Arizona_oldguy Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Does anyone have, or sell, step by step for removing fairing stuff from around fuel tank so I can run wires and also access the air filter. I am certain that some pieces need to come off first, and that there are some screws that will be well hidden. Glenn Link to comment
Nitrox Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Piece of cake: Left side (as sitting on the bike): 2 in the front, access from wheel side. 2 others that need removed, 1 under console, one on left downward area (top one only). Not real descriptive, but you can't miss it. This piece slides off, if you have the radio and access. outlet, remove the wiring by pinching the harness. Same for outer piece on right side, except no radio. Now, take out the four screws holding in the tank bag rack (seat must be off). For the big piece, on the left: 3 at bottom by footpegs. 2 long ones on the front side. One under the seat area. 2 under the tank bag bracket. 1 Plastic turny thing. On the right side, same thing, other than you need to deal with the glove box lid. Strait forward there. Those 2 lift off, and you are good to go. Link to comment
Arizona_oldguy Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 Thanks Jason, I would have started at the bottom with the silver colored pieces and tried to work up. Glenn Link to comment
AZRTRDR Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Remember, the two shortest #25 screws go into the hinge side and hold the glove box lid on. All other #25 screws are the same length. Lay or hang the plastic panels well away from the work area so that they don't accidentally get kick or stepped on. DAMHIK.. Link to comment
Artee Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Worth printing and keeping this page. Thanks guys. lb Link to comment
gettysburg Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Remember, the two shortest #25 screws go into the hinge side and hold the glove box lid on. All other #25 screws are the same length. I took a red Sharpie and marked the heads of the glove-box screws so they're easier to spot during re-assembly. Link to comment
hopz Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Just to build on the thread... is there a special tool or technique to remove the plastic "screws" from around the oil cooler shroud? Or do you just pry them off and throw away then replace them after removing? Link to comment
humboldt Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 you shouldnt need to remove any plastic screwsa to pull off the front plastic - once you remove the windscreen and clips for the windscreen bracket, there are about six screws you need to remove, all surrounded by rubber grommets, then the frent part, headlight and all will pop off. hae a friend hold the spring-loaded windcreen brackets out of the way fgor you while you do this. good directions are here: http://touratech-usa.com/docs/09-047-0120-1.PDF Link to comment
gettysburg Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 Those "plastic screws" are actually expanding rivets. You can use a flat-blade screw driver to pry the pin out of the bushing and then pry the bushing out of the hole. But like humboldt said, there shouldn't be a reason to remove the shroud. Even if you remove the expanding rivets, there is a screw holding the shroud inplace from behind the headlght assembly. Link to comment
AZRTRDR Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Remember, the two shortest #25 screws go into the hinge side and hold the glove box lid on. All other #25 screws are the same length. I took a red Sharpie and marked the heads of the glove-box screws so they're easier to spot during re-assembly. I wasn't that smart. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.