Missing 2nd gear on the upshift

[E30TECH]

I seem to have trouble with the shifter not going from 1st to 2nd. Sometimes it gets hung up in neutral, and requires a 2nd kick. This happened 2 or 3 times today within 30 miles.

 

The PO had the 6K service done <2200 miles ago. It appears that BMW 80w90 was used. Would different trans oil help this go away?

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Probably not.

The 1-2 shift is a little tricky at times on any bike.

Try a little preload on the lever and a quick "fan" of the clutch lever.

Most of the time, when I would get this happening to me it is cause I was trying to be to deliberate about it and allowed the input shaft to slow too much.

[E30TECH]

I'll give it a shot.

 

I was trying to be to deliberate about it

thats what happened 2x today....

[Bill_Walker]

What Ed said. Except that I'll beg to differ on the tranny oil question. I changed mine for the BMW 75w-120 synthetic at the 12K service and the shifting smoothed out dramatically. Now shifts slicker'n snot! But you still need to preload the shifter for the 1-2 shift, and it helps to do it for all of 'em.

[GordonB]

Also make sure you're RPM's are up in the 4000+ range when shifting.

[Art..]

1) Check to make sure that the shifter mounting bolt has not loosened up.

 

2) Did you just get new riding boots?

 

3) "feel" the cogs. On the 1-2 upshift, you should be able to feel the engaging of the synchros, and then the gears. Two little , distinctly separate engagements that you will feel with your foot. Focus on it........and after a short time your bike will have you trained to ride it properly.

[Ken H.]

engaging of the synchros

There are no syncros in a BMW bike transmission (or few other bike transmissions) but in principle you are right, there is two discernible 'steps.'

[E30TECH]

1) Check to make sure that the shifter mounting bolt has not loosened up.

 

2) Did you just get new riding boots?

 

3) "feel" the cogs. On the 1-2 upshift, you should be able to feel the engaging of the synchros, and then the gears. Two little , distinctly separate engagements that you will feel with your foot. Focus on it........and after a short time your bike will have you trained to ride it properly.

 

1: I will check the bolt.

 

2: Although I ordered new boots yesterday, I was wearing the same boots as I have been.

 

3: I will try that today. Hopefully it will have me trained soon. I feel like a dolt when coming thru an intersection and missing 2nd. I'm sure it is me though...

 

I'm assuming that when suggested to 'preload' the shifter, does that mean to keep slight pressure up on the shifter just before pulling in the clutch?

[Davis]

I'm assuming that when suggested to 'preload' the shifter, does that mean to keep slight pressure up on the shifter just before pulling in the clutch?

That's correct. With the dry clutch and no viscous drag, the input shaft slows down pretty quickly. Combine that with the longer throw to go from first to second and that is the shift your most likely to miss. Put a little up tension on the shifter then shift up as you roll off the throttle just a bit and fan the clutch about as quick as you can. Those three (throttle, clutch, shift) need to happen pretty much simultaneously. The missed shift comes when you pull in the clutch THEN think about shifting up.

[smiller]

3) "feel" the cogs. On the 1-2 upshift, you should be able to feel the engaging of the synchros, and then the gears. Two little , distinctly separate engagements that you will feel with your foot.

This should really read 'you should be able to feel the engaging of the shift dogs, and then the gears' but is otherwise correct, there are two distinct operations that occur during a gear change some number of milliseconds apart. Sometimes this can be felt as two distinct mechanical things happening in the transmission and at other times the events are close enough together to feel more like a 'crunch', giving the BMW gearbox its characteristic feel. But it is normal for these units nonetheless. During the 1-2 shift you are passing over the neutral detent so there is more travel involved, sometimes making this shift a little more clunky than others.

[E30TECH]

That's correct. With the dry clutch and no viscous drag, the input shaft slows down pretty quickly. Combine that with the longer throw to go from first to second and that is the shift your most likely to miss. Put a little up tension on the shifter then shift up as you roll off the throttle just a bit and fan the clutch about as quick as you can. Those three (throttle, clutch, shift) need to happen pretty much simultaneously. The missed shift comes when you pull in the clutch THEN think about shifting up.

 

That makes a litte more sense as this is my 1st dry clutch bike.

 

You are correct in your assessment of "The missed shift comes when you pull in the clutch THEN think about shifting up.". That is what I do

 

Thanks for the tips / help

 

Perry

[Art..]

Yeah, I forgot, it's dogs, not synchros.

 

Practice when you put the bike in first. If it won't engage, slowly let the clutch out (just a bit) and apply pressure to the shift lever, it will 'snick' into gear, and you will feel two distinct detents.

[Steve_Witmer]

Since you have ridden the bike only 2,200 miles, I can only assure you that you will get better with practice.

 

When I first got my RT (previous bike was a Honda) the 1-2 shift was the one I occasionally would miss and wind up in neutral. This condition goes away almost entirely after your brain finally learns how to shift the BMW transmission.

[Theophilus]

Perry,

 

I have the same problem, and have read about others having it as well. My bike is still training me, too. The "preload then snick" approach works well, but I have not developed the discipline to the point where it has become a habit yet. The problem is that the bike shifts fine without doing this about 80% of the time, so that basically wrecks my attempts at being disciplined.

 

I have 3000+ miles on my bike, which is my first motorcycle, so I have nothing to compare it to.

 

Ride safe.

[E30TECH]

Perry, The problem is that the bike shifts fine without doing this about 80% of the time, so that basically wrecks my attempts at being disciplined.

 

That is about the same for me. After trying what was suggested, I only missed 1 time (which was an improvement over the 3 times on the same route) I will continue to practice.

 

I figured it must have been me though

 

One other thing that I find strange is when shifting from N to 1. If I squeeze the clutch, wait a few seconds, then try to shift to 1st, it will not go. If I squeeze the clutch and shift to 1st at the tail end of the squeeze, it drops right in.

[Davis]

That's the same dry clutch phenomenon. When you wait several seconds, everything has come to stop in the transmission. The dogs don't align with the holes and it won't go into gear. If you shift down quickly, or ease the clutch out slightly after holding it in for a while, the input shaft is spinning and the dogs can find the holes.

[E30TECH]

So your saying the bike has character

[Ken H.]

If I squeeze the clutch, wait a few seconds, then try to shift to 1st, it will not go. If I squeeze the clutch and shift to 1st at the tail end of the squeeze, it drops right in.

Don't think / act in terms of squeezing, pulling the clutch at all. "Fan" it only. That is, a very brief, partial pulling of the lever, just barely into the friction zone, as you shift virtually at the same exact time. We're talking about maybe 20% of the lever's travel range (depending upon adjustment).

 

If you're pulling in the clutch, shifting the transmission, then releasing the clutch, you're too slow. The tranny will have already started spinning down, leading to missed shifts.

[E30TECH]

Don't think / act in terms of squeezing, pulling the clutch at all. "Fan" it only. That is, a very brief, partial pulling of the lever, just barely into the friction zone, as you shift virtually at the same exact time. We're talking about maybe 20% of the lever's travel range (depending upon adjustment).

 

If you're pulling in the clutch, shifting the transmission, then releasing the clutch, you're too slow. The tranny will have already started spinning down, leading to missed shifts.

 

I might do that only on the 1-2, but not as drastic as described above.

[CT_Rider]

+1 on the new boots. I went from nicely broken-in hikers to new Sidi Champions. Now I can't feel the shifter. This now forces me to shift correctly (at least BMW style) with preloading and "fanning" (never heard that term before, but it's what I do).

[Sidmariner]

Ain't it fun to be trying to get around a corner and then hit the neutral on the upshift? There you are leaned over trying to watch the intersection while doing a Lord of the Dance jig on the shifter. Meanwhile, you're slowing down and buddy in the pickup behind you is closing on your butt. Welcome to BMW.

 

After a year of practice I have reduced my frequency of missed shifts to near zero. Many before me have mentioned the tricks: fast changes, pre-loading and good toe work. I found two things that work for me. First, I make sure I let the shifter drop all the way down to pick up the second gear by exaggerating the movement of my ankle and toe. Secondly, when commuting in downtown traffic, I pull up the "choke" (really just idle speed). The increased revs mimic what some folks call "blipping" which prevents the clutch from slowing down too quickly thereby causing a hard or missed shift. This has made my shifting buttery smooth. Another personal habit I make is to set up my entry speed on tight corners well before the turn so I don't have to upshift in the middle. Instead, I can just keep accelerating through the turn and pick up the next gear on the other side. Bottom line: don't dispair, it will all come to you with practice.