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Anyone know how to fix autocom lead?


RussInParis

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I finally traced down the source of the crackling and intermittent contact on our Autocom Pro-M1, and as I feared, it's in the lead from the main unit (the rider lead, not the passenger lead), right near the end, or even in the jack.

 

Any suggestions about how to go about fixing this? I'm fine with soldering, and I'm thinking the easiest would be to cut off the jack and put a new one on, but where could I get a replacement? The Pro-M1 is several years old, does Autocom even carry parts for it any more?

 

Everything else works fine, and I don't feel like trying to buy a whole new system because one part broke...

 

Any advice appreciated.

 

Russ

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If you're going to cut off the jack it really shouldn't matter what part autocomm uses. The important thing is that you're able to match the pin-outs.

 

Not sure what your pin-out is on your version. Perhaps the attached picture will help.

 

I found that for my 5-pin connections, I could use a 5-pin XLR male connector and adapt it to my need (cost about $3.00).

 

A Google search of 7-pin/6-pin/5-pin (whichever you need) connector should show you lots of options.

906643-Autocom-pinouts.thumb.jpg.70ff67987d625ec14133902a3d570b9c.jpg

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If you're going to cut off the jack it really shouldn't matter what part autocomm uses. The important thing is that you're able to match the pin-outs.

 

Not sure what your pin-out is on your version. Perhaps the attached picture will help.

 

I found that for my 5-pin connections, I could use a 5-pin XLR male connector and adapt it to my need (cost about $3.00).

 

A Google search of 7-pin/6-pin/5-pin (whichever you need) connector should show you lots of options.

 

Sam, would you happen to have any pin-outs for the Active-Plus unit? For the rider, passenger, and b2b 5-pin din plug? I am beating my head against the wall trying to rig up a custom setup. Also sent you an e-mail. Thanks in advance!

Bob

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If you're going to cut off the jack it really shouldn't matter what part autocomm uses. The important thing is that you're able to match the pin-outs.

 

Actually, that's a good point. Also, I notice that the 5 pin DIN that is on our model is the same as any MIDI cable, of which I have several. If I can find a re-usable (non-molded) female MIDI jack I'll be fine.

 

...as long as the bad connection isn't too far back, but I guess I'll find that out soon enough.

 

Thanks for your help. I've filed away the pinout diagram.

 

Russ

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If you ride solo just swap rider for passenger cable, inside the box.

 

True... but for us that's the whole point of the intercom! And I was really hoping to have it going in time for a little getaway next week.

 

I did fire off an email to Autocom UK (where I purchased it), asking if there was any possibility of buying a replacement cable from them, and replace it in the box, but to be honest I don't have too much hope this will be possible.

 

I was wondering if it was even possible to open the box (haven't tried yet), but your post suggests that it is.

 

Thanks,

Russ

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With nothing else to lose by trying, I would suggest spraying some plastic safe contact cleaner up the cable jack. If the problem is just a sloppy contact, it might make the difference.

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If you ride solo just swap rider for passenger cable, inside the box.

 

True... but for us that's the whole point of the intercom! And I was really hoping to have it going in time for a little getaway next week.

 

I did fire off an email to Autocom UK (where I purchased it), asking if there was any possibility of buying a replacement cable from them, and replace it in the box, but to be honest I don't have too much hope this will be possible.

 

I was wondering if it was even possible to open the box (haven't tried yet), but your post suggests that it is.

 

Thanks,

Russ

 

I'm not sure about your particular model, but I opened up my Pro-7-Sport and found that the cables were connected to the circuit board via connectors that can be unplugged. I did this to remove the passenger cable (actually, I swapped it in as the driver cable, since it's shorter) to reduce cable clutter in my tankbag setup. So obtaining a new cable from Autocom and installing it shouldn't be any big deal. The screws that hold the case together are under the label, so they will know you've opened it. Per posts here from Autocom Tom, just opening the case will not void your warranty.

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If you ride solo just swap rider for passenger cable, inside the box.

 

True... but for us that's the whole point of the intercom! And I was really hoping to have it going in time for a little getaway next week.

 

I did fire off an email to Autocom UK (where I purchased it), asking if there was any possibility of buying a replacement cable from them, and replace it in the box, but to be honest I don't have too much hope this will be possible.

 

I was wondering if it was even possible to open the box (haven't tried yet), but your post suggests that it is.

 

Thanks,

Russ

 

I had the exact same problem some years ago with my Pro 1. Autocom were able to supply a replacement cable along with full fitting instructions and a replacement label for when you peel the old one off to dis-assemble the unit.

 

Good luck

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Just to let everyone know how the story ended:

 

I contacted Autocom UK who said they still had some 5 pin cables, etc. available, but that there was now a French distributor, Toutec, that handled Autocom (and Garmin, Kathy's, and a few other brands).

 

Talked to Adrian at Toutec (a brit it turns out) who said he had some five pin stuff still available, and ended up ordering some leads and replacement headset foam parts from him. He threw in some used five pin extensions as well, saying that this was practically the end of the five pin stock that he had.

 

Yesterday, on the one sunny day we've had in the Paris area over the past week or so, we went for an afternoon ride to try everything out. After six months of no intercom, we realized how much we appreciated having this, and how well the system worked. (Where do I get those isolating adapters again??).

 

I had our iPod hooked up, but noticed I still have a huge buzz problem when hooked up to bike power. Worked great on batteries though, and we enjoyed listening to the music in our helmets.

 

In our four hour ride we saw some nice French countryside and two different castles. Although the Paris area doesn't have any mountains or real twisties, it still is quite scenic. The French sure do tourism well, one of the reasons I'm sure this country is the number one tourism destination in the world.

 

Anyway, it all ended well, and our intercom is back working again.

 

Now where do I get those isolating cables for the iPod again??

 

Russ

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