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Hella FF50 install questions


Dr Klawn

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Since my bike has been down for a while now waiting on a tranny rebuild, I've been adding and fixing other pieces / parts and just got to adding some driving lights. So, a few of questions on the FF50 install:

 

1. The instructions do not indicate any type of inline fuse for these and I plan on running them through a centec fuse block - Anyone know what amperage? I couldn't find any referenced in the instructions, box, etc. other than the included relay is 30amps. Or should no fuse be needed?

 

2. The instructions call for the grounds from the lamps and swtich to be combined and grounded "locally" (near the source of wire). Can all of these grounds be combined? (I'd assume that these can hooked back to the grounding side of the fuse block together...)

 

3. I'm planning on having the lights hooked to a switched source for power (so they can't accidentally be left on), with a seperate switch at the handlebars (with an included relay). Does the wiring to the switch need to match the wiring to the lamps or can it be thin (to the relay)?

 

Thanks for the help!

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I'll give this a shot.. I have the FF50 on my 1150-GSA

 

1.- You need to have a fuse somewhere- I used a fuse block where the FF50, Micro DE Fog, Radar, GPS, Autocom, and Ipod all get powered and fused. I think you will need a 25 amp fuse. I had a 20 on the Micro DE but it kept blowing. Put a 25 in this week and it seems fine.- but I carry a 30 just in case.

 

3.- I think you can use one ground. Being a little paranoid, I ran 2- wire system and all the grounds come back to the fuse block which has a ground strip. I think you could ground all the FF50 grounds and then run back. Some one in times past felt that BMW was tough to ground via the frame.???

 

3. Wiring to switch on handlebars can be pretty small. The wiring Hella sends with these is likely in the 20 AWG range.

 

I have my FF50's relay triggered off the HIGH beams and also have the handlebar switch. This way, when I hit the HIGH beams, the FF50 comes on- unless I have them off. The reason behind this is that when approaching traffic at night, I only have to dim the HIGHs and the FF50 follows along. NICE..

 

My Micro DE Fogs are on a Euro switch.

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1) Just run it off a 30 amp fuse off the Centech.

 

2) You can combine the ground leads in whatever manner is convenient. The switch ground doesn't have to be run back to the Centech if you have ground nearer its mounting spot.

 

3) The wiring to the switch and from the switch to the relay can be thinner (like 18-20 gauge). The wiring from the Centech to the relay, and from the relay to the lights, as well as from the light ground to whatever ground you use (Centech or other), needs to be beefy like 12 gauge for both lights or if each lamp has its own wire 14 gauge.

 

 

 

This is assuming 55W bulbs. Do a little double checking on sizes, this is from memory.

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1) Just run it off a 30 amp fuse off the Centech.

 

That's what I was thinking. The Centec has a 60amp max load, so the lights would take half, with the gerbings leads at 15amps ea. taking the rest. (I ride two -up often). So that would leave out my headlight relay, autocom, and future GPS lead option.... Maybe I'll just run the headlight and hella leads direct to the battery, and save the fuse block for the minor stuff.

 

2) You can combine the ground leads in whatever manner is convenient. The switch ground doesn't have to be run back to the Centech if you have ground nearer its mounting spot.

 

Understand. I'd like to keep it clean and also keep any electrical interference down on the bike for the Autocom.

 

 

3) The wiring to the switch and from the switch to the relay can be thinner (like 18-20 gauge). The wiring from the Centech to the relay, and from the relay to the lights, as well as from the light ground to whatever ground you use (Centech or other), needs to be beefy like 12 gauge for both lights or if each lamp has its own wire 14 gauge.

 

 

The light kit just came with a coil of wire in the box - no pre set-up harness or anything. I'll double check what gauge that is. I've got plenty of larger as well as smaller stuff for the switch.

 

 

This is assuming 55W bulbs. Do a little double checking on sizes, this is from memory.

 

Yup, they're 55W bulbs!

 

Also, do all of you run the battery tender cable only to the battery, or is it safe to run through the fuse block? It makes for a nice hook-up for SAE devices.

 

 

Thanks for the help!

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I run this setup through the Centeck and a 15 A fuse. I turn the lights on/off with a micro switch tied in to the turn cancel switch. (Cycle Gadgets has the micro switch)

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do all of you run the battery tender cable only to the battery, or is it safe to run through the fuse block? It makes for a nice hook-up for SAE devices.

 

Just depends on how many other things already run off the Centech. A battery tender won't flow much current to the battery, it's a trickle charger, but if you plugged in some heated gear to that lead, were already running your driving lights and a heated seat off the Centech plus a bunch of electronics you might exceed the Centech's rating.

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If you plan to power heated gear, FF50's and other farkles from the Centech, make sure you've got adequate wire size from the fuse block to the battery.

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