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Right Part # for TOP to Make Mini Stan


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A while back there was a thread reagarding the TOP part required to make a mini stan. Has anyone determined how you can identify the correct TOP for your perspective bike, short of taking the tupperware & tank off. I am getting close to my 12,000 mile maintainence/brake flush and I would sure like to get the right part.




2003 silver R1150RT

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Stan Compton


I don’t believe that the people who contributed posts to the thread that you refer to were ever able to provide an absolute manufacture date for the cutoff point between part #90886342541 and part #34517677998. However, the general consensus seemed to be that part #90886342541 was for 2002 models and part #34517677998 was for 2003-2004 models.

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Hi Carroll,part #34517677998 comes complete with hose and 2 caps.I have just made my mini-stan by drilling the centre out of one of the caps, welcome.gif making the funnel,from McMaster Carr, a very snug fit,no need for sealant etc welcome.gif

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My '03 (build date was 07/02) still used the old 'TOP' part. It would be good to know the build date of when the change ocurred.



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Stan Compton
My '03 (build date was 07/02) still used the old 'TOP' part.


Well, that throws a kink into the picture. So this is what we have so far:

Your 2003 R1150RT (manufacture date 7/02) old TOP part #90886342541

Bill's (rt4me) 2003 R1150RT (manufacture date 11/02) new cap part #34517677998


So the change in these parts must have occurred somewhere between the manufacture dates of 7/02 and 11/02. However, I’m betting the change over to the new part was sporadic. So we may never track it down to an exact manufacture date.


My bike’s manufacture date is 10/02, but I have not done a brake bleed on it yet and so I do not know which part it will take.



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Jamie, so far we haven't narrowed down which 03 models use the old cap and which ones use the new one. It seems to be pretty early in the years production. I'm looking into a cap that will work with both. I believe the thread is the same but they use different depths.


How did your rubber stopper test work?

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Keep us informed if you come up with a cap for both. I will check with A&S Bmw today to see if they can narrow down the time frame when the top change came into effect.



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I'm looking into a cap that will work with both. I believe the thread is the same but they use different depths.


How did your rubber stopper test work?


Ooooops, thanks for the reminder (I forgot all about that). I've not seen one of the new ABS pumps yet, so I can't compare it with my own experience. When I went to the local lab supply and bought a few rubber stoppers, my visual memory failed me (it had been a year since Les last did hers) and I couldn't remember how big the hole was. I bought a #3, a #4, #4.5, and a #5 tapered rubber stopper with a single center hole, just to cover all possiblities (they were ~$0.50 each). When I got home to do the bleed, I found that the narrow end of the smallest one that I had bought (the #3) was almost exactly the same diameter as the hole in the top of the wheel circuit reservoirs, so I couldn't get enough "bite". It would seem though that a #2.5 or #2 would work fine! The taper on the stoppers are fairly gradual, so it should make a decent seal, and the rubber is made for lab use so it should resist brake fluid and other solvents well. The hole could be widened with the right sized drill bit to ~3/8", and it would still fit fairly snugly (without the need for JB Weld even). Here is a detail shot of the parts in question for clarity.




The other two problems I'm currently having are:


1) Leaking of the SpeedBleeders around the threads. Perhaps I need to buy a bottle of their thread sealant to make them truly usable--especially on the control circuits. You can always just use them like regular bleed screws (closing between pumps), but then it sort of defeats the purpose of using them at all. I believe SB deliberately leaves the last few threads without sealant so you can thread them in easier without cross threading, but since the threads are so shallow in the M/C calipers, that doesn't leave much surface area to form a seal.


2) The BleedBag is SO convenient! . . . and yet it seems VERY fragile! I've bought two now and they both have sprung a leak! This really cuts into the "advantage" part, if you find yourself cleaning up leaking BF all over the driveway! frown.gif The advantage of a bag is that it can expand and yet still be sealed. As you can see from the above pic, I used one of the rubber stoppers and some of the silicone tubing to make a waste BF container out of a drinking bottle. The disadvantage was that it was tall with a narrow base and a hose coming out the top (very unstable!), and I had to poke a small vent hole near the mouth to vent the pressure that would build up, since the bottle is a fixed volume and cannot expand with the filling. This is also a pain, as if it then gets knocked over, you have the same problem as the leaky SB bag! Grrrrrr! dopeslap.gif


Leslie and I were just bantering about other options for the PERFECT BleedBag--which when it works is SO slick--quick and clean!


Me: "Well, it needs to be sturdier and yet flexible . . . like a hot-water bottle--but it would be better if it were see-through . . . "


Les: "Hmmm, you mean like an I.V. bag. You get plenty of old ones of those at work you could use."


Me: "That's BRILLIANT!" clap.gifclap.gif (By golly, Honey, I think you could cure a rainy day! [geek points awarded for the source of that paraphrased quote!] )


Now you guys know one of the thousands of other reasons I married her? thumbsup.gif

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Bill Dennes

Jamie - I'll bet that your speedbleeders are leaking around the threads because you didn't grind the points off the speedbleeders. I did a post about this a while ago, had the same problem.


The short of it is grind the speedbleeder until its end looks like the BMW bleeder that came out.



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Bill Dennes

Can somebody confirm my theory that the ...998 "Hose" has more threads on it than the ...541 "Cap?" I built a mini-Stan with a ...541 and it will not screw into my reservoir far enough to keep from tipping right over.


(This answers one of the questions in this thread: Both Hose and Cap seem to have the same thread.)


My bike is an '02, but the ABS unit was replaced in '03.

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I think the big change is in how the cap vents. Older ones vent out the top like what is shown in Jamie's picture. The newer ones vent out the side.



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Stan Compton
Leaking of the SpeedBleeders around the threads.
Jamie, Rick (CaliKid) also had a problem with the SpeedBleeders leaking around the threads. He posted an excellent discription, with pictures, of his experiences here. (I was not sure if you had seen this thread.)

Bill’s comment about grinding the tips of the SpeedBleeders down a little so that more threads can engage might be the solution. Bill’s post about this is here.

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Thanks for the update Jamie. I moved my office (day job) last week and have been immersed in that for a few weeks. After the 4th, I should be able to get back on the trail of the illusive "one-size-fits-all funnel".


As for the speedbleeder bag, mine is still going strong. I've used it about a dozen times and so far, no problemo. I'll be interested in your IV bag idea.

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Thanks for the insight (and the PM). For the benefit of others reading this thread, the trouble was caused by what appeared to be a very loose and shallow fit of the bleed screws when loosened to bleed, not when tightened down--though I do believe it would be a very good idea to do some grinding if necessary to make sure the SB is not bottoming out when tightened down as well.



Stan C.,


Thanks for the links and the info as well as your assistance with getting to the bottom of all this. I also had problems with using the stock bleed screws on the control circuits especially! Even when just cracking them enough to get the BF to flow out (and into the tubing), it also leaked out through the threads around the base of the stock bleed screw, making a mess. I guess SB's AND extra thread sealant would solve this as well.





First, sorry to hear of your get-off, but very glad to hear you and the bike are (relatively) uninjured! thumbsup.gifwelcome.gif We don't have our "Handy-lift" yet, so the bag lies on the ground, and doing numerous TD's, it just takes one person's toe on the edge of the bag over a small piece of sand and it is all over! I'll keep you posted on what I come up with!





Re-reading your excellent threads and contributions to this one topic in particular really makes me smile! Really good work! thumbsup.gif I can't tell you how much learning from you how to remove that darned ABS wiring connector at "sidetoside's" TD has lessesned the PITA that those control circuits could be otherwise! thumbsup.gif


But, you never did answer your own question about what you DID use for your "TOP" part!! Inquiring minds want to know! grin.gif Guess I'll see you in Cody and ask you there! grin.gif




Stan Walker,


If you're reading this (and I hope you are!), I hope you realize that this is yet another of the MANY issues that you were an instrumental part in getting going!!!



I just want to remind any of Stan's would be detractors: HE is the reason Brian, aka "rosemab" chistened his brilliant "Funnel-Thingy" the "Mini-Stan"!! And HE has informed and empowered dozens if not hundreds of us, not to mention saved us all countless dollars and even kept us safer on the road!


Thanks to everybody who has ever contributed good info to this endeavor! thumbsup.gif

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Bill Dennes

The attachment is a picture of my mini-Stans with part numbers for both of the "Caps" shown.


I made the ...541 one first for my early '02 RT. Then they replaced the ABS unit with a newer type. When I tried to use my ...541 mini-Stan, it fell right out of the reservoir, because the threads do not come all the way to the top of the hole.


The ...998 model is brand new, not yet tried. Looks as if the threaded part will reach far enough into the hole to do the trick.


Enjoy. smile.gif


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My bike’s manufacture date is 10/02, but I have not done a brake bleed on it yet and so I do not know which part it will take.


There is a way to tell.

Old tops use two drain hoses.

The new tops are "Teed" into one.

Now count the number of drain hoses you have under your bike.

They are under the right side. Under and slightly behind your foot brake. Four or five?

Five means: One for the battery, two for the gas tank, two for the brake modulator (old caps).

Four means: One for the battery, two for the tank, one for the modulator (new caps).

Take into account, gel battery - no drain (-1), removed canister - no change.


Jamie thumbsup.gif. See you in cody.


Also; I recently had my brake modulator changed to a newer part number, old caps were used and the thing blew fluid bad enough I had it back twice for low fluid warnings. I have the newer caps, but not installed yet. I had devised a closed system in the interim that I may leave on. Works great and will never loose fluid during a brake change.




P.S. It was a cylinder plug used in shipping Continental IO-540's. Keeps dirt out of the spark plug hole. Just a lucky fit, functional, not great.

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used in shipping Continental IO-540's
Putting an IO-540 in a RT are you? Sweet! Post pictures! wink.gifgrin.gifgrin.gif
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