Moving TB port

[Keith S]

Just did a TB sync on my 2004 RT. I find it amazing that a slight adjustment to the "big brass screw" (1/8 turn) makes such a dramatic change. The engine just breathes easier and the reduction in vibrations is quite noticeable. Removing the tupperware has always been a pain and to solve this I am thinking of moving the TB sense point to a place where the tupperware does not have to be removed. A plastic line to a barb mounted on the fairing or frame would make it much easier since the "big brass screw" on the right side is accessible through the fairing.

 

Any comments on possible problems?

 

Thanks, Keith

[Nevets]

Good question, I have had similar thoughts/questions/ideas.

 

I saw, (or thought I did) a BMW 1100 that had a cable protruding from the area near the big brass screw, and have always wondered if that person had rigged up a "adjustment on the fly method". They were not around their bike, so I never got to ask them.

[Clive Liddell]

Yes I have thought of it too because I very seldom remove my "plastic". When my LH knee pad came loose I thought great! Alas there is NO access there. I went to some trouble to make the LH toe cover easily removable hoping that this would do the trick - still the BBS is not accessable

 

It may be an idea to use long enough tubing to end up just behind the battery for easy left and right vaccuum access with just the seat off.

[LJR]

OK, but you still can't get at the throttle cable adjustment.

[Nevets]

OK, but you still can't get at the throttle cable adjustment.

 

Then make a new adjustment mechanism.... How about a cable (like a speedometer) where you have a worm gear on the end of it. The worm gear would turn a spur gear attached around the throttle cable end. Turning the cable would then adjust the throttle. Sounds like a good project for someone with a lot of time on their hands.

[Ken H.]

Sounds like a good project for someone with a lot of time on their hands.

But then that same person would also have the time to take the tupperware off, right?

 

Seriously though, to do a TB sync properly (not just tweak the large brass screw) I can't imagine how one could do it with the fairings in place.

[Stan Walker]

I can't imagine how one could do it with the fairings in place.

 

The '96 RT was designed to do it with only the left side fairing removed. That's why the right side panel has a hole for the BBS and why the little kick panel at the bottom of the right side panel can be removed. All the cable adjustments could be made on the left side of the bike.

 

Stan

[Nevets]

Well, maybe I'm the one missing the point. It wouldn't be the first time...

 

The original question dealt with monitoring the setting while the Tupperware was on. This certainly seems possible, right?

 

Second, if you wanted to adjust the idle balance/RPM with the large brass screw while the Tupperware was on, this also seems fairly straightforward. Obviously you would not be able to do it “right”, as in removing them, cleaning, reinserting, etc., but if it’s just for an occasional tweek, it seems very feasible.

 

Third, if you were looking for a way to occasionally tweek the throttle cable after you had adjusted the idle balance with the LBS, the (yet to be created) throttle cable adjustment gizmo I described above could be used. Right?

 

I’d bet if you could see that the balance was off via a gauge (and probably feel it), either at idle or at some higher RPM, and you could simply turn a knob to balance it out (without spending an extra 20 minutes removing and reinstalling the Tupperware), this would be considered a good thing by some people.

 

Please tell me what I’m missing….

[russell_bynum]

Given that it takes about 5 minutes to remove the fairing, it seems to me that you'd spend more time designing and implementing this "fix" than you'd spend removing/replacing the fairings.

 

5 minutes to remove, 5 minutes to re-install. So, you're looking at spending about 160 minutes removing and replacing the fairing every 100,000 miles.

 

Ignoring the fact that you'll have to remove the fairing to replace the fuel filter, replace the shocks, etc, that says that if it takes you more than 160 minutes to design and implement this "fix", you are coming out of this deal behind the curve.

[Keith S]

The purpose of my suggestion was for tweaking between service periods. I do agree that you can't clean the LBS etc. with the tupperware on. But a nice tweak every now and then would make the ride alot smoother.

 

Keith

[russell_bynum]

The purpose of my suggestion was for tweaking between service periods. I do agree that you can't clean the LBS etc. with the tupperware on. But a nice tweak every now and then would make the ride alot smoother.

 

Keith

 

How many miles do you have on your bike?

 

Mine stopped needing between-service tweaks around 45K miles or so.

[Keith S]

 

How many miles do you have on your bike?

 

Mine stopped needing between-service tweaks around 45K miles or so.

 

75,000 km (46,000 miles) It will be interesting to see if the same happens to mine.

[T__]

Just did a TB sync on my 2004 RT. I find it amazing that a slight adjustment to the "big brass screw" (1/8 turn) makes such a dramatic change. The engine just breathes easier and the reduction in vibrations is quite noticeable. Removing the tupperware has always been a pain and to solve this I am thinking of moving the TB sense point to a place where the tupperware does not have to be removed. A plastic line to a barb mounted on the fairing or frame would make it much easier since the "big brass screw" on the right side is accessible through the fairing.

 

Any comments on possible problems?

 

Thanks, Keith

 

Keith, you can do a basic idle balance & idle RPM set by either pulling ONLY the L/H Tupperware or pulling the L/H rear & lower Tupperware screws & plastic pork chop then reaching in behind the Tupperware.. As long as you have the original evap canister vacuum purge lines hooked up you already have a vacuum line running from the R/H TBI unit over to the L/H TBI unit.. Until the purge event the purge solenoid is closed so the purge line acts ONLY as a vacuum crossover at that point.. Even if you have the canister removed you should still leave the crossover vacuum lines installed as they act as a small crossover equalizer..

 

As mentioned above you can’t get to the throttle cables or clean the BBS ports but can easily do an idle balance & idle RPM set..

 

Twisty

[Nevets]

.... it seems to me that you'd spend more time designing and implementing this "fix" than you'd spend removing/replacing the fairings.

 

5 minutes to remove, 5 minutes to re-install. So, you're looking at spending about 160 minutes removing and replacing the fairing every 100,000 miles....

 

Only one person/company needs to come up with the solution, and everyone who buys one would benefit. (Wunderlich, Parnes, are you listening?). Would I buy one? Most likely not, as it would be priced more than my stingy budget would allow.

 

If you can remove and reinstall both fairings in 10 minutes, you are a better man than I. I do it infrequently enough where I still have to count the screws to remember if I haven't forgotten one. Sounds like pit-stop style fairing removal would be a good friendly competition for a TechDaze or such.