Installing SS brake lines. Let me know your secrets, please!

[Eckhard Grohe]

I am getting set to install Spiegler SS brake lines and I would like to know if there any tips or traps in this task.

 

And then there is bleeding the bleedin' brakes. Top down, bottom up. What is the best???

 

Top down. Use a Mighty Vac?? or just pump them.

 

Bottom up. Use a Mighty Vac as a pressure source and pump the fluid from the brakes to the Master Cylinder????

[motoguy128]

I like using the mity vac as a vacuum source just to make it a cleaner process, but I still pump the brake and open/close the bleeder accordingly.

 

Be sure ot use new crush washers (should be provided) and DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! Crush washers will almost always leak if overtightened.

[TADIV]

Here's my experience installing Speiglers on my 2000 R1100S with the ABS II. For the later system there's a good .pdf play-by-play but it's still a PITA. Hopefully parts of my experience will be applicable to your bike:

 

Bleeding the bike required the patience of Job. During the time to get this done, I both rebuilt, resprung and installed a Penske shock and installed a slipper-clutch on an RC-51.

 

- Per usual, remove all bodywork and windshield. Use plastic garbage bags to cover the rest and have water and rags at hand. If replacing the lines and/ or you have considerable air in the system, you do not have to remove the tank to access the ABS mod. Simply remove snorkel and tank bolts, and gently slide the tank backwards, resting it atop the bike.

 

- Follow the manual. If simply bleeding from the calipers, really keep an eye on the masters. They are small and drain quickly. I used a vacuum pump which I have always found helpful. If drained, consider treating the bleeder valve threads with some Leak-Lock or similar. Otherwise, consider circling the valve with grease - I used Bel Ray marine for the ABS mod bleeders.

 

- If replacing the lines or the system’s largely drained, might as well replace the right front caliper grub screw with a bleeder valve. But be careful. Mine was loctited.

 

- It’s common to most bikes, but with this one air really likes to get trapped in the front master. For this reason I STRONGLY recommend replacing the master’s banjo bolt with a bleeder valve. If you don’t have one or are not drained, take a rag and wrap it tightly around banjo fitting, gently squeezing the lever while barely loosening the bolt until fluid begins to soak. Tighten before releasing lever.

 

- Speedbleeders: I generally like them, but since I had thought I might need to reverse bleed the system, and the check valve doesn’t allow for this procedure, I passed. I’m glad I did. I recommend one for the top master, however.

 

- I still had issues after the standard bleeding procedure so I reverse pressure fed, reversing the procedure and working up. I use a quality shop syringe and it works quite well. But be careful since this can spurt fluid or otherwise cause the master to overflow. I used the master bleeder valve, so no issue.

 

- Turn the handlebar and zip tie the lever. Tight. Overnight. Bleed from the master the next day. If need be, repeat. For the rear, I used zip-ties to hang an anvil off it.

 

Have lots of new fluid and be patient. I hope this helps. Good luck

 

Cheers,

 

t.a.