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Electrical Quiz de jour


OlGeezer

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If your recall in my previous adventures with my ignition switch/wiring (click here for the thread (I hope I did this right), I had pinched wires caused by an overzelous zip tie machine in Berlin.

 

This time, the symptoms are similar. Unfortunately, I was stranded a bit further from home (29 Palms, 140 miles from my garage) and a lot more inconvenient. I was making a turn at a left turn signal when it sputtered a couple of times and died. I coasted to a stop in a parking lot and started looking at everything I could. I eventually gave up and called wife and tow service.

 

Here's what doesn't work:

Dash lights (turn signals, high beam, fog light indicator), fuel pump, RID, head light (low beam, high beam, parking*), fog lights, turn signals.

 

Here's what works:

Dash lights (neutral, abs, battery), clock, power brakes, brake light, starter.

 

*When the key is in the "P" position, the parking light bulb, tail light and my SmartTire device (which is wired into the parking light circuit) works.

 

Any guesses?

 

Thanks,

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Sounds like you need an electrical diagram of your bike. You'll probably find there is a common (+) or (-) wire that supplies power to those devices or a common relay that powers them up when the ingition is ON. I'd start with the fuses to make shure it's not a short first.

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All are great ideas.

 

I've got wiring diagrams. The problem I have with them is correlating the diagram to a physical wiring harness. But, I will give it an earnest effort.

 

I just so happen to have a complete set of new fuses and relays and I will swap them out.

 

My first suspicion is a pinched wire because I can see so many that are tightened way too much.

 

More than likely, I'm going to replace several wiring harnesses at or near the handlebars before I do much more riding.

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Common element is the ignition switch, or the wiring feedig it from the battery.

 

No 12 volts in will kill the load shed relay and prevent the fuel pump from running (two different outputs) from the same input.

 

Stan

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Common element is the ignition switch, or the wiring feedig it from the battery.

 

No 12 volts in will kill the load shed relay and prevent the fuel pump from running (two different outputs) from the same input.

 

 

Stan

 

I was afraid someone was going to suggest this. After replacing the wiring harness the hard way (I didn't realize you could remove it without removing the triple clamp), I did have some regrets for not going ahead and replacing the ignition switch while I was in there.

 

What leads me to the ignition switch is the parking light. It doesn't work when the ignition switch is in the "On" position but works when in the "Park" position.

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