ABS "took over" for the First Time

[motoguy128]

Don't get me wrong, I like hte concept of ABS, and for 2-up touring on a heavy machine, I still think it's a good thing ot have. However, I was riding solo on a steep downhill leading up to a stoplight with washboard. The light turned yellow and I squeezed the brakes pretty hard to slow the bike down from about 35mph. I'm about 100 feet from the stoplight. My "POS" OEM shock has the rear wheel bouncing around os the ABS kicks in big time. I ended up stopping only 15 feet short of the light and for a moment I thought I was headed for the intersection.

 

I wish I could repeat the scenerio again without ABS to prove that I might have been able to stop quicker. It's possible that due to the weight of the bike and the road condition, that was the shortest stopping distance possible. I'm not so sure.

 

So, I still like having ABS for unknown road conditions or panic stops, but on bumpy dry pavement, I'd rather have a little more control myself. I'll chalk up most of the issue to the suspension.

 

I will admit, I've had the same situation on that road on a KLX250S dual sport and it was still a long stop, but it's long travel suspension handled it a little better I think.

 

I have my first long muti-day trip tommorrow. Hopefully I won't have to find out how well it works again on backroads in WI in the middle of nowhere.

[John in VA]

Get some decent shocks asap.

[duckbubbles]

My biggest gripe about BMW ABS is that it kicks in too soon for my tastes. A normal stop on a washboard surface may energize the system. From almost 40 years without, I say "what the hell is going on?" when that happens. A lot more drama than is called for.

I think the system is great in sketchy traction circumstances.

 

Frank

[MadDuck]

My ABS system worked better for me when I always initiated braking with the rear brake first. Don't really know why it matters but mine was much more prdictable when braking first with the rear brake. That computer may want actions to proceed in a different order than what you're used to.

 

It is something that is easy to try and as far as I know it can't be any worse than your current process.

[Dave Glen]

BMW gave me a warning notice with the bike documentation warning of the problem with the ABS cutting in when braking on downhill corrugated surfaces.

 

Dave the Bastard

St Arnaud, Victoria, Australia.

[Ken H.]

Sure, but even without ABS with the suspension bouncing the rear end into the air you're not going to have much stopping power then ether, right? It's hard to stop a bike, regardless of the system, when the wheel isn't (continuously) touching the ground!

[SageRider]

Sure, but even without ABS with the suspension bouncing the rear end into the air you're not going to have much stopping power then ether, right? It's hard to stop a bike, regardless of the system, when the wheel isn't (continuously) touching the ground!

Depends on whether or not the ABS system is also releasing the front brake (aka Anti-stoppie). This always was an issue on my 1100, but I don't have the road surfaces to test it up here in Nevada to see if my 1200 reacts the same way.

Non-ABS, my rear could be bouncing all over the place and it would have little impact on my front braking.

[Switz]

Last night the pavement was bone dry and I was a bit tardy reacting to the light change. A good grip on the brakes and I felt the ABS kick in. Glad it works.

 

I just wish my H-Ds had ABS. It is very easy to lockup the rear wheel! No more H-Ds for me. But that is another thread.

[Rich06FJR1300]

HD is coming out with ABS for 2008

[russell_bynum]

It is very easy to lockup the rear wheel! No more H-Ds for me. But that is another thread.

 

Rear wheel lockup isn't a big deal. Just feather the brake back off until you regain grip. Or...just leave the damn thing locked. It doesn't provide much stopping power anyway, and you can easily steer with the rear locked.

 

I have no concerns about my ability to deal with rear wheel lockup (or the consequences if I don't). Front wheel lockup is what worries me.

[Lawman]

I was on my 05 Ultra Classic in a very tight righthand curve when a car appeared as if it was about to enter the roadway midway into the curve from a dirt road on the right. It appeared instantly and I panicked. Had it not have stopped we would have collided. The driver saw me in time to stop very abruptly just at the edge of the pavement. I was traveling approx. 35 m.p.h. I locked the rear wheel and of course the back of the bike began to pass me on the left I took my foot off the brake and when it straightened up it was quite violent almost pitching me off like a bunking bronc..I managed to stay up, miss the car and get home but I did notice a foul odor about my person..I decided then and there that I was not good enough to ride a bike without ABS hence the 05 RT..

 

In that situation I'm not sure what the RT would do and hope not to ever find out..

[russell_bynum]

I decided then and there that I was not good enough to ride a bike without ABS hence the 05 RT..

 

In that situation I'm not sure what the RT would do and hope not to ever find out..

 

If you don't know what an ABS-equipped bike would do in that situation, then why does it make you feel more comfortable to have ABS?

[Lawman]

I decided then and there that I was not good enough to ride a bike without ABS hence the 05 RT..

 

In that situation I'm not sure what the RT would do and hope not to ever find out..

 

If you don't know what an ABS-equipped bike would do in that situation, then why does it make you feel more comfortable to have ABS?

 

Because even though I was on a sharp curve I believe the ABS would still probably have activated thus preventing rear wheel lockup.

[russell_bynum]

Because even though I was on a sharp curve I believe the ABS would still probably have activated thus preventing rear wheel lockup.

 

That's pretty much just pure speculation, but hey...whatever makes you feel better.

[Axe]

Do you practice your maximum braking techniques in a parking lot? It has become a part of my parking lot practice routine. Quick stop practice from even 20 mph will train you on how much braking effort is required to stop without lock up and/or give you a feel for how your ABS will react when applying panic stop pressure. Start out slow, say 12 mph and work up to faster speeds. It is difficult to think of anything much more important than knowing you and your motorcycles stopping capabilities and how it reacts to panic braking pressure.

 

I happen to believe the rear brake is the most dangerous control, if used improperly, on a motorcycle. About the worse thing you can do is release pressure on a locked rear wheel. It is the quickest way I know of an introduction to a "High Side" You may be able to get away with it on dirt or low traction surfaces however, on asphalt releasing the rear brake on an out of aligned skidding motorcycle will cause the motorcycle to align itself in a quick and violent manner. As stated by others the best method to handle a rear tire skid is to keep your head and eyes up center your weight on the bike and just ride it out. Conversely a locked front tire will cause immediate loss of balance and control and should be released immediately. Leaving the front tire locked will almost always result in a "Low Side" fall.

[russell_bynum]

I happen to believe the rear brake is the most dangerous control, if used improperly, on a motorcycle. About the worse thing you can do is release pressure on a locked rear wheel. It is the quickest way I know of an introduction to a "High Side" You may be able to get away with it on dirt or low traction surfaces however, on asphalt releasing the rear brake on an out of aligned skidding motorcycle will cause the motorcycle to align itself in a quick and violent manner. As stated by others the best method to handle a rear tire skid is to keep your head and eyes up center your weight on the bike and just ride it out.

 

I disagree. The problem is, as you stated, if you release the brake with the rear out of line with the front, then it can suddenly hook up and send the rider into low Earth orbit. That's a bad deal.

 

But, you can steer the sliding rear wheel with bar pressure, to get get back behind you where it belongs. Then just ease rear brake pressure (don't suddenly release it...ease it off) until traction is regained. No big deal.

[motoguy128]

Since the brakes are linked anyway, I don't see much point is using the rear brake pedal except the hold the bike on a hill or at low speeds. Besides the boxer motor has som much compression braking anyway. I'd rather keep the balls of my feet on the pegs where I feel like I have more control and feedback.

 

I had a new... more positive experience with ABS on our most recent trip. Actually I think I took advantage of it, which is a little dangerous. I decided at the last minute while traveling at about 50mph, to pull off the road into a little gravel pull off to get a picture of my wife and I in front of this lake. There was a car behind me so I left the roadway still doing at least 20mph and kept on the brakes to get it slowed on the gravel allowing the ABS to do it's job. I got it slowed down about 15 feet short of some bushes. It was a PITA to get the bike turned around (loaded with luggage, seat in high position, with only 5'11" rider). I almost got off to push it over some ruts, and made my wife get off. I then had to ride over some ruts with the steering wheel near full lock and my toes barely touching the ground going over the rut. It was sketchy.

 

One of these days I'm going to drop her doing the bone-headed over-confident crap I pull on gravel. I think I confuse my RT with a fully faired GS sometimes. Although I sometimes think a skid plate, extended fendors paint protectors on the front of the side cases and crash bars along with a GS spec 19 front wheel with Anakees front and rear might not be bad for some trips. Add 1/2" more suspension travel for good measure. I acutally metioned this to my dealer once and got a wierd look. A R1200GST?

[russell_bynum]

Since the brakes are linked anyway, I don't see much point is using the rear brake pedal except the hold the bike on a hill or at low speeds. Besides the boxer motor has som much compression braking anyway. I'd rather keep the balls of my feet on the pegs where I feel like I have more control and feedback.

 

The point of using the rear brake even though you have linked brakes is to stay in the habit of riding correctly so that when you ride a bike that doesn't have linked brakes, you will still know how to ride.

[IanW]

Since the brakes are linked anyway, I don't see much point is using the rear brake pedal except the hold the bike on a hill or at low speeds. Besides the boxer motor has som much compression braking anyway. I'd rather keep the balls of my feet on the pegs where I feel like I have more control and feedback.

 

I had a new... more positive experience with ABS on our most recent trip. Actually I think I took advantage of it, which is a little dangerous. I decided at the last minute while traveling at about 50mph, to pull off the road into a little gravel pull off to get a picture of my wife and I in front of this lake. There was a car behind me so I left the roadway still doing at least 20mph and kept on the brakes to get it slowed on the gravel allowing the ABS to do it's job. I got it slowed down about 15 feet short of some bushes. It was a PITA to get the bike turned around (loaded with luggage, seat in high position, with only 5'11" rider). I almost got off to push it over some ruts, and made my wife get off. I then had to ride over some ruts with the steering wheel near full lock and my toes barely touching the ground going over the rut. It was sketchy.

 

One of these days I'm going to drop her doing the bone-headed over-confident crap I pull on gravel. I think I confuse my RT with a fully faired GS sometimes. Although I sometimes think a skid plate, extended fendors paint protectors on the front of the side cases and crash bars along with a GS spec 19 front wheel with Anakees front and rear might not be bad for some trips. Add 1/2" more suspension travel for good measure. I acutally metioned this to my dealer once and got a wierd look. A R1200GST?

 

Mike

The brakes on your bike are not fully linked, the front lever works both brakes (front and rear), but the foot pedal controls the rear only. I use the foot pedal (rear brake only) for slow speed maneuvering.

 

Ian

[paulcbrowne]

If you have been off paved roads much you learn that the rear brake is your friend. Even with ABS, you don't want the front brake grabbing. Gravel, grass, or other loose surfaces don't work well with ABS on the front brake. GSs have a switch to kill the ABS in these conditions. On an RT, use the rear brake only on loose surfaces (of course, that assumes you're speed is proportional to conditions). I find nyself on gravel often where I live and I ususally rely on only the rear brake and moderate speed to stay upright.

[motoguy128]

Get some decent shocks asap.

 

There's better things I could spend $1500 on. I can wait a year or 2 until the orginals start wearing out.

[John in VA]

Get some decent shocks asap.

 

There's better things I could spend $1500 on. I can wait a year or 2 until the orginals start wearing out.

 

More like $1250.