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Tires- do I need to change both at same time


ScottM

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My front tire is down to 2mm with sharp chamfers on each side of the middle. I can't seem to find an explanation for this wear pattern. The rear has 4-5mm and is only slightly squared off. Is there a good reason to change both at the same time or is it OK to just replace the worn front tire. Any ideas on this type of wear pattern or why the tires have worn unevenly.

Thanks.

Scott

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I rarely change both tires at the same time. Regarding your front tire wear pattern, when you get your new one try higher inflation pressure. I have no idea what is recommended for R1200's, but on my R1100RT I run 40psi F vs. recommended 36 and have not had any cupping on the last 5 tires.

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You don't need to change both but I always do. There is such a big dfference in the handling between new tires and old ones I always change both in order to get the maximum effect.

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It's unusualy to have the front wear out first. On my sportbikes, I went through 2 tires to 1 front.

THe wear pattern sounds like "cupping". IIt's common ot many tires, it seems that running hte front tire at 38-40psi regardless of load, helps somewhat.

 

I'd just replace the front if the rear tire isn't squared off too bad.

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You don't need/have too, but the ride and handling certainly will be nicer if you do.

 

Most of the time I run my front longer than a rear because most of the time my riding is a daily urban warfare commute and I don't care that much about ride quality and edge of the envelope handling.

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Being a little heavy handed on the throttle, and doing a lot of freeway travel both for commuting and to get to the places I like to ride, I tend to go throughh rear tires pretty quickly. Ideally, I would like to change the front tire every-other rear tire.

 

JT

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A stock Goldwing is famous for chewing up front tires. Before taking delivery, I replaced the steering head bearings, front fork suspension guts, installed Metzler tires and installed a fork brace. I also run the pressure higher than the manual suggests (40 vs 36psi) and I run the rear at maximum pressure (42psi). My Goldwing is about 300 pounds heavier that the RT. I plan on replacing tires around 8,000 miles.

 

I had the Ohlin shocks installed front and rear along with Metzler tires before delivery of the RT. I will run higher pressures and watch the results.

 

I always change tires together. The ride is better when they are both new. Tire expense is just another necessary part of owning a motorcycle just like oil changes. I never run the tires down to the wear bars. I want to be able to stop on wet pavement as well as dry. By the time there is 4mm of tread depth remaining, hydroplanning due to shallow channels to allow displaced water to escape can add significant distance (upto 50% more) to a stop even with ABS.

 

YMMV

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In my years of motorcycling (almost 40 now) and owning BMW's, I've always kind of went with the theory "2 rears to every 1 front", but that's just my personal experience and riding style. I've found, and my local dealer (Ozzie's) says run 'em hard, 37 front and 42 rear, regardless of load.

I'm on my second set of Pilot Roads and love them. Good wear patterns and reasonable mileage.

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curious, where did you get your statistical data on the 50%increase in hydroplaning?

max?

 

Probably from the same place most statistics come from.

grin.gif

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curious, where did you get your statistical data on the 50%increase in hydroplaning?

max?

 

can add significant distance (upto 50% more) to a stop even with ABS.

 

If you're going to pick on the guy, at least quote him correctly.

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If you're going to pick on the guy, at least quote him correctly.

 

hoo wee!

 

lmao.gif

 

Not sure why that struck me so funny.

 

whew....

lmao.gif

 

>> a man has 1 foot in ice water, and the other foot in a fire. So, on the average he is comfortable. <<

( for all you statistics fans. )

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