seal conditioner to stop leaks. Alternate, add a tablespoon or 2 of seal conditioner to the existing oil. My only concern is possible effect on the plastic slider bushings. Right now my leak is minor, I see no knicks in the tube. Outer "dust" seal looks excellent. The long casting is good at protecting the tube. I estimate oil loss at about a tablespoon. Leak occurred on very rough road. My RS does not have lowers, I have discovered that it is a pretty capable dual sport mount, as long as you take it easy and use good judgment. I was just out doing the old where does this road not on the map lead. Not bottoming the suspension, but it was getting exercise. Some paved, some gravel and some rock and clay. Very fun. thanks for the help in advance. Rod Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 I don't know about using a seal conditioner...it might work. Changing the seal is really easy, though...if it is leaking, I'd just change it and be done with it. Link to comment
eddd Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 I'd replace it as Russel suggested. I did mine (both sides) in 1.5 hours or so. It is very easy. Link to comment
ragtoplvr Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 Ok Ok I just do not have the time right now to do that seal. I was hoping to milk it a bit. I have actually avoided expensive repairs using the stuff, I have a 1959 outboard that it keeps the lower unit mostly leak free, I had a Dodge Dynasty that ran another 30K miles after becoming almost undriveable from transmission leaking internal seals, was still running well when I sold it. A seal is normally NOT worn out after 42k it is possible a little hard. Unless another cheap $#&^$# has had success with this I will order the parts, not very expensive as far as BMW repairs go. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Ok Ok I just do not have the time right now to do that seal. I was hoping to milk it a bit. I have actually avoided expensive repairs using the stuff, I have a 1959 outboard that it keeps the lower unit mostly leak free, I had a Dodge Dynasty that ran another 30K miles after becoming almost undriveable from transmission leaking internal seals, was still running well when I sold it. A seal is normally NOT worn out after 42k it is possible a little hard. Unless another cheap $#&^$# has had success with this I will order the parts, not very expensive as far as BMW repairs go. Lisa's fork seal on her RS failed after a very rough ride on a road better suited to a dualsport than a 500lbs sport tourer. Miles had nothing to do with it. It's really a quick fix. And...if you don't have time to do the repair now, and it's just seeping a bit, then I'd just leave it alone. We went 6 months before I fixed it. Link to comment
Tominator Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Stupid easy to change...you could use a third hand though. Can be done from the top of the bike without removing anything at the bottom of the forks! Do both at the same time. Tomas Link to comment
flars Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Fix the one that is leaking. Leave the other one alone. Most NEVER leak, so why bother. Link to comment
Rob L Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 I replaced mine on Saturday.......40 minutes! Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Fix the one that is leaking. Leave the other one alone. Most NEVER leak, so why bother. I agree with that. Link to comment
RightSpin Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 If you clean your fork seals with a plain white business card, you might not have to change them at all. Just work a corner of the card under the seal and slide it around the circumference of the slider a couple of times. Odds are that it will stop the leak. Link to comment
LGannon Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 That's only a dust cover ! the seal is about 15mm below it, how could a rub of cardboard fix a leaking seal? Link to comment
RightSpin Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 You pry off the dust cover and clean the seal with the card. It's very common in the dirt forums. Link to comment
ragtoplvr Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 The no bucks fix is appealing. When someone says the cheapest thing on a BMW is the rider, I smile and say "Thank you". So can I pry the "dust cover" up with the fork tube in place. Clean the seal using a business card. Slide dust cover back down and tap into place. And not take anything apart,saving time to do all the things I have not done. Been spending time riding (petal and motor). Turns cold tomorrow. I guess good thing since need to do laundry and pay bills etc. That will work for me ROD Link to comment
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