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Whats it worth and bunch of questions


motoleo

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I'm looking at a 96 K1100RS SE with 8300 miles and in pristine condition. Black and grey with hard bags and liners. Has original tires and needs all fluids changed so I need to figure spending some money on it to get it up to snuff.

 

Whats is the going dealer rate for a yearly fluid/brake fluid/anitfreeze change on these bikes?

 

Are these desireable models? I've never owned a K bike so what are the pros and cons of this model?

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Dave McReynolds

I don't know any answers to your questions, but it struck me that 8,300 miles is awfully low for a 10+ year-old BMW of any type. I suppose it could have been ridden 830 miles every single year, which would be very good. But what if it sat around in a garage for 7-8 years without being used? I wonder what would be the effect of that on the motorcycle?

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Bikes and cars can sit around for decades and still be perfectly serviceable.

Soft parts and wet parts need to be thoroughly checked, cleaned or replaced.

 

So, brakes top to bottom, radiator flush and oils changed, tires replaced if dry or as old as the bike and gas flush if not resently filled.

 

Since it's pristine you are very lucky. I have revived more neglected bikes and cars than I care to mention all with excellent results following the basic guide lines above. Of course though most of mine had butchered electrics but that should not be a issue with what your looking at.

 

You might want to try a independent shop for the service if not doing it yourself and save a few bucks.

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With that few miles, there's a good chance that the clutch O-ring will have dried up and cracked. Check the bottom of the bellhsouing for a little hole. When the O-ring goes, oil will show up down there. (Smell it to make sure it's motor oil, not gear oil from the tranny input seal failing which is also possible.)

 

The good news is that the O-ring is a $0.80 part. The bad news is that a dealer will charge you something on the order or $700+ to replace it as the whole rear end of the bike needs to be taken apart. While it's open, have them replace the tranny input seal as well.

 

I'd also pull the little black plastic cover off of the front master cylinder to see if the master cylinder is leaking. Pull the rubber boot on the rear master too to see if that's leaking.

 

Aside from those potential issues, you should be OK.

 

It's also a good idea to run a half bottle of Chevron Techron Concetrate through the first two tanks of gas.

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With that few miles, there's a good chance that the clutch O-ring will have dried up and cracked. Check the bottom of the bellhsouing for a little hole. When the O-ring goes, oil will show up down there. (Smell it to make sure it's motor oil, not gear oil from the tranny input seal failing which is also possible.)

 

The good news is that the O-ring is a $0.80 part. The bad news is that a dealer will charge you something on the order or $700+ to replace it as the whole rear end of the bike needs to be taken apart. While it's open, have them replace the tranny input seal as well.

 

I'd also pull the little black plastic cover off of the front master cylinder to see if the master cylinder is leaking. Pull the rubber boot on the rear master too to see if that's leaking.

 

Aside from those potential issues, you should be OK.

 

It's also a good idea to run a half bottle of Chevron Techron Concetrate through the first two tanks of gas.

 

Thanks for the input. Unfortunately I saw the bike a few days ago and didn't know about the clutch or trans o-ring locations nor could I find the rear master cylinder under all those pipes back there.

 

The front master cylinder is leaking or just staring to ooze and no fluid has yet dropped on the paintwork or plastic.

 

I got estimates from the dealer on all fluid changes and flushes plus anew battery install. Came out to $765 including tax. Tires are original so thats another $400. Front master cylinder replacement is $303 just for the part and probably another $150 for labor. I'm looking at a over of $1500 if nothing else is wrong if I take it to the dealer. which I won't but the owner would have to so I'm using that as my leverage in my negotiations. The bike is clean but not pristine as there area few scratches in the fairing on the front sides but overall it should clean-up nicely.

 

The owner sells BMW cars for a living so he is going to be somewhat knowledgable. We'll see how it goes...I need another bike like I need another lung but if I can buy it at the right price and do the work myself I'll go for it.

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The rear master cylinder is located along the bottom of the right peg plate - right at the back of the brake pedal. It's got a little accordian style rubber boot which you can pull back to see if it's leaking.

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